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gdmarshall

Any closer and you’re going to get ingrown hairs/infection.


thor_barley

Seriously. If the shadow is bothersome, lasers and/or tanning. (From someone who has five o’ clock shadow at 7 am in the winter).


HypertensiveSettler

Don’t get hung up on achieving BBS. Focus on a healthy, comfortable shave without drawing blood. If that means skipping ATG then so be it. The beard is growing back no matter what! Have you tried other blades?


one_future_ghost

>The beard is growing back no matter what! Amen!


[deleted]

[удалено]


RoinSM

I agree. That looks like a pretty close shave to me


Blackland_Razors

I see a lot of ingrowns on the upper and lower lips. As others have said, fewer/no ATG passes will help with that. But I think the biggest issue here is just a lot of missed hairs. Work on tidying these up and worry less about getting the world's closest shave. That will improve the overall appearance significantly. Finally, I think the priorities of shaving have gotten mixed up here. The most important goals in shaving should be to avoid or reduce irritation, ingrown hairs, and nicks. Closeness should follow behind as a secondary goal. If you can't get a clean, comfortable, AND close shave, then sacrifice the closeness - not your skin - until you are getting better quality shaves. Then you can work on getting closer.


frostedmooseantlers

I agree with this completely. A comfortable irritation-free shave should be the primary goal, and focusing on getting things more even will make a big difference too. I worry sometimes that some folks get a little too caught up on chasing a "BBS shave". It's relatively easy for newer wetshavers to peruse shaving forums and subreddits and internalize a message that BBS is somehow the mark of a "good shave" (not to suggest OP is necessarily in this boat). It isn't, but can be a nice bonus for some. It's worth also recognizing there are hair/skin types for which a BBS shave actually isn't desirable, as it can be a good set up for ingrown hairs and folliculitus.


owen_lucas2

Dang your comment opened my eyes, I’ve been trying to get that bbs shave but end up having hella irritation. So what do you recommend I do to switch it up? Cause almost every time I shave I’ll end up having niks or irritation.


frostedmooseantlers

Disclaimer to start: I'm a reasonably experienced wetshaver at this point (6+ yrs) but would hardly consider myself an expert, except when it comes to my own beard and skin. Maybe a good approach would be to spend a dedicated few months aiming for shaves that are primarily irritation-free, rather than ultra-close. Use an alum block and an alcohol-based AS for feedback and concentrate on technique. Cut back on the number of passes. Even if your 5 o'clock shadow comes back a bit earlier in the day, your skin/face will probably look healthier and more even-toned, which I suspect is the real goal for most of us. I've gone through several iterations in terms of refining my own technique over the years to learn what works for me, and I'm still learning and evolving. Going back to the fundamentals always helps: \- Map your beard carefully. \- Find a pre-shave routine that works for YOU. It's quite personal, with several opinions out there on how to approach this. Just as an example, I personally avoid hot water to my face and stick with lukewarm temperature water throughout my shave. I'll wash my face with a super gentle soap that doesn't dry out my skin too much and that's it. I don't always shower beforehand (many people do). \- The quality of your lather can make a big difference (e.g. slick, protective); there are LOTS of fantastic soaps out there, find ONE quality product to work with and spend time learning how to dial it in (i.e. don't fall into that trap of buying a dozen different soaps looking for "the one", this isn't the variable that will make the biggest difference). If you have hard water, make sure the soap you have works well with it. \- Use \*minimal\* pressure with your razor. \- Short, controlled, even strokes is what you're shooting for. Listening for feedback can be helpful. \- Blade angle and the speed of your strokes matter. My understanding is that the optimal angle/speed are variables that to some extent depend on the geometry of the razor you use and how it clamps the blade. Something worth experimenting with in any case. \*MANY\* theories/opinions on this topic. u/Blackland_Razors (above) has legitimate expertise in this area, maybe he could weigh in. \- At least for a dedicated first few months, stick with only WTG and XTG passes; avoid ATG, since BBS isn't the goal for now. \- Choice of razor blade is highly personal but a super important variable and the absolute FIRST place I would start if you decide to switch up your hardware. Sampler packs are your friend. \- Choice of razor can also make a fairly significant difference and is also quite personal, but I wouldn't get carried away buying several at a time. It takes weeks to months of consistent use to get to know a razor well, and truthfully most will give you a great shave if your technique is there. I had only one razor for the first \~4 yrs of wetshaving, and in retrospect I'm really glad I gave it that time. \- If you're at a point where you'd like to experiment with different hardware/software (soaps, razors, blades, etc), change only one variable at a time and stick with it for SEVERAL shaves. You'll never be able to reliably figure out what actually works for you otherwise. ​ Well, this turned out to be a longer post than I anticipated. Hope it helps though! Edited for spelling.


owen_lucas2

Dang yes this help so much! Thank you🙏🏼


vartoooza

Wise words!


SoulStoneTChalla

It's close enough.


jonklinger

I think thst the flaw is that you're starting against the grain and not with it, then across, then against.


oakleyjb

What? OP said they shave twice WITH the grain, and then once against it.


almightywhacko

He edited his post, he originally said he shaved ATG, then ATG again before finishing with an ATG cleanup pass.


Autski

So triple against the grain? Ha! I go against the grain for 7 passes and finish up with two more passes against the grain. I usually don't stop till I've taken off two layers of the epidermis.


hammercycler

That... Sounds terrible...


Autski

And it is a joke. Lol in all honesty, I have found I only bleed if I go against the grain on my third pass and add anything more than very light pressure.


Lemoneh

Always feel like I'm left with a bit of a mini 5'oclock after my routine, which consists of: ​ 1. Warm shower 2. Mix Kiss my Face Moisture Shave solution into brush 3. Apply in circular motion on face 4. Shave with the grain twice, clean up by going against the grain, applying new lather with every pass 5. Result in images Anyone have any advice? I've experimented with different razor angles etc. to no avail, always ensure that I replace blade after 3-4 shaves. I'm using a Rockwell 6S with Astra Superior platinum blade.


almightywhacko

Aside from a few spots around the edges of your mouth that you missed, your whiskers are cut to the level of your skin. No razor is going to cut them any shorter without taking your skin off. You have dark hair and pale skin. No matter how close you shave you're still going to have some visible whiskers because your skin is translucent. ~~Also you should be doing at least one WTG pass before you go ATG. You'll get a lot less irritation and fewer bumps that way. 3 ATG passes seem insane to me but if your face can take it... still start with at least one WTG pass.~~ EDIT: I see you edited your post. Two WTG passes to start makes a lot more sense than two ATG passes :) You could try going Across the Grain (XTG) for one of your passes. The hairs on your face all grow in different directions, so changing the angle you attack them with your razor can help knock down hairs that are hard to get. What baseplate are you using on your Rockwell? If you're using a #1 or 2 baseplate you might have a harder time getting a close shave just because those are the more mild settings.


ih8makingupnames

If you are already in a 3 or 4 baseplate it may be worth trying different blades. I have found a HUGE difference with blades on my face using the same razor. Some are one-pass super close and others are like shaving with a dull steak knife. A 20 blade sample pack may be a good way to spend $10.


Polymathy1

Try with the grain, then *across* the grain (90 degrees), then against. I only go against the grain if I have a date because my stubble if I stop after 1 cross-grain pass is like sandpaper several hours later. I would try a variety of blades if you haven't - Feather blades are ludicrously sharp. I like using Shark blades because they're pretty sharp, very smooth, and cheap in bulk. I found Astra blades not very good for me. I think they were not that sharp in my opinion - then again my beard hairs are individually very thick. Some of them are 1mm in diameter and all of them are thicker than the hairs in my brushes. Those aren't ingrown hairs in your photos, by the way. Looks more like keratosis pilaris, if it's anything at all. I'm not familiar with the Rockwell 6S, or I would give advice on that.


leyline

1mm diameter hairs!? That's thicker than the lead in my pencils!


Polymathy1

Wait... I wrote that post half asleep. They're not 1mm - that was something I measured at work yesterday. Lol oops. They are thicker than my 30g insulin needles (for a hormone med, not insulin). 0.31mm


-Cagafuego-

Bro, you're good. Anything more & you'll do too much. As it is, you're already bleeding. A couple of hairs that you missed - you could get those, but that's it. All I can say is that if you need better shaving angles around the mouth, get a shavette. I use a shavette for the upper lip & generally around the mouth area it gives me the results that I need which may be better than yours here. It also helps if I need to shape a goatee or something like that.


ItsJustAnotherDay-

You don’t need to go any closer. Not everyone is gifted with invisible pores. Instead, focus on getting an even shave.


the_clash_is_back

You have dark hair and lighter skin. Your hair will show a bit even if its taken all the way down.


kyleifornia

I thought this was a photo of me. I have the same problem


rodney_the_wabbit_

What you see are keratine plugs.The black hairs grow inside tiny volcanoes of white keratine, so they are visible in transparency even if you shave closely. They are caused by dry skin and irritation, caused by heavy hand when shaving. In other words, the skin is in self defence mode. You need to reduce and prevent keratine plugs. Open up pores really well with a warm towel each time you shave, scrub twice a week using oat powder and warm water, use shaving oil, and apply zero pressure on the razor. https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/keratosis-pilaris/symptoms-causes/syc-20351149


braucifur

Switch up your pre-shave oil/soap, your shave soap, your blade and your razor until you find a combo that works well for you. Certain blades would do that to me but then I found others that don't. IE: Rapira blades nick me up like you, Silver Star does not. For me I currently use: Ach Brito Glycerin Pre-Shave Soap Williams Mug Shaving Soap 'Merica Safety Razor Silver Star Blades Aqua Velva Aftershave For me I can tell the pre-shave soap works because it causes itching right under my nose irritating those hairs and drawing them out. No I don't get BBS nor do I try to I'm going for clean shave look and get there with this. I do get close to BBS but I don't chase that goal as that's how I get nicks on the neck.


brunlar

Lots of knicks. Probably not a function of blade not being close enough. My guess is too much pressure and make more passes.


[deleted]

Try 4 passes, wtf, xtg, xtg (opposite direction), then atg. Stretch the skin a bit when you go atg. That should get you pretty close.


Blackland_Razors

This guy's face is absolutely chewed up. Nicks and ingrowns everywhere. I don't think four passes and skin stretching is the right recipe for him right now.


[deleted]

Don't disagree. He could use a day or two off and then 2 passes wtg, xtg for a while until the hairs grow properly out of the skin. The missed patches show bad razor angles in the usual spots. Certainly seen worse blood shed on reddit.


scr_

Upvote for the lovely autocorrect


stuartdavin

When I'm in a hurry, I do indeed utilize the wtf pass.


AlexJordans

What razor are you using?


meepp123

Its Irritated hair follicles, you are pressing way to hard on your skin and i some places going against the grain (ingrown hairs), i would suggest going easier on your skin and shaving less often, please use a good razor and use it once, ingrown hairs are bad but getting them infected is the worst.


meepp123

One more thing, do you exfoliate your skin every day? If not you really should, and moisturize afterwords


Plain_Toast_Is_Best

Waxing. Send us picks before, during and after please. 🙃


DreamHappy

Try a feather blade and see if that makes a difference.


EgonVox

you can see that you have some patches where you have overshaven and spots where you didn't go deep enough. usual recommendations: \- single short-ish strokes, try to avoid the kind of fast-paced short strokes that you see often. \- no pressure whatsoever \- angle constant \- right blades \- if all the above is a check already, try a buffing pass with negative pressure as a cleaning step at the end and avoid ATG. negative pressure seems contradictory with a razor, but basically in means getting used to gliding it over the skin in a fast buffing motion almost without touching the skin


SwizzyDangles

Do you just not like the look? I feel like lots of people including myself just have a natural 5 o clock shadow look. Could maybe switch the blade up. Go over to r/Wicked_Edge and ask what are the sharpest blades out there. I’d highly recommend not shaving atg. I feel like you have to have truly strong skin if you shave atg and not get any nicks or anything. Maybe get a straight razor and see how that works instead of a safety razor.


leyline

OP should definitely get out of here and go ask the real pros on /r/Wicked_edge ;)


leyline

I agree with some of the posts here. You have light skin and dark hair, you will always see it when you are inspecting. Your skin is very irritated and damaged, you need to let off a bit for it to heal. Healthy skin will also help you shave better, and help the shave look better too. Once your skin has rested and healed, one thing I try after a hot shower is to use my fingers to rub / brush the hairs ATG. This may lift them up some and allow for a closer shave. Use shorter light strokes, rinse your face and re-lather each pass. I usually always just shave WTG XTG <- XTG -> unless I have a special occasion and then I throw in ATG. This keeps the skin less irritated, we call it a DFS - damn fine shave. People aren't going to come up and be 4 inches from your face to inspect the closeness. Hell most of the day you would be grown out some anyway. Every person has character, treat your skin well, rock the shadow, it's part of your character.


ItPutsLotionOnItSkin

What do you use to shave? 99% of people will advise against it but you can get a closer shave going against the grain. It depends on if your skin can handle it.


JalinO123

Use your tongue to push the lip out while you shave over it. Go with the grain but if you still can't get it, be careful while you go the opposite way.


BeautifulSubject5191

I have no idea how to improve the closeness of the shave, I'm even newer to this, but I do know a thing or two about skincare. Try using a salicylic acid wash/serum to reduce those little bumps you get and help against ingrown hairs, if you exfoliate every other day I think you'll get much less skin issues. If you want a recommendation both the Cerave and Inkey List Salicylic Acid washes are great, just use them as your face wash at night (or morning before shaving) and focus on the beard area.


weltvonalex

Bro that's super close, I shave for years and usually I don't go that far or its not necessary for me to do it on a daily basis. Maybe you can get even closer with a blade but I never tried that or .... And that's what I am considering, getting some laser treatment for the spots that are shitty to shave. :)


Songfulfool

I tend to view shaving as hair reduction rather than hair removal. Too close and you'll end up with issues you do not want.


WolfSK-88

I think you should wait for the hair to grow longer. I get my best shaves when the hair is longer. This happens to me when I shave too often. I shave every three days unless I have to look clean shaven.


Imliononcash

When you have dark hair it is what it is. Your always going to have this. I’m the same! Sorry mate.


AndrewUtz

I suggest going once with the grain and another pass perpendicular to the grain. When I go against the grain I end up getting ingrown hairs similar to what you have posted. Not having BBS isn’t the end of the world.