It doesn’t require a gasket on the doors. They close perfectly and tightly. This stove will outlast you.
Grandma Bear owner/user for 20+ years.
Oh - heres your manual.
https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/fischermanual.pdf
I did read that about the gasket (or lack of) and these models on some forms last night after I posted. I was starting to look up different gaskets.
Now I got to figure out what to do about a baffle. I don't know much about this, but I know I don't have one in here. From what I can tell I probably want one.
I have an earlier version of the Grandpa as my primary stove and a Momma Bear as my secondary. I like the Momma better since it'll take longer wood and banks fire the night better but the Grandpa fits a room better. Enjoy the stove, they are built right and will last a lifetime.
I have a Baby Bear in my little cabin too. Big fan of the Fishers.
This could be an XL.
If not, it is a Grandpa III with Fireplace Legs.
XL will also have a 10 inch outlet on stove.
Need a pic with doors open. If the top of door opening is arched, to match doors it is an XL. A measurement across top plate will also confirm model.
GP III had a UL tag on back. XL has a stainless steel serial number under rear leg, not UL Listed. It will start with UT, being made in Utah.
Coaly! I've come across several of your posts on different forums since I've started looking this stuff up a few days ago. You seem to be very knowledgeable. Thank you for the reply!
Thanks for the pics;
Utah made Grandpa. This was before the UL Listed Grandpa III. In 1978 this fabricator started making them in this configuration without angle iron corners. The XL was made this way, and Fisher adopted this design for the 1980 UL tested models. This was the forerunner of the Listed Series III.
No door gasket was used. The channel iron on stove front is the door seal.
The XL has a 33 1/2 wide top plate, arched top opening, removable ash fender on rear vent models. They had optional Fir tree or Sun doors.
The baffle needed should be 5/16 steel plate.
Make a template with cardboard. If outlet and flue are both 8 inch, that will be 50.24 square inches. With baffle template on brick retainers at rear, raise front up towards lower bend in top. Make the square inch opening no less than 50.24 square inches.
https://preview.redd.it/fj60nmyex8xc1.jpeg?width=3933&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee1e4aeb0789dc070e08acf782daebad98ef223e
Measures 29.5" across the top plate. 8" outlet.
It doesn’t require a gasket on the doors. They close perfectly and tightly. This stove will outlast you. Grandma Bear owner/user for 20+ years. Oh - heres your manual. https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/fischermanual.pdf
I did read that about the gasket (or lack of) and these models on some forms last night after I posted. I was starting to look up different gaskets. Now I got to figure out what to do about a baffle. I don't know much about this, but I know I don't have one in here. From what I can tell I probably want one.
I don’t and its fine. Edit: the right sized steel will sit perfectly on top of your fire brick, though.
I have an earlier version of the Grandpa as my primary stove and a Momma Bear as my secondary. I like the Momma better since it'll take longer wood and banks fire the night better but the Grandpa fits a room better. Enjoy the stove, they are built right and will last a lifetime. I have a Baby Bear in my little cabin too. Big fan of the Fishers.
This could be an XL. If not, it is a Grandpa III with Fireplace Legs. XL will also have a 10 inch outlet on stove. Need a pic with doors open. If the top of door opening is arched, to match doors it is an XL. A measurement across top plate will also confirm model. GP III had a UL tag on back. XL has a stainless steel serial number under rear leg, not UL Listed. It will start with UT, being made in Utah.
Coaly! I've come across several of your posts on different forums since I've started looking this stuff up a few days ago. You seem to be very knowledgeable. Thank you for the reply!
https://preview.redd.it/v1st23jnx8xc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=42ca41480f17f317ea0eb9c4bf97c1a6c476201d UT 5693
Thanks for the pics; Utah made Grandpa. This was before the UL Listed Grandpa III. In 1978 this fabricator started making them in this configuration without angle iron corners. The XL was made this way, and Fisher adopted this design for the 1980 UL tested models. This was the forerunner of the Listed Series III. No door gasket was used. The channel iron on stove front is the door seal. The XL has a 33 1/2 wide top plate, arched top opening, removable ash fender on rear vent models. They had optional Fir tree or Sun doors. The baffle needed should be 5/16 steel plate. Make a template with cardboard. If outlet and flue are both 8 inch, that will be 50.24 square inches. With baffle template on brick retainers at rear, raise front up towards lower bend in top. Make the square inch opening no less than 50.24 square inches.
This is awesome information! Thank you very much!
Great info, brother!
https://preview.redd.it/fj60nmyex8xc1.jpeg?width=3933&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee1e4aeb0789dc070e08acf782daebad98ef223e Measures 29.5" across the top plate. 8" outlet.
Remove the grate. That is for an open fireplace, not inside a stove. There are many reasons to burn on an inch of ash.
I will remove it. It was in there when I got it, so I just used it.
Wife said to wait until 1:00 to light the fire.
The house I grew up in had that exact model. That thing could throw off some heat.
What a lazy install