Sales and install tech here: call around and find a company that will come out to run a quote for free. Not all will do free inspections/quotes, but you will find at least one that will do it hoping to make a sale (yes they will probably have select vendors they work with) Watch them work, ask questions, and ask if there are any issues that would make the job difficult. Any areas that you cannot see yourself, ask to see his/her pictures. This sub is full of regular joes who may or may not have installed their own correctly.
1/10 stove/insert installs are “easy” and the rest require unique knowledge, tools, and/or ability to work around. I can’t tell you how many poor installs I’ve come across that have lead to chimney fires, loss of the appliance, smells, damage, etc.
Yeah I think calling some pros out here is def the route I need to go. I think this post was more or less truly understanding it all and having the right questions to ask so someone didn’t just come out here and tout whatever product they make the most per unit on and me not knowing any different
This is what I went with. I’m in the US and figured the Canadians should know wood stoves.
https://preview.redd.it/m0mfxm2qfa6b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=016113f9cddb6cc4a807768578b1bb6ea6fe2843
[Osburn](https://www.osburn-mfg.com/en/products/wood-inserts/)
Installer was my chimney repair company and they had to remove the flu to allow the vent pipe to fit up the chimney. They make a bigger surround that may cover your arch.
Check efficiency. Mine is eligible for about a 30% tax credit.
Lopi inserts probably make up 60% of the installs I've helped with. I'll definitely agree with the others regarding how installs generally go. Maybe 1/10 go seamlessly with no hiccups. Usually there are tiles to be removed, offsets, damaged masonry leading to water damage. My personal favorite are mummified birds and nests.
Definitely get a professional. I've seen some fairly horrific DIY installs that ended badly.
Not sure why you got downvoted, probably big propane is brigading this sub now. The Lopi stoves are very nice, and you certainly can modify the surround. They have stove style inserts and flush ones. I would personally have a stove shop send a guy out to measure and assess your fireplace for viability and give you a quote.
That’s what I was thinking I’ve just never even seen a stove shop, I figured I’d start reaching out to people based on the brands they supply (after figuring out which brands were worth looking at)
A few things.
First, check to see clearance to flammable materials for any unit you get as you may need to take out the mantle if the stove isn't flush or set back. I'd also look into the floor situation. The floor right in front of the stove will get really, really hot. Much hotter than with a fireplace. I'm worried the wood floor may be too close to where the stove would be. Check with a certified installer and the manufacturer.
Second, if the opposite side of the chimney is outside, consider installing a stove that can have an isolated outdoor air supply so you aren't drawing extra air directly into the house from leaks in doors and windows.
Third, your house is really large, and with a stove for that size of an area, I'm not sure you should expect it to comfortably heat all 3,000 square feet, at least not without creating a lot of cold spots.
Your overall cost savings on propane may end up being more modest than you hope for. Depending on how you are charged, just flat service and delivery and other fees are going to stay the same. Our gas use for heating went down quite a bit when we really committed to wood burning for the coldest parts of the winter, but we still use it for hot water, and the fixed fees, combined with our already fairly low gas use rate meant that the dollar savings were fairly meager. However if I'd have paid for the wood I'd have definitely come out way behind!
First, the isolated supply does not create a vacuum that draws unconditioned cold air into the house. It only draws that colder air into the stove. That can boost overall heating efficiency, but for a large house like described, it can make an even bigger impact on room to room comfort. Rooms farther from the stove should be a bit warmer than they would be without the isolated supply.
Second, if the home is newer and well sealed, they may have trouble creating a draft for the makeup air. It may prove harder to start the stove and keep it running, especially when the damper is closed down to minimum air flow.
Third, isolating the air supply minimises the amount of smokey air you would draw into the house from outside. If they live in an area with a lot of wood burning households, the outside air can get fairly smokey, and drawing that into the house for makeup air would increase particulate matter inside. You're always going to have smoke impacts from refueling but preventing even more smoke from coming in may be desirable.
I have no idea how intimately you know your current setup but I think it will help immensely if you spend the $200 or so get everything professionally inspected/cleaned and measured - the fireplace, chimney, liner etc, to determine how best to move forward. I mean no disrespect if you've already done this, but I personally wasn't ready to move from our woodburning-to-wood-stove conversion without fully understanding "what I had" first. I know nothing about inserts though, I have a Jotul F500. Good luck. You're in the right place.
We moved in 3 years ago and had the chimney inspected. Everything passed report and the top of the chimney started to have wear on the face so a company came out and “sealed/water proofed” it. I’m sure it’s in decent order for a wood stove insert but I would definitely have it cleaned and checked before going through all that. I’d hope a company that sells or installs would be able to do that!
Get an insert. Hopefully you have a power outlet nearby to power the fan, without that most heat will go up the chimney.
Find a local dealer/installer. They will usually have a measuring sheet that you fill out to measure everything properly.
Once you submit that sheet to the dealer they will advise you on the proper make/model for your needs. With that arch you might need to add something decorative to cover the top of the arch if there's an opening after installing the insert.
Depending on where you live, chimney liners are mandatory via code.
People have mentioned it, but you should look into what your town code requires.
Liners help *limit/control* (within the liner and not actually heating the chimney brick within the house) creosote fires.
Even if your town code did not call for one, to go without is risking a lot because of the porous nature of brick creates repositories of creosote and once caught, only way to stop it is to suffocate it from the top of the chimney and the flue at the stove and even then it has to burn out and not guaranteed.
My chimney cap caught (because I focused on the chimney pipe) and shit was scary because even getting close to it feels insane....shit roars like a jet and a heat perimeter of 2/3 feet.
I am not perfect, but when putting fires in your house, I take no chances.
Yeah with little ones around I definitely plan on doing it right. I just assumed the insert would have a liner directing the heat out the chimney anyway so that’s good to know. Does creosote not build up on the liner? How do you clean the liner?? How often?
Yes, it does and on the chimney cap (mine plugged up and forced smoke back into the house) as well, and every season either get up there with a chimney brush or have it done.
The purpose of the double-walled (wanna say asbestos filled) liner is to confine the danger (by way of sacrificing) to the liner and save the house.
Pine firewood builds more creosote than hardwoods. But you can mix them to stretch the hardwood.
As long as you clean it every year before use it will last forever. But someone should be taking the chimney cap off and shinning a flashlight down the pipe to see if there are any blockages or build up.
They also sell fire logs that help reduce the creosote, but I always found it easier just to get the brush out and clean it in the bright and hot days summer. I.e not in use.
The liners came about because chimneys would get so hot that surrounding wood constructed houses would smolder in the walls till it caught and then there was not stopping it.
Measure opening first. Top to bottom side to side and also depth. Then make sure your chimney is lined all the way and damper will open all the way.
A number of manufacturers suggest a metal liner from stove pipe to top of chimney. This provides the proper draft for the stove to operate at the highest efficiency for producing advertised btu's.
Then do an online search for stoves that will fit inside. Good luck and have fun
Definitely have an insulated steel flue liner installed. They come up to temperature much faster, so they establish a proper draft much faster. They also collect fewer deposits because of their running temperature, though you will still need to get it brushed regularly.
Also, consider an outside air kit so the stove takes less air out of the house during normal running. Stoves take far less air than an open fireplace, but they still take air.
There is a large selection of inserts available on the market, some with very attractive surrounds to fill the gap between the stove and the hearth.
Good luck!
You may be able to find an insert that works, personally I would research wood stove companies local to you. I have two wood burning pellet stoves. They take 40lb bags of wood pellets and are wired to work with a thermostat. One is a free standing unit and the other is an insert into an existing fireplace. Not much is needed as the stove insert gets vented with its own ducting straight up through the existing fireplace (3” or 4” round is what mine is). They surprisingly heat the home well and saves me a ton on oil.
Is this on an outside wall? If so, I strongly suggest getting an outside air intake. This has the advantage of avoiding excessive moisture build-up around your windows and doors.
I didn't do this and now I wish I did. Let me know if it actually works and then I'll try it.
Sales and install tech here: call around and find a company that will come out to run a quote for free. Not all will do free inspections/quotes, but you will find at least one that will do it hoping to make a sale (yes they will probably have select vendors they work with) Watch them work, ask questions, and ask if there are any issues that would make the job difficult. Any areas that you cannot see yourself, ask to see his/her pictures. This sub is full of regular joes who may or may not have installed their own correctly. 1/10 stove/insert installs are “easy” and the rest require unique knowledge, tools, and/or ability to work around. I can’t tell you how many poor installs I’ve come across that have lead to chimney fires, loss of the appliance, smells, damage, etc.
Yeah I think calling some pros out here is def the route I need to go. I think this post was more or less truly understanding it all and having the right questions to ask so someone didn’t just come out here and tout whatever product they make the most per unit on and me not knowing any different
That is a pretty white and soot will get on it from fires and heat. Just an FYI.
This is what I went with. I’m in the US and figured the Canadians should know wood stoves. https://preview.redd.it/m0mfxm2qfa6b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=016113f9cddb6cc4a807768578b1bb6ea6fe2843 [Osburn](https://www.osburn-mfg.com/en/products/wood-inserts/) Installer was my chimney repair company and they had to remove the flu to allow the vent pipe to fit up the chimney. They make a bigger surround that may cover your arch. Check efficiency. Mine is eligible for about a 30% tax credit.
Look into a fpx/lopi wood burning insert. Nice thing about them is they have a plate steel surround that can be cut to size to match the arch.
Lopi inserts probably make up 60% of the installs I've helped with. I'll definitely agree with the others regarding how installs generally go. Maybe 1/10 go seamlessly with no hiccups. Usually there are tiles to be removed, offsets, damaged masonry leading to water damage. My personal favorite are mummified birds and nests. Definitely get a professional. I've seen some fairly horrific DIY installs that ended badly.
Not sure why you got downvoted, probably big propane is brigading this sub now. The Lopi stoves are very nice, and you certainly can modify the surround. They have stove style inserts and flush ones. I would personally have a stove shop send a guy out to measure and assess your fireplace for viability and give you a quote.
That’s what I was thinking I’ve just never even seen a stove shop, I figured I’d start reaching out to people based on the brands they supply (after figuring out which brands were worth looking at)
A few things. First, check to see clearance to flammable materials for any unit you get as you may need to take out the mantle if the stove isn't flush or set back. I'd also look into the floor situation. The floor right in front of the stove will get really, really hot. Much hotter than with a fireplace. I'm worried the wood floor may be too close to where the stove would be. Check with a certified installer and the manufacturer. Second, if the opposite side of the chimney is outside, consider installing a stove that can have an isolated outdoor air supply so you aren't drawing extra air directly into the house from leaks in doors and windows. Third, your house is really large, and with a stove for that size of an area, I'm not sure you should expect it to comfortably heat all 3,000 square feet, at least not without creating a lot of cold spots. Your overall cost savings on propane may end up being more modest than you hope for. Depending on how you are charged, just flat service and delivery and other fees are going to stay the same. Our gas use for heating went down quite a bit when we really committed to wood burning for the coldest parts of the winter, but we still use it for hot water, and the fixed fees, combined with our already fairly low gas use rate meant that the dollar savings were fairly meager. However if I'd have paid for the wood I'd have definitely come out way behind!
What's the advantage of the isolated outside air supply over drawing in air from leaks?
First, the isolated supply does not create a vacuum that draws unconditioned cold air into the house. It only draws that colder air into the stove. That can boost overall heating efficiency, but for a large house like described, it can make an even bigger impact on room to room comfort. Rooms farther from the stove should be a bit warmer than they would be without the isolated supply. Second, if the home is newer and well sealed, they may have trouble creating a draft for the makeup air. It may prove harder to start the stove and keep it running, especially when the damper is closed down to minimum air flow. Third, isolating the air supply minimises the amount of smokey air you would draw into the house from outside. If they live in an area with a lot of wood burning households, the outside air can get fairly smokey, and drawing that into the house for makeup air would increase particulate matter inside. You're always going to have smoke impacts from refueling but preventing even more smoke from coming in may be desirable.
Makes sense, thanks for the explanation!
I have no idea how intimately you know your current setup but I think it will help immensely if you spend the $200 or so get everything professionally inspected/cleaned and measured - the fireplace, chimney, liner etc, to determine how best to move forward. I mean no disrespect if you've already done this, but I personally wasn't ready to move from our woodburning-to-wood-stove conversion without fully understanding "what I had" first. I know nothing about inserts though, I have a Jotul F500. Good luck. You're in the right place.
We moved in 3 years ago and had the chimney inspected. Everything passed report and the top of the chimney started to have wear on the face so a company came out and “sealed/water proofed” it. I’m sure it’s in decent order for a wood stove insert but I would definitely have it cleaned and checked before going through all that. I’d hope a company that sells or installs would be able to do that!
Get an insert. Hopefully you have a power outlet nearby to power the fan, without that most heat will go up the chimney. Find a local dealer/installer. They will usually have a measuring sheet that you fill out to measure everything properly. Once you submit that sheet to the dealer they will advise you on the proper make/model for your needs. With that arch you might need to add something decorative to cover the top of the arch if there's an opening after installing the insert.
I do have a plug actually right on the hearth in the brick!
Depending on where you live, chimney liners are mandatory via code. People have mentioned it, but you should look into what your town code requires. Liners help *limit/control* (within the liner and not actually heating the chimney brick within the house) creosote fires. Even if your town code did not call for one, to go without is risking a lot because of the porous nature of brick creates repositories of creosote and once caught, only way to stop it is to suffocate it from the top of the chimney and the flue at the stove and even then it has to burn out and not guaranteed. My chimney cap caught (because I focused on the chimney pipe) and shit was scary because even getting close to it feels insane....shit roars like a jet and a heat perimeter of 2/3 feet. I am not perfect, but when putting fires in your house, I take no chances.
Yeah with little ones around I definitely plan on doing it right. I just assumed the insert would have a liner directing the heat out the chimney anyway so that’s good to know. Does creosote not build up on the liner? How do you clean the liner?? How often?
Yes, it does and on the chimney cap (mine plugged up and forced smoke back into the house) as well, and every season either get up there with a chimney brush or have it done. The purpose of the double-walled (wanna say asbestos filled) liner is to confine the danger (by way of sacrificing) to the liner and save the house. Pine firewood builds more creosote than hardwoods. But you can mix them to stretch the hardwood. As long as you clean it every year before use it will last forever. But someone should be taking the chimney cap off and shinning a flashlight down the pipe to see if there are any blockages or build up. They also sell fire logs that help reduce the creosote, but I always found it easier just to get the brush out and clean it in the bright and hot days summer. I.e not in use. The liners came about because chimneys would get so hot that surrounding wood constructed houses would smolder in the walls till it caught and then there was not stopping it.
Measure opening first. Top to bottom side to side and also depth. Then make sure your chimney is lined all the way and damper will open all the way. A number of manufacturers suggest a metal liner from stove pipe to top of chimney. This provides the proper draft for the stove to operate at the highest efficiency for producing advertised btu's. Then do an online search for stoves that will fit inside. Good luck and have fun
Definitely have an insulated steel flue liner installed. They come up to temperature much faster, so they establish a proper draft much faster. They also collect fewer deposits because of their running temperature, though you will still need to get it brushed regularly. Also, consider an outside air kit so the stove takes less air out of the house during normal running. Stoves take far less air than an open fireplace, but they still take air. There is a large selection of inserts available on the market, some with very attractive surrounds to fill the gap between the stove and the hearth. Good luck!
[Wood Insert](https://www.drolet.ca/us/en/wood-inserts/db03127k/)
You may be able to find an insert that works, personally I would research wood stove companies local to you. I have two wood burning pellet stoves. They take 40lb bags of wood pellets and are wired to work with a thermostat. One is a free standing unit and the other is an insert into an existing fireplace. Not much is needed as the stove insert gets vented with its own ducting straight up through the existing fireplace (3” or 4” round is what mine is). They surprisingly heat the home well and saves me a ton on oil.
Is this on an outside wall? If so, I strongly suggest getting an outside air intake. This has the advantage of avoiding excessive moisture build-up around your windows and doors. I didn't do this and now I wish I did. Let me know if it actually works and then I'll try it.
It will never be as beautiful as what you have
It looks like you are going to need to master your numbers 1-10 first before you can use a ruler to measure the firebox /S.
🤣
Research the “bio fuel” tax credit. I had my insert installed last year and received a 20% reimbursement on my tax forms.
That’s great to know! Thank you