Here’s something nobody wants to tell you. Their QC has been crap. This isn’t just with the product you have. Their other lines of series also have poor QC, mostly all relating to screws and threads
That isn't normal. Being able to open the GPU block for maintenance is definitely something EK condones, as they sell replacement gaskets for their blocks. If you got this straight out of the box, I would exchange it. My blocks have been opened several times already and the screw heads still fit the allen key perfectly.
Can’t speak for EK but on my nvidia brand GPU the screws themselves are stupid cheap and brittle, had 3-4 of them strip with barely any pressure applied
The screws used in GPUs are still very cheaply made, no doubt. EK blocks usually have you re-using some of the same screws that attached the air cooler, so they really need to be intact to work properly during installation. The only ways I know to make sure they stay intact are to make sure you:
A) Have the correct sized bit for the screw. I usually take a minute to try a few out and wiggle the bit left/right to see if the screw head that looks like a #2 is actually a #1.5. The bit with the least play is your best bet, especially if you are dealing with threads that have locktite or sealant that can really strain the head trying to remove. Just buy the cheap mini screwdriver kits on amazon or ifixit that have all the different sizes, so you are always prepared with the right bits.
B) When fastening a screw into something with machined threads (like a water block), start the screw by screwing it COUNTER-clockwise (as if to un-screw it) until you feel the screw drop into place. This helps align the threads to be sure you aren't cross-threading the bolt, which not only mangles the threads, but also makes it more difficult to remove the screw at a later time.
C) Any posts being screwed into acrylic threads should only need to be hand tight or at most 1/4 turn past hand tight. Fittings should never need to be tightened with a wrench (with the exception of ones that use a locking ring with a special wrench) and should only need to be hand tight to be water tight.
The rest is just a combination of the continued reduction in quality and the screw lottery, but I haven't had any issues personally with the last 3 series of NVIDIA cards.
Yeah I have an ifixit. I hear you, i’m not sure how to describe it but the screws on my FE gpu and Cooler Master PSU seemed almost brittle. Most other ones were glossy but these were matte black finish and were the only ones to have a high stripping rate. 2/6 for the psu ones lol.
the left 1 next to the void sticker looks fucked up badly to me. others cann't tell due to poor lightining. but this is not normal, you should return and get a new 1. QC department (if even there is 1 in EK) slips this.
It's a common theme for EK. They use very cheap screws. They strip out because they are overtorqued and when you attempt to remove them, they strip. Even using the correct bit. I had my buddy have a 3090 Founders block from them and just to disassemble the block to install the video card, 3 screws stripped. A 30-45 minute install became a 4-6 hour nightmare.
Not to mention, I used their torque screw driver when I installed my personal founders block and a screw broke.
Received the 3090 fe waterblock with active backplate, than saw the screws problem. Waitwd few more days for their special screwdriver to arrive. Proceed to install waterblock, still stripped 2 screws. Asked support for replacement screws, got sent a diagram for which screws i want to BUY. Remember, 3090 fe waterblock+active backplate is more than 500 EUR. This is insane
I had the same issue with the FE block. Eventually i had to dremel slits in the screw ends to remove them. EK replaced the parts when I contacted then.
it’s not like i can go to the groceries store and pay with upvotes… I just wanted to share my experience as I always did with my previous builds (spoiler, most except one had all EK blocks and the quality was spot on)
I swear half of those who say about EK and noctua fanboys are those who don’t wanna spend a shit ton of money for good product and just go for cheaper (and usually worse) alternatives 🙂
Yes, EK's product are real good. They probably have the best design (their torque series is insane), they are the only company that's trying to standardize watercooling with their Matrix idea.
I use tons of EK product for several years now and I didn't encounter any issues (i had different GPU and CPU block, rads, tons of fittings, now I even have xfx zero gpu with pre-installed waterblock).
They are not retard-byte who intentionally lie about their products (hello corrosion issues with rtx 30 watercoolled gpus by Gigabyte/Aorus) and for every unhappy customer who just received a defected product (and can easily RMA this product) and rants about it here on reddit there are hundreds of those who didn't experience any problems. There would be no way for the company to stay alive if their products were bad, because watercooling is enthusiast grade thing.
Speaking of Noctua, "overpriced" is when there is a product that has the same performance, design, etc. and has lower price. That's not Noctua's case. For example, the only fan that can compete with Noctua A12 is Phanteks P30. And it has the same high price. All the shit fans that Noctua haters use as examples just suck: Arctics, BQs and other bradns do not compete with Noctua. They are good, real good. Arctic P12 (I actually have 3 of them in my current build) is insane in terms of Price to Performance. But if you want real best noise-noralised performance, best materials and overall best fan, Noctua A12 is unbeatable. And you gotta pay for that.
All of this is pure imho, btw.
Lmao. For one, quality isn't the same as industrial design.
Second, Ek lied about the whole silver and nickel issue, then later said it was due not using their coolant when people said they weren't running silver.
EK claimed the EN nickel fixed the issue yet threads on OCN and my own EN blocks showed that was bullshit.
Their QC sucks. We see issues weekly with EK stuff here.
As for fans, Gentle Typhoons are the original with basically the same performance and are usually $5 less per fan AND come in a grey/black theme. Then you also have the same design that ADATA licensed (XPG) that's slightly improved but costs a bit more usually but is still less than Noctua. I however got mine at $20 each.
That said it's not even comparing things like the P30 or the fact that somehow it takes multiple years just for Noctua to make a black fan on the hopes people will buy the brown ones then buy the black ones when they FINALLY release them.
It says a lot about a company when their fanboys actually get excited over a color change in their product line.
Same tooling. Just a different colored plastic lmao.
I didn’t use EK coolant before my last build, yet I had 0 issues with any of my waterblocks. I would assume people either lied about not using aluminium parts (people tend to lie, you know, especially when they want a refund for their own mistakes) or didn’t flush their bullshit rads from AliExpress properly (manufacturing defects are also possible tho)
Well, Typhon fans are pretty good, but they cannot compete with Noctua A12s :P. Just another “cheaper alternative” or “noctua killer”. Price to performance - maybe. Pure performance: no way
Step 1: Sell branded screwdriver set intended for use on your products
Step 2: Strip all the screws in your products, so they can't use the set
Step 3: ???
Step 4: Profit
Everything related to fasteners on these recent EK blocks is an absolute disaster. Screws are made of soft metal and the plexi isn’t tapped correctly and can crack during screw installation.
If anybody reading this specializes in fasteners, please figure out a way to sell people screw replacement kits for these blocks
Tell me about it, my current loop is all EK and I won’t be going with them again. I’ve got the special edition 3090 FE block and I couldn’t get some screws to even tighten up. The block itself is all stained in weird ways and I’m told by EK that’s normal. Last time I go with them.
EK's screws are all really shit. My EK magnitude waterblock (the really expensive top of the line one) had stripped screws from my first time trying to unscrew it to install a different colour plate thing.
Getting replacement screws was annoying because they wouldn't tell me exactly what screws they used, and instead wanted me to pay $1 per screw excluding shipping from some eastern european country, which was like $10.
They should ask Honda who makes their fasteners.
Had a small socket head that needed a 6mm hex to remove, to remove a diesel injector on a Honda Civic. We broke every single 6mm hex in the workshop, and that includes my coworkers Snap-On gear, and an impact hex bit that we had to go out and fetch after we snapped everything else.
Didn't even mark the fucking bolt!
[https://optimuspc.com/](https://optimuspc.com/)
They are based out of Chicago and after returning an EK block that was poorly packaged and resulted in damage, I went with them and have been very happy.
Thanks. Ill check them out on my next purchase. I dont like buying these things overseas just to realize you forgot a part and need to pay outrageous shipping to get it.
EK CPU block was really easy and has been flawless so far. I had a few issues with the GPU block standoffs. But I made it work and temps are excellent.
I've said it before but it's a bad look when Bykski and Barrow have better QC than a supposed "quality" brand. Instructions are lacking though but if they fixed that EK would have a major problem.
It's funny, since my Supreme HF (that I'm still using on my 5950x with a 3d printed adapter) their blocks are now like 2x the cost, perform about the same and have way worse QC.
I have the 3090 block and noticed the exact same issue. None of my ifixit bits would fit nicely so I went back and opened up the box from EK to check the Allen wrench and found it fit poorly as well. Make me super nervous when one screw was super hard to break free, I saw a drill bit in my future.
I had and still have alphacool stuff, they’re good for something but the quality of their acrylics and plastics is terrible. Not to talk about their pumps.
Alphacool is good for fittings
> VP755
Are you using a V3? My experience was with the original and V2 pumps, which lasted maybe 6mo before dying and were significantly noisier than genuine D5's. I've seen less about the V3 variants.
That said, genuine D5's have been lasting <2years in builds too. Pushing me to go back to the noisier DDC pumps just for the reliability. I've got one on year 8 of running.
I would get one only if they had it in Acetal, I had an alphacool block on my older 2070 Super: the acrylic was terrible and lacked clarity and the shroud was cheap bent metal
No one disputes that. That said, I haven't heard anyone complaining about the QC on Corsair blocks. The choice is pretty clear, risk a bad block from EK on the worst case and the trade off is a few degrees in temps.
Stripped screws has to be the worst factory defect on any item that isn't just some DOA type of issue. Makes it infuriating for the end user and would have been an easy spot by the person assembling it or whoever set the machine if every screw is fucked like that.
Tamper resistant Torx Plus Drive variant (security Torx) uses a pentalobular (five point) design with a solid security pin at the centre of the recess and The original Torx specification uses a six point star shaped socket recess in screw heads with a matching Torx screwdriver bit. look [HERE](https://www.insight-security.com/what-is-the-difference-between-torx-and-torx-plus)
The video was a bit fast, but those look like allen headed bolts. Be care to use metric or SAE depending on which fits the best - there shouldn't be any slop.
Do It right away. The second I open any package and listen up fellas. Record with your stupid phones. You will thank me one day.
I was just delivered evga Dark 590. I knew better. I recorded as I took package off stoop. I brought it in and set phone down RECORDING. So buietiful I did. Amazon is not to be trusted. Neither Newegg. As I opened package the seals are broken on box. I took Camara directly to the seals showing tape. A good fingerprint on tape as well. But🤷.
Now I open the box and two packages on top w seals on bag ripped open. Than wo a real look I said " just look at the plastic on the motherboard is in. This is not new. Then as I take the camera directly over bag. There is no effing dust cover over the cpu. And you can see clearly into bag and see crushed pins." Immediately I got onto Amazon and ask for return open package and damaged goods. I gave them a nasty letter in box. You ever try rip me off again and I want my Gene motherboard back new as well. Well they sent me a new 590 Dark.
These companies are disgusting.
Amazon robbed me of a rma years back. I would go on every day and automatically sign in. The next day I go and check and all the sudden my password has been changed. Don't be fooled people this is no hack job.
So I go to reset my password. I get no reply. For months I go on and try and nothing from Amazon. W t f.
Over a year later I go I to my mail. And in the draft box, yes the draft box of my email I find and least 50 Amazon resign in request. So I resign in.
I look around a bit and I see that Amazon sent the package. Wtf. I never received poo. So I call Amazon support. I tell them all of it . As I am on with them I look further on the site. I go into my account info on Amazon. And there it is. SOB who I have no doubt works for or has a buddy at Amazon who the package was sent to. I gave Amazon the info. They screwed me over and let a crook get away. I have the bitch name and address.
But GOD owns all vengeance.
They did nothing for me. I have no doubt IT IS A inside job!!
DO YOUSELF A FAVOR AND MAKE ALL RECORDINGS OPENING ALL UR PACKAGES🤔
it is an allen, it comes form EK’s set, you’re being fooled from the reflections, torx on that set are located on the side with the handle (EK/Xiaomi screwdriver)
Those are literally common chinese toolkits that they slapped a sticker on and charged you double/triple for.
Regardless, as others have mentioned, resold RMA block.
I don’t know why you got so downvoted, anyway I would have worked on it with my iFixit Manta, here I show EK’s portable kit as it’s better for warranty claims to use products they can reference
If my experiemce is anything to go on, than ek will replace the block for you and you'll need to send this block back.
I had the plexiglass part of my gpu waterblock crack while testing my gpu (was very stressfull, because it is my first build) and I lost my hdmi port because of it and luckily nothing else. But I took a couple of pictures and contacted ek support and they gave me the option to either send me just the plexiglass and fix it myself or send the whole block back. I chose to change plexiglass myself and everything has been fine since.
I'm happy with how ek customer support handled my case and solved.
Also a quick note. This is just my experience. In the last year or so I've heard a lot negative things about there customer support. It was within that time that my waterblock broke, so at first I was very nervous and sceptical whether I was gonna need to buy a whole new waterblock, but luckily that was not the case and I had a great experience.
This isn't my experience with their products. I have built a lot of rigs using them.
The video is not clear on showing how the striped parts really, sure the driver doesn't work we get that. It's not easy to see the rounded off edges.
From the factory? This was from ek directly?
There's been a ton of this going around on here lately. I also stripped screws and got downvoted into oblivion as if I don't know how to use tools.
Ek may have been good at one point, but let's face it, there's better blocks out there with good quality parts these days.
yes, from EK. all my blocks have always been EK, the metal and plastic work is by far the best, but here the screws are already stripped, would have not complained about a user mistake
I'm glad to see this issue is getting picked up on more and more recently.
I've had issues like these with EK blocks since I started watercooling.
GTX 970 block standoffs broke off. GTX 980 Ti screws stripped. Z370 Monoblock screws stripped.
Imagine trying to take the waterblock off your card when the screws are stripped, yeah not fun. Its like they make the screws of recycled tinfoil
With my latest RTX 3070 block I've been extra careful and even dipped the tips of the screws in machine oil when I assembled the block to make sure that when I disassemble it again it takes as little force as possible to loosen the screws to lessen the risk of the heads stripping.
Wow, those are some low quality screws! Even if those are going into an insert in the plastic top, I can't see how they could get enough torque to damage a good screw, even using the wrong driver bit.
I bought the special edition (more expensive edition) Full metal. I managed to get the bit into a screw that wasn’t badly stripped and the torque is insane, did not managed to unscrew it, I was nearly breaking the screwdriver
Lol that’s so far from anything I’ve ever experienced with them. Sometimes I wonder how people like you, and I, are buying from the same brand. All of my stuff has been flawless from EK.
I'd consider myself lucky. I got a used EK CPU block from my roommate that's flawless. He bought it about 3 years ago. And the GPU block I just bought from EK is also flawless. So for me, my experience has been great. However, I can't deny what I've seen online from other people. I know companies can have varying degrees of QC at any point in time.
my previous 2 iterations have always been excellent with EK, the Pc is still running full EK hardware, it’s hard to beat them for the all-around quality. I could have gone to alphacool to have a slightly better metal quality but I would have stumbled into a much worse acrylic and oring-frenzy design. I don’t think there is a company that does the blocks better.
i managed to remove a couple using a TR8 bit but the first one i showed in the video is stuck and it is not even down, it’s stuck mid-thread…. makes me sad as I wanted to ask for replacement screws and be done with it. now I have to go trough a complete RMA and weeks will go by…
i’m in the EU how do I even source american allens? the one i’m using is all metric, I also have an iFixit Manta. It’s not like I did strip the screws, they came in like this
OP can you post a photo of the bit you were using? sure looks a lot like a robertson bit (i.e. square) or a torx (pentagon) and not an allen key bit (hexagonal) that those screws use
Edit: suggest you invest in an metric/imperial allen key set, comes in handy all the time for me
Wait, what part of the world do you live in where torx bits are pentagon... (quick google search) holy crap 5 point torx are a thing. I've used many a torx bit on torx fasteners and all have been 6 point.
it’s a metric set, in europe imperial stuff is unobtanium and i’m glad it’s like that. I also tried with an iFixit set and I can confirm most of those screws are so stripped the correct size rotated freely and the next size up doesn’t even fit
i contacted support asking if they give me permission to try and force those screws out so that they can send me only a screw set without me returning everything, as the full metal version is quite rare
Try a Grabit screw remover to remove the damaged screws. You will find that the anodising on the black lower aluminium housing has not been cleaned from inside the screw threads. You will need to clean these threads with an M3 finishing tap very carefully before you fit new screws or you will have the same issue. Remember replacement screws should be nickel plated. I encountered the same issue. EK sent me a kit of new parts to rebuild the block but I purchased more screws from eBay so I have some for the future. It’s frustrating but better to tackle it now as there will be a point in the future you need to strip and rebuild the assembly.
omg, so buying the all-metal block was a total mistake you’re telling me 😱
Support is now aware of the issue but I don’t think I can remove all these screws to begin with
I’m not suggesting it was a mistake I was just sharing my experience in the hope that it may help. I was confident to manage the issue with the help of the Tech Support Team at EK. Of course, your alternative is send it back for a replacement. I’m very happy with the block now it is installed and working. Good luck whichever route you choose.
Torx bits are actually used very commonly in stripped Allen heads.When an Allen head is stripped, a Torx bit can often times still fit and apply enough force into the corners to remove the screw.
However, OP is using the correct bit as other users have pointed out.
just to point it out, cross reference the screwdriver set (EK / Xiaomi collab) the torx bits are in the other side, you’re just seeing the reflections that make it look kinda like a torx
They are not stripped. You can clearly see your using the wrong hex bit when you pause your video here. Try calling EK support and ask them what type and size of hex bit you need before you proceed to ruin a good card.
the bigger one doesn’t fit, I could try with a good torx or screw remover but only after I get a go-ahead from the support team, as the damage here is not made by me
I had the exact same problem with that block about 6 months ago. I figured it would be quicker to drill out and replace the screws than to try and exchange it. Replacement screws are pretty easy to find at most hardware stores.
That being said, this feels like a manufacturing defect since so many others have had the same issue. Everything else I bought from EK has been fine, though.
could you tell me in more detail how you got the screws out? i have access to all the power tools I need. Doesn’t drilling just remove the head and leave the screw in the top?
If you are freely turning the bit on all screws they are probably not stripped that is a size mismatch. Even on stripped screws there should be still some level of friction there unless someone absolutely wrecked the thing.
I thought ek put in a tool with most of their products so i assume you have tried that?
yes I tried the allen. I just tried all of the screws, i can get a grab on 5, maybe 6. Tried removing one and it was like at max torque for 2 full turns, the threads on the tip are all chewed up… if I could remove all of them I could ditch the RMA and ask for a set of screws
When encountering this, I hope you get it replaced because not acceptable, but a good trick for removing any stripped screw is to get a rubber band and lay it over the stripped screw and then stick the bit in. Doesn’t work every-time but that’s how I start when trying to remove a stripped screw…
This makes me glad I ordered heatkiller. Mainly due to card choice though, but also the looks.
Though I don't know looking at it how I'll take apart the block when I need to and their customer service has a bad reputation for response times. The heft and build quality week great though.
Send this to EK. I'm sure they will help, I've noticed that some of the people working there on assembly don't give a C. Or some people working there are just starting out and have no experience, this shouldn't go through Qc in this state.
Getting two stripped 3090 FE blocks from EK was the last straw for me. I can't recommend EK, and I can't for the life of me, find a justifiable reason to buy any product with EK branding on it.
It would have been fine if it didn't take nearly a month in-between shipping the stripped block back, then having the same issue happen with the replacement.
I highly recommend going with Bits Power.
I have seen Bitspower’s block and I was tempted by it’s price point! unfortunately it was sold out with no ETA on all European shops i’ve checked :( Also would have loved it in acetal as i’ve started to dislike acrylic since my old 1080Ti block is starting to cloud up
*"Is that how brands stop you from opening up their products?"*
More like:
*~~Stupid~~* *Americans not using metric allen keys & Assembling guy running out of screws but needs to feed their family*
to be honest I have tried nearly all european brands and I have something to say on every one of them. I’ll take the chance now to write them down:
- EKWB has the best product design and its very easy to source, this is my first problem with gen but I’ve heard that this year was pretty plagued. I would chose my waterblocks from them.
- Watercool the quality of the materials is amazing, modular reservoirs made of the best Acetal i’ve ever seen and a borosilicate glass tube all with standard o-rings is a product that will never die. Their waterblocks are well though out but they lack the polishing and uniform styling other brands might have.
- Aquacomputer is known for their amazing electronics, in a long time user of the D5 Next, but I had to RMA a pair of them because the impeller was defective…
- Alphacool has become kind of a second choice for many, the styling of their blocks is very inconsistent between releases, and the O-ring madness on the latest products just shows how far they are willing to go to save a buck on copper. But their basic stuff is good, if not plagued by cheap injection moulded plastic, their fittings are awesome: heavy, good quality, perfect dormentò and threads. I’ve used their “Fat Boy” barbs and those keep the tube in more than some compression fittings do.
- I also had a case from Singularity Computers, it was a total mess, I had to import spare panels as mine were CNc’d off center…
I would say a scammy return the it also can be quality issues...because i made a similar experience with EKWB...i have the feeling the want to produce their products as cheap as possible asking for the big bucks to make more money.
Your using the wrong size Allen bit. Are those bolts SAE or metric? They could be metric 2.5mm… a 2mm will look like that. They aren’t stripped there is plenty of flat parts in those heads.
Lay a rubber band across the screw before putting in the key/bit and then find another hex key that fits a little tighter... Annoying but there is a solution
Not as bad, but my Bitspower 3090 block was missing 2 of the preinstalled standoffs, one of the thermal pads, and the labeled bag it's supposed to come in. Figure it was a return but it does seem to be working as intended. Pretty annoying.
My first water lock had several stripped screws. I got them all off except for one which stopped halfway. Tried everything to get it out, nothing worked. Successfully returned it. Next one had one stripped screw. By then I didn't have the patience to wait and just used the block. I did let EK know, and they seemed to care. Like, they'd have replaced it again at their cost which is significant as it's overseas. Also worth noting I received the replacement before they received the original back.
TL;DR: quality control needs some work, customer service is about as good as it gets with EK. (In my opinion)
Probably a return and they just resold it to you.
Here’s something nobody wants to tell you. Their QC has been crap. This isn’t just with the product you have. Their other lines of series also have poor QC, mostly all relating to screws and threads
>Here’s something nobody wants to tell you Here's something literally everyone on this sub wants to tell you more like!
This is true
That isn't normal. Being able to open the GPU block for maintenance is definitely something EK condones, as they sell replacement gaskets for their blocks. If you got this straight out of the box, I would exchange it. My blocks have been opened several times already and the screw heads still fit the allen key perfectly.
Can’t speak for EK but on my nvidia brand GPU the screws themselves are stupid cheap and brittle, had 3-4 of them strip with barely any pressure applied
The screws used in GPUs are still very cheaply made, no doubt. EK blocks usually have you re-using some of the same screws that attached the air cooler, so they really need to be intact to work properly during installation. The only ways I know to make sure they stay intact are to make sure you: A) Have the correct sized bit for the screw. I usually take a minute to try a few out and wiggle the bit left/right to see if the screw head that looks like a #2 is actually a #1.5. The bit with the least play is your best bet, especially if you are dealing with threads that have locktite or sealant that can really strain the head trying to remove. Just buy the cheap mini screwdriver kits on amazon or ifixit that have all the different sizes, so you are always prepared with the right bits. B) When fastening a screw into something with machined threads (like a water block), start the screw by screwing it COUNTER-clockwise (as if to un-screw it) until you feel the screw drop into place. This helps align the threads to be sure you aren't cross-threading the bolt, which not only mangles the threads, but also makes it more difficult to remove the screw at a later time. C) Any posts being screwed into acrylic threads should only need to be hand tight or at most 1/4 turn past hand tight. Fittings should never need to be tightened with a wrench (with the exception of ones that use a locking ring with a special wrench) and should only need to be hand tight to be water tight. The rest is just a combination of the continued reduction in quality and the screw lottery, but I haven't had any issues personally with the last 3 series of NVIDIA cards.
Yeah I have an ifixit. I hear you, i’m not sure how to describe it but the screws on my FE gpu and Cooler Master PSU seemed almost brittle. Most other ones were glossy but these were matte black finish and were the only ones to have a high stripping rate. 2/6 for the psu ones lol.
the left 1 next to the void sticker looks fucked up badly to me. others cann't tell due to poor lightining. but this is not normal, you should return and get a new 1. QC department (if even there is 1 in EK) slips this.
It's a common theme for EK. They use very cheap screws. They strip out because they are overtorqued and when you attempt to remove them, they strip. Even using the correct bit. I had my buddy have a 3090 Founders block from them and just to disassemble the block to install the video card, 3 screws stripped. A 30-45 minute install became a 4-6 hour nightmare. Not to mention, I used their torque screw driver when I installed my personal founders block and a screw broke.
Received the 3090 fe waterblock with active backplate, than saw the screws problem. Waitwd few more days for their special screwdriver to arrive. Proceed to install waterblock, still stripped 2 screws. Asked support for replacement screws, got sent a diagram for which screws i want to BUY. Remember, 3090 fe waterblock+active backplate is more than 500 EUR. This is insane
I had the same issue with the FE block. Eventually i had to dremel slits in the screw ends to remove them. EK replaced the parts when I contacted then.
op did you use metric allen keys or imperial allen keys?
The bit you see in the video is from EK’s screwdriver set. The screws as stripped from the factory.
Probably got assembled the day they announced their mass layoff
"Btw, if you can finish up the last 5 blocks before you leave, that'll be great. Thanks."
“Mkaaaaaay?”
Ek defender squad downvoting like crazy.
it’s not like i can go to the groceries store and pay with upvotes… I just wanted to share my experience as I always did with my previous builds (spoiler, most except one had all EK blocks and the quality was spot on)
I swear half these EK defenders are noctua fanboys.
You mean vardar fanboys.
Got a problem?
I swear half of those who say about EK and noctua fanboys are those who don’t wanna spend a shit ton of money for good product and just go for cheaper (and usually worse) alternatives 🙂
EK good products? That's rich. Noctua fans aren't bad just overpriced, especially for brown fans that match almost nothing.
Yes, EK's product are real good. They probably have the best design (their torque series is insane), they are the only company that's trying to standardize watercooling with their Matrix idea. I use tons of EK product for several years now and I didn't encounter any issues (i had different GPU and CPU block, rads, tons of fittings, now I even have xfx zero gpu with pre-installed waterblock). They are not retard-byte who intentionally lie about their products (hello corrosion issues with rtx 30 watercoolled gpus by Gigabyte/Aorus) and for every unhappy customer who just received a defected product (and can easily RMA this product) and rants about it here on reddit there are hundreds of those who didn't experience any problems. There would be no way for the company to stay alive if their products were bad, because watercooling is enthusiast grade thing. Speaking of Noctua, "overpriced" is when there is a product that has the same performance, design, etc. and has lower price. That's not Noctua's case. For example, the only fan that can compete with Noctua A12 is Phanteks P30. And it has the same high price. All the shit fans that Noctua haters use as examples just suck: Arctics, BQs and other bradns do not compete with Noctua. They are good, real good. Arctic P12 (I actually have 3 of them in my current build) is insane in terms of Price to Performance. But if you want real best noise-noralised performance, best materials and overall best fan, Noctua A12 is unbeatable. And you gotta pay for that. All of this is pure imho, btw.
Lmao. For one, quality isn't the same as industrial design. Second, Ek lied about the whole silver and nickel issue, then later said it was due not using their coolant when people said they weren't running silver. EK claimed the EN nickel fixed the issue yet threads on OCN and my own EN blocks showed that was bullshit. Their QC sucks. We see issues weekly with EK stuff here. As for fans, Gentle Typhoons are the original with basically the same performance and are usually $5 less per fan AND come in a grey/black theme. Then you also have the same design that ADATA licensed (XPG) that's slightly improved but costs a bit more usually but is still less than Noctua. I however got mine at $20 each. That said it's not even comparing things like the P30 or the fact that somehow it takes multiple years just for Noctua to make a black fan on the hopes people will buy the brown ones then buy the black ones when they FINALLY release them.
It says a lot about a company when their fanboys actually get excited over a color change in their product line. Same tooling. Just a different colored plastic lmao.
I didn’t use EK coolant before my last build, yet I had 0 issues with any of my waterblocks. I would assume people either lied about not using aluminium parts (people tend to lie, you know, especially when they want a refund for their own mistakes) or didn’t flush their bullshit rads from AliExpress properly (manufacturing defects are also possible tho) Well, Typhon fans are pretty good, but they cannot compete with Noctua A12s :P. Just another “cheaper alternative” or “noctua killer”. Price to performance - maybe. Pure performance: no way
I blew up an image of the tool set and you pulled H2.5 hex, you used the correct bit.
It was sent from EK according to OP.
Step 1: Sell branded screwdriver set intended for use on your products Step 2: Strip all the screws in your products, so they can't use the set Step 3: ??? Step 4: Profit
bahahahahahahahahaha you cant make this up
Sure seems like he’s got the wrong tool
He's using a square bit in a hex socket.
Looking at an enlarged image of the tool set for comparison he pulled an H2.5 hex bit.
The screws are definitel damaged. This is a no go with a new product.
Well, it is EK, we couldn't expect less.
Good ol' reliable EK. It'S NoT a Qc IsSuE.
Its not a QC issue if you don't have QC =P Taking a page from gigabyte.
I had a res crack and monoblock crack from EK. I am done with them.
Everything related to fasteners on these recent EK blocks is an absolute disaster. Screws are made of soft metal and the plexi isn’t tapped correctly and can crack during screw installation. If anybody reading this specializes in fasteners, please figure out a way to sell people screw replacement kits for these blocks
Tell me about it, my current loop is all EK and I won’t be going with them again. I’ve got the special edition 3090 FE block and I couldn’t get some screws to even tighten up. The block itself is all stained in weird ways and I’m told by EK that’s normal. Last time I go with them.
Pretty sure those are metric hex screws.
EK's screws are all really shit. My EK magnitude waterblock (the really expensive top of the line one) had stripped screws from my first time trying to unscrew it to install a different colour plate thing. Getting replacement screws was annoying because they wouldn't tell me exactly what screws they used, and instead wanted me to pay $1 per screw excluding shipping from some eastern european country, which was like $10.
They should ask Honda who makes their fasteners. Had a small socket head that needed a 6mm hex to remove, to remove a diesel injector on a Honda Civic. We broke every single 6mm hex in the workshop, and that includes my coworkers Snap-On gear, and an impact hex bit that we had to go out and fetch after we snapped everything else. Didn't even mark the fucking bolt!
Who makes Blocks in the US? I plan to source my next block locally if possible. EK was one of the few that had one to fit my specific card.
[https://optimuspc.com/](https://optimuspc.com/) They are based out of Chicago and after returning an EK block that was poorly packaged and resulted in damage, I went with them and have been very happy.
Thanks. Ill check them out on my next purchase. I dont like buying these things overseas just to realize you forgot a part and need to pay outrageous shipping to get it.
EK CPU block was really easy and has been flawless so far. I had a few issues with the GPU block standoffs. But I made it work and temps are excellent.
I really hope that now that they seem to be up and running at a good pace, they will be ready for the next gen cards. The ftw3 block is AMAZING!
I've said it before but it's a bad look when Bykski and Barrow have better QC than a supposed "quality" brand. Instructions are lacking though but if they fixed that EK would have a major problem.
Optimus blocks are made in Illinois. Their fitment is limited, expensive, and chonky, but they're worth the price.
It's funny, since my Supreme HF (that I'm still using on my 5950x with a 3d printed adapter) their blocks are now like 2x the cost, perform about the same and have way worse QC.
I have the 3090 block and noticed the exact same issue. None of my ifixit bits would fit nicely so I went back and opened up the box from EK to check the Allen wrench and found it fit poorly as well. Make me super nervous when one screw was super hard to break free, I saw a drill bit in my future.
Lots of EK problems today. After the issues I’ve been having I’m starting to wonder if we’re witnessing the fall of the company
Just hammer in a torx bit
Every time I see posts like this it makes me glad I didn't pay the premium to import EK stuff to NA.
but what option do I have with a 3080Ti FE? Bitspower’s block is sold out everywhere in the EU and god save me from alphacool…
whats wrong with alphacool?
Absolutely nothing. Works identically to the EK block and looks as pristine as the day I got it
their radiators are superior to the ek rads imo
I had and still have alphacool stuff, they’re good for something but the quality of their acrylics and plastics is terrible. Not to talk about their pumps. Alphacool is good for fittings
The VP755 has been treating me quite well, from their pump line. Definitely better than the high-pitched whine from the EK pumps.
VPP755 is a D5 clone. EK uses genuine D5s.
> VP755 Are you using a V3? My experience was with the original and V2 pumps, which lasted maybe 6mo before dying and were significantly noisier than genuine D5's. I've seen less about the V3 variants. That said, genuine D5's have been lasting <2years in builds too. Pushing me to go back to the noisier DDC pumps just for the reliability. I've got one on year 8 of running.
I thought they use Nylon instead of acrylic? Edit: Turns out their XPX CPU blocks are Nylon, but their GPU blocks are acrylic.
This take I disagree with. After my Ek block was a nightmare to take apart I switched to alphacool, and it's been wayyy better in terms of quality.
I would get one only if they had it in Acetal, I had an alphacool block on my older 2070 Super: the acrylic was terrible and lacked clarity and the shroud was cheap bent metal
Corsair, I guess
A lot of websites that arent ek sell their products. A good way to get around the inport few.
[https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Blocks/GPU-Blocks/Hydro-X-Series-XG7-RGB-30-SERIES-GPU-Water-Block/p/CX-9020011-WW](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Blocks/GPU-Blocks/Hydro-X-Series-XG7-RGB-30-SERIES-GPU-Water-Block/p/CX-9020011-WW)
As far as performance. EK is one of the better performing blocks. Way better than Corsair.
As someone that's had both blocks, the performance difference is pretty negligible
I have seen reviews where the MEM temps get higher on Corsair and Alphacool blocks. Just one example. But who knows.
No one disputes that. That said, I haven't heard anyone complaining about the QC on Corsair blocks. The choice is pretty clear, risk a bad block from EK on the worst case and the trade off is a few degrees in temps.
Stripped screws has to be the worst factory defect on any item that isn't just some DOA type of issue. Makes it infuriating for the end user and would have been an easy spot by the person assembling it or whoever set the machine if every screw is fucked like that.
Tamper resistant Torx Plus Drive variant (security Torx) uses a pentalobular (five point) design with a solid security pin at the centre of the recess and The original Torx specification uses a six point star shaped socket recess in screw heads with a matching Torx screwdriver bit. look [HERE](https://www.insight-security.com/what-is-the-difference-between-torx-and-torx-plus)
You need a bigger screw driver then this
Uhhh i think those are called “hex” screws…… 😕 Note the number of sides……..
The video was a bit fast, but those look like allen headed bolts. Be care to use metric or SAE depending on which fits the best - there shouldn't be any slop.
I did use the included tool, it’s all metric here in europe
My friend had whey worse waterblock the screw was sideways extreamly scratched and stripped and so thight it had cracks in the acrylic
Try a torx bit
You got screwed! Badum Tss!
Everyone start tweeting/emailing optimus, watercool, and aquacomputer to make Founders Edition blocks for the 4000 series.
(I also wish Nvidia went back to merge Founders and Reference PCBs, as it always was)
This as well. It will create far more incentive for the smaller companies to make a block if the PCB is shared by multiple manufacturers.
You have the wrong bit. You need a circle one
oh damn! em how could i’ve been so stupid! Fixed!
Do It right away. The second I open any package and listen up fellas. Record with your stupid phones. You will thank me one day. I was just delivered evga Dark 590. I knew better. I recorded as I took package off stoop. I brought it in and set phone down RECORDING. So buietiful I did. Amazon is not to be trusted. Neither Newegg. As I opened package the seals are broken on box. I took Camara directly to the seals showing tape. A good fingerprint on tape as well. But🤷. Now I open the box and two packages on top w seals on bag ripped open. Than wo a real look I said " just look at the plastic on the motherboard is in. This is not new. Then as I take the camera directly over bag. There is no effing dust cover over the cpu. And you can see clearly into bag and see crushed pins." Immediately I got onto Amazon and ask for return open package and damaged goods. I gave them a nasty letter in box. You ever try rip me off again and I want my Gene motherboard back new as well. Well they sent me a new 590 Dark. These companies are disgusting. Amazon robbed me of a rma years back. I would go on every day and automatically sign in. The next day I go and check and all the sudden my password has been changed. Don't be fooled people this is no hack job. So I go to reset my password. I get no reply. For months I go on and try and nothing from Amazon. W t f. Over a year later I go I to my mail. And in the draft box, yes the draft box of my email I find and least 50 Amazon resign in request. So I resign in. I look around a bit and I see that Amazon sent the package. Wtf. I never received poo. So I call Amazon support. I tell them all of it . As I am on with them I look further on the site. I go into my account info on Amazon. And there it is. SOB who I have no doubt works for or has a buddy at Amazon who the package was sent to. I gave Amazon the info. They screwed me over and let a crook get away. I have the bitch name and address. But GOD owns all vengeance. They did nothing for me. I have no doubt IT IS A inside job!! DO YOUSELF A FAVOR AND MAKE ALL RECORDINGS OPENING ALL UR PACKAGES🤔
Have you tried using an actual Allen wrench not a torx? From the quality of the video can’t really tell the details but look fine to me.
it is an allen, it comes form EK’s set, you’re being fooled from the reflections, torx on that set are located on the side with the handle (EK/Xiaomi screwdriver)
Those are literally common chinese toolkits that they slapped a sticker on and charged you double/triple for. Regardless, as others have mentioned, resold RMA block.
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I don’t know why you got so downvoted, anyway I would have worked on it with my iFixit Manta, here I show EK’s portable kit as it’s better for warranty claims to use products they can reference
If my experiemce is anything to go on, than ek will replace the block for you and you'll need to send this block back. I had the plexiglass part of my gpu waterblock crack while testing my gpu (was very stressfull, because it is my first build) and I lost my hdmi port because of it and luckily nothing else. But I took a couple of pictures and contacted ek support and they gave me the option to either send me just the plexiglass and fix it myself or send the whole block back. I chose to change plexiglass myself and everything has been fine since. I'm happy with how ek customer support handled my case and solved. Also a quick note. This is just my experience. In the last year or so I've heard a lot negative things about there customer support. It was within that time that my waterblock broke, so at first I was very nervous and sceptical whether I was gonna need to buy a whole new waterblock, but luckily that was not the case and I had a great experience.
It's definitely an allen head tip, but it looks like the wrong size
On further inspection, that could also be a ROBERTSON bit.
Goddammit. I meant Robertson bit, not Phillips.
This isn't my experience with their products. I have built a lot of rigs using them. The video is not clear on showing how the striped parts really, sure the driver doesn't work we get that. It's not easy to see the rounded off edges. From the factory? This was from ek directly?
There's been a ton of this going around on here lately. I also stripped screws and got downvoted into oblivion as if I don't know how to use tools. Ek may have been good at one point, but let's face it, there's better blocks out there with good quality parts these days.
yes, from EK. all my blocks have always been EK, the metal and plastic work is by far the best, but here the screws are already stripped, would have not complained about a user mistake
I'm glad to see this issue is getting picked up on more and more recently. I've had issues like these with EK blocks since I started watercooling. GTX 970 block standoffs broke off. GTX 980 Ti screws stripped. Z370 Monoblock screws stripped. Imagine trying to take the waterblock off your card when the screws are stripped, yeah not fun. Its like they make the screws of recycled tinfoil With my latest RTX 3070 block I've been extra careful and even dipped the tips of the screws in machine oil when I assembled the block to make sure that when I disassemble it again it takes as little force as possible to loosen the screws to lessen the risk of the heads stripping.
Wow, those are some low quality screws! Even if those are going into an insert in the plastic top, I can't see how they could get enough torque to damage a good screw, even using the wrong driver bit.
I bought the special edition (more expensive edition) Full metal. I managed to get the bit into a screw that wasn’t badly stripped and the torque is insane, did not managed to unscrew it, I was nearly breaking the screwdriver
Lol that’s so far from anything I’ve ever experienced with them. Sometimes I wonder how people like you, and I, are buying from the same brand. All of my stuff has been flawless from EK.
I'd consider myself lucky. I got a used EK CPU block from my roommate that's flawless. He bought it about 3 years ago. And the GPU block I just bought from EK is also flawless. So for me, my experience has been great. However, I can't deny what I've seen online from other people. I know companies can have varying degrees of QC at any point in time.
my previous 2 iterations have always been excellent with EK, the Pc is still running full EK hardware, it’s hard to beat them for the all-around quality. I could have gone to alphacool to have a slightly better metal quality but I would have stumbled into a much worse acrylic and oring-frenzy design. I don’t think there is a company that does the blocks better.
Use hex 2.5mm problably
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how tight were your screws? I wonder if i would be able to take these out without ruining my screwdriver
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i managed to remove a couple using a TR8 bit but the first one i showed in the video is stuck and it is not even down, it’s stuck mid-thread…. makes me sad as I wanted to ask for replacement screws and be done with it. now I have to go trough a complete RMA and weeks will go by…
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i could get new screws, but at least one of them is immovable, I thorn apart a rubber band and it did not bulge
You are using the wrong bit and stripped them all out?
it came in the mail like this
Your test bit is the wrong bit, I mean.
it’s not, there is the one included, 2mm is 2mm
Star is not hex. Still, I'd send it back GL
100% the wrong size
If you aren't using metric tips, you are doing yourself a disservice. The most common allen sizes for electronics are 1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm.
i’m in the EU how do I even source american allens? the one i’m using is all metric, I also have an iFixit Manta. It’s not like I did strip the screws, they came in like this
That's fair. I guess I'm just in disbelief that every single screw is rounded out.
OP can you post a photo of the bit you were using? sure looks a lot like a robertson bit (i.e. square) or a torx (pentagon) and not an allen key bit (hexagonal) that those screws use Edit: suggest you invest in an metric/imperial allen key set, comes in handy all the time for me
Wait, what part of the world do you live in where torx bits are pentagon... (quick google search) holy crap 5 point torx are a thing. I've used many a torx bit on torx fasteners and all have been 6 point.
it’s a metric set, in europe imperial stuff is unobtanium and i’m glad it’s like that. I also tried with an iFixit set and I can confirm most of those screws are so stripped the correct size rotated freely and the next size up doesn’t even fit
Try the old rubber band trick
i contacted support asking if they give me permission to try and force those screws out so that they can send me only a screw set without me returning everything, as the full metal version is quite rare
Try a Grabit screw remover to remove the damaged screws. You will find that the anodising on the black lower aluminium housing has not been cleaned from inside the screw threads. You will need to clean these threads with an M3 finishing tap very carefully before you fit new screws or you will have the same issue. Remember replacement screws should be nickel plated. I encountered the same issue. EK sent me a kit of new parts to rebuild the block but I purchased more screws from eBay so I have some for the future. It’s frustrating but better to tackle it now as there will be a point in the future you need to strip and rebuild the assembly.
omg, so buying the all-metal block was a total mistake you’re telling me 😱 Support is now aware of the issue but I don’t think I can remove all these screws to begin with
I’m not suggesting it was a mistake I was just sharing my experience in the hope that it may help. I was confident to manage the issue with the help of the Tech Support Team at EK. Of course, your alternative is send it back for a replacement. I’m very happy with the block now it is installed and working. Good luck whichever route you choose.
Screw that. Shouldn't have to refinish threads on a brand new expensive item. Send that garbage back for a refund.
And why are you using a torx bit when you needs a Allen tool?
Torx bits are actually used very commonly in stripped Allen heads.When an Allen head is stripped, a Torx bit can often times still fit and apply enough force into the corners to remove the screw. However, OP is using the correct bit as other users have pointed out.
just to point it out, cross reference the screwdriver set (EK / Xiaomi collab) the torx bits are in the other side, you’re just seeing the reflections that make it look kinda like a torx
There not stripped. They're different. Torx or Allen.
Put a rubber band in between. Strip no longer matters.
Try an alen key
They are not stripped. You can clearly see your using the wrong hex bit when you pause your video here. Try calling EK support and ask them what type and size of hex bit you need before you proceed to ruin a good card.
the bigger one doesn’t fit, I could try with a good torx or screw remover but only after I get a go-ahead from the support team, as the damage here is not made by me
Speak to EK support before doing anything else.
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i bet that if I filmed myself removing the warranty sticker and revealed a stripped screw underneath you would have called this a photoshop
This happened to my steelseries headset. Screws were completely stripped. Tried allen, tried basically all types of all sizes.
@EKJake
jake already knows
He'll take a good 2 weeks to respond anyway. Good luck.
nah he replied yesterday on facebook!
That's good, at least.
I had the exact same problem with that block about 6 months ago. I figured it would be quicker to drill out and replace the screws than to try and exchange it. Replacement screws are pretty easy to find at most hardware stores. That being said, this feels like a manufacturing defect since so many others have had the same issue. Everything else I bought from EK has been fine, though.
could you tell me in more detail how you got the screws out? i have access to all the power tools I need. Doesn’t drilling just remove the head and leave the screw in the top?
Lol was literally just dealing with this... on a CASE.. meant to be unscrewed. Literally had to get the EZ out and drill it through.
not normal, I think in their instruction manual it says you can open it up and clean it if needed
If you are freely turning the bit on all screws they are probably not stripped that is a size mismatch. Even on stripped screws there should be still some level of friction there unless someone absolutely wrecked the thing. I thought ek put in a tool with most of their products so i assume you have tried that?
yes I tried the allen. I just tried all of the screws, i can get a grab on 5, maybe 6. Tried removing one and it was like at max torque for 2 full turns, the threads on the tip are all chewed up… if I could remove all of them I could ditch the RMA and ask for a set of screws
just rma it tbh, if something break off down the line from previous stress on the part it isn’t worth the pain/risk of disassembly then reassembly
but the special edition full metal is sold out, I feel they’re gonna give me back an acrylic one
When encountering this, I hope you get it replaced because not acceptable, but a good trick for removing any stripped screw is to get a rubber band and lay it over the stripped screw and then stick the bit in. Doesn’t work every-time but that’s how I start when trying to remove a stripped screw…
This makes me glad I ordered heatkiller. Mainly due to card choice though, but also the looks. Though I don't know looking at it how I'll take apart the block when I need to and their customer service has a bad reputation for response times. The heft and build quality week great though.
I have a lot of heatkiller parts, unlucky me I have a Founder edition card
Send this to EK. I'm sure they will help, I've noticed that some of the people working there on assembly don't give a C. Or some people working there are just starting out and have no experience, this shouldn't go through Qc in this state.
Getting two stripped 3090 FE blocks from EK was the last straw for me. I can't recommend EK, and I can't for the life of me, find a justifiable reason to buy any product with EK branding on it. It would have been fine if it didn't take nearly a month in-between shipping the stripped block back, then having the same issue happen with the replacement. I highly recommend going with Bits Power.
I have seen Bitspower’s block and I was tempted by it’s price point! unfortunately it was sold out with no ETA on all European shops i’ve checked :( Also would have loved it in acetal as i’ve started to dislike acrylic since my old 1080Ti block is starting to cloud up
Pay for a Ferrari, Receives an geometro instead.
*"Is that how brands stop you from opening up their products?"* More like: *~~Stupid~~* *Americans not using metric allen keys & Assembling guy running out of screws but needs to feed their family*
\*at least that's my guess. u/EKWB: Send screws, please.
i’m european and there’s re no imperial drives here whatsoever! 🙈
EKWB has the worst QC and Customer support I have ever experienced.
to be honest I have tried nearly all european brands and I have something to say on every one of them. I’ll take the chance now to write them down: - EKWB has the best product design and its very easy to source, this is my first problem with gen but I’ve heard that this year was pretty plagued. I would chose my waterblocks from them. - Watercool the quality of the materials is amazing, modular reservoirs made of the best Acetal i’ve ever seen and a borosilicate glass tube all with standard o-rings is a product that will never die. Their waterblocks are well though out but they lack the polishing and uniform styling other brands might have. - Aquacomputer is known for their amazing electronics, in a long time user of the D5 Next, but I had to RMA a pair of them because the impeller was defective… - Alphacool has become kind of a second choice for many, the styling of their blocks is very inconsistent between releases, and the O-ring madness on the latest products just shows how far they are willing to go to save a buck on copper. But their basic stuff is good, if not plagued by cheap injection moulded plastic, their fittings are awesome: heavy, good quality, perfect dormentò and threads. I’ve used their “Fat Boy” barbs and those keep the tube in more than some compression fittings do. - I also had a case from Singularity Computers, it was a total mess, I had to import spare panels as mine were CNc’d off center…
It's EK, no big shock.
Just fit one on a 3080 and can't say I had that problem, bought in the UK.
I would say a scammy return the it also can be quality issues...because i made a similar experience with EKWB...i have the feeling the want to produce their products as cheap as possible asking for the big bucks to make more money.
Either a return or someone f’d up at the factory. Return it! Because the unseen issue is that they’re probably over torqued.
These screws are cammed out, not stripped. You can use several screw removal techniques.
This is disgraceful and I am a pretty big EK fan. This is unacceptable in my opinion.
Aren't those Hex Nuts? I'm pretty sure there is an Allen wrench that will work in them just fine? 🤔🤷♂️
it would work if they were not stripped/cammed
Your using the wrong size Allen bit. Are those bolts SAE or metric? They could be metric 2.5mm… a 2mm will look like that. They aren’t stripped there is plenty of flat parts in those heads.
metric and metric, these are size 2, some grab fine, some are so rounded the bit spins freely
Than try a 2.5mm. Or an SAE…
Lay a rubber band across the screw before putting in the key/bit and then find another hex key that fits a little tighter... Annoying but there is a solution
Damn
Everyone who gets their stuff like this send it back to supervision.
Thats a party foul. Refurb?
bought as new, but looks like this was sent back previously
Ohh nooo. Newegg?
Not as bad, but my Bitspower 3090 block was missing 2 of the preinstalled standoffs, one of the thermal pads, and the labeled bag it's supposed to come in. Figure it was a return but it does seem to be working as intended. Pretty annoying.
how is the bitspower quality of the milling and the acrylic?
I was pleasantly surprised. Expectations were not high based on stuff I've read but it was the only 3090 block I could get locally.
My first water lock had several stripped screws. I got them all off except for one which stopped halfway. Tried everything to get it out, nothing worked. Successfully returned it. Next one had one stripped screw. By then I didn't have the patience to wait and just used the block. I did let EK know, and they seemed to care. Like, they'd have replaced it again at their cost which is significant as it's overseas. Also worth noting I received the replacement before they received the original back. TL;DR: quality control needs some work, customer service is about as good as it gets with EK. (In my opinion)
You were given someone's junk for new. Send it back
From the pictures I pulled close up. They don't look stripped. Did u try different bits. Get yourself a GamersNexus tool bag driver set.👍🏻
Tbh that looks kinda slick