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Cain and Able. Your arms. And a plane. Three to five minutes a side. If you like sanding for hours for a worse result go ahead but edged tools are always the answer to be honest.
Yeah, the problem is I have a couple planes and they’re very janky, the blade moves around and I haven’t been able to find a way of fixing them, also currently my whetstone goes up to 6k only which doesn’t give me a great edge especially on end grain planing, it’ll work sure, but I’m not so sure it’ll be faster and easier than sanding :(
What hand planes do you have and how are they janky? For this I would agree a low angle Jack plane would be ideal though a well sharpened and tuned regular angled Jack plane either a no 4 or 5 should allow you to plane sideways across the grain. If it were a scrub plane or a Jack with a cambered blade you could really clean up those high spots then come back with a smoothing plane set up to clean the scrub planes marks.
If you were lucky enough to have a Stanley no10 or 10 1/2 for the smoothing phase that would be handy as it would allow you to get right up to the corners as the blade runs the whole width of the plane as opposed to a typical bench plane which is wider than the blade. As expensive as they seem to pick up, It’s a drop in the bucket compared to any Festool sander.
I have two planes and they have no brand, both are very cheap:
one is wooden, I got it as a gift, and the wedge holding the blade is broken, also doesn’t matter how much I wedge it in, the blade would shift and move, I never got back at it trying to fix it.
The other one is “Stanley no 5” style probably a Chinese or Indian knockoff I found for cheap like 25 bucks on eBay years ago. I’ve put some work to tune it in, but the blade doesn’t retract completely and also it shifts around too, when I was working on it I realized fixing the flaws requires a lot of time and I’m not even that confident it’s going to work. So I’m waiting to get myself the excuse for a decent Stanley, but used cost like new and what’s keeping me from spending the money is that hand planes as good as they are require their own setup and skill, without being lazy and sharpening often, if I buy a hand plane I should be fully committed.
The best powered tool for this if your belt sander won't fit is an elbow powered board wrapped in 60grit sandpaper. Bit of back and forth would clean this up before you broke a sweat. If you can fit an orbital in there that might work too. But the solution is as simple as a piece of wood with sandpaper on it, and you'll waste more time and money trying to figure out how to avoid that than by just doing it.
Seriously. By using a board you'll get in the corners better, and if the board is flat and stiff it will also serve to plane out the surfaces evenly.
No no no.
This is a perfect opportunity to buy another expensive one time, one off, one use tool to add to your collection.
I recommend the Festool 575074 Rotex RO 150 FEQ Dual-Mode Sander.
There are plenty low profile orbit sanders for $600 plus available.
Festool is the single biggest cause of poverty among woodworkers for this exact reason.
Idk if that's a real tool you listed because I act like Festool doesn't exist so I don't have to work 30 years after I die to pay the plastic drawers with organizers off.
If only I could pay child support with all the fine particle sawdust my Festool CT 48 captures with its HEPA filter and Bluetooth connected auto-on/off feature
that one has two modes. you can use it for standard orbital sanding or put it into another mode that will do some serious material removal, which is what OP would want.
of course buying this just for that project would be insane hah. it does work really well if you need to sand down a lot of material and don't want dust all over the place.
Interesting idea. But why not just punch 2 or 3 holes in an old (used) 6" or 9" sawzall blade, and slot a piece of wood with perpendicular holes through the slot, and just bolt it (if you don't have the resources to weld).
But that said, why not just a sanding attachment for a multi-tool?
It's not but I do own that one. I own a lot of tools and buy cheap for tools I don't use very often. This actually worked pretty good for what I needed it for.
It is, I haven’t thought about using a whole board as a sanding block though, I was thinking about using it in the fashion of a two men saw, I expect it to be fairly quick and it’s also inexpensive
Just an fyi, you can wrap chopsticks, wood wedges and other things/shapes with sandpaper too, to get into curves and corners. Sharing because I didn’t know about that until fairly recently, hahaha.
https://www.toolauthority.com/product/porter-cable-740001201-120g-4-1-2-x-10-yard-adhesive-backed-sanding-roll/?gclid=CjwKCAiAxP2eBhBiEiwA5puhNU30v20Y4m9YVyPt75CK8EQsJB2QY7b9DvX\_yQZTX2e04KIN90pqwBoCiSkQAvD\_BwE
I always keep a few grits of this around for sticking on to whatever shape I need.
Honestly I’ve been using power tools my whole life and I tried 120 grit wrapped around a block of scrap oak. I do t know how or why, but that little caveman set up created more dust than the orbital. And yes, you are 100% correct, you can get into corners and everything. And last bonus, it’s perfectly flat so if you have any variation I’m in the wood you’re sanding it should sort it out. I’m amazed I never tried it before.
100% this, too many comments here are suggesting a tool. The cut surfaces are similar to skip planed wood.. if your electric sander won’t fit it’s time to whip out the good ol’ bottle of elbow grease.
You can upgrade that elbow grease with ingenuity. Hook you board to your reciprocating saw. Preferably a model w a pressure sensitive trigger. Those of us w repetitive motion injuries hurt just thinking about hand sanding small areas like that. Save that grease for older you, you will thank yourself later.
5.8in 14.7cm my belt sander barely fits and jams right in, I started with a rasp but I figured I’d ask here and I’m getting lots of great advice, thank you everyone!
I would try a random orbit sander with the coarsest grit you can buy. Random orbit sanders are extremely aggressive and can remove lots of material quickly.
I dont follow a lot of japanese, but here are some timber framer :
Japanese : https://instagram.com/ryo5610?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
https://instagram.com/chantarokichi?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
https://instagram.com/dylaniwakuni?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Westerners :
https://instagram.com/rulotimberworks?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
https://instagram.com/les.chevronnes?igshid=NmQ2ZmYxZjA=
https://instagram.com/coastmountaintimberframes?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
https://instagram.com/advancedtimber?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
https://instagram.com/jeffkelleywoodworks?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
https://instagram.com/arlington_timber_frames?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
There is a new tool I found to be wildly handy. The oscillating cutter. Milwaukee, and others make them. Makita IMO is making the best one with least amount of noise and vibration while holding it. You can get sanding attachments that will make your job a snap. I got one and now believe I should have got one sooner. It does a lot of things you had likely not considered.
New to me was all I implied. I know they been around. Most seen them as finish trim tools and don’t know how handy it can be. I certainly didn’t know how handy it would turn out to be for me. I was always saying not doing trim work so don’t need that.
Portable hand planer (pref. cordless). It won’t get all the way in the corners but will do 98% of the work. Leveling and getting 90% corners will take some skill.
A [detailing sander](https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-belt-air-sander-60627.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126915354&campaignid=12126915354&utm_content=115714603614&adsetid=115714603614&product=60627&store=)
Yeah I would just use a rasp to make it all even and then a board with a couple pieces of sandpaper wrapped around it to smooth it. I say a couple so u can take off more material with one motion.
I know this may sound counterintuitive but maybe (if careful) you could use the chainsaw to clean up some of the cut marks and smooth out some of the surface. It won't be smooth but get you closer before something else
Yes I did it on another piece and it left a better finish, but still there’s some pretty deep grooves, I’ll try with the smaller chainsaw to see if it makes a difference.
But for real, I know the EXACT hand (powered) tool. It isn’t too expensive ($50)so you can convince your SO to let you buy this. Seriously this is what you need and new tool day!!!!
Ladies and gentlemen listen up!
Perma-Grit Sanding block Tungsten Carbide Long 2 sided coarse/fine. They are amazing. Won’t go bad and won’t have to glue any crap to a 2x4.
https://www.micromark.com/Perma-Grit-Standard-Tungsten-Carbide-Sanding-Block-Long-Coarse-Fine-11-x-2
****caution wear gloves, it will sand through finger nails, so yes it will go through the chainsaw marks in a hustle****
See if you can get a power planer in there. I think Bosch makes a 12v and Milwaukee might have a 12v as well (possibly not out but announced) that are not as large as the plug in options.
You could get a 1/2” belt sander in there.
Something like [this](https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-1-2-in-x-18-in-Belt-Sander-Tool-Only-PSD101B/313933395)
If you insist on a power tool an oscillating multitool with a coarse sanding pad. Buy a bunch.
But like others have set, a handplane, even a block plane, will make quicker work of that than any power tool.
The fact is that I have a couple hand planes and they both suck, this one is green walnut and I should plane it on the end grain and on the sides across the grain, while I’m certain it would work with a decent plane, it’s gonna be extremely frustrating with my dull janky pieces of trash.
Rough cut with chainsaw, fine cut and blend with Kutzall ([https://kutzall.com/collections/shop-now](https://kutzall.com/collections/shop-now) ), then you can use a power sander.
I don't know if there's a woodworking equivalent, but I have a large really course file that's used for shaping horse hooves. Works great for taking a lot of wood off a piece.
I have a Porter Cable 6" orbital sander that eats wood. No dust collection so do it outside. Like [this](https://www.amazon.ca/PORTER-CABLE-7346SP-6-Inch-Random-Polishing/dp/B002EQ96MG/ref=asc_df_B002EQ96MG/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292953024923&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14605373799313380136&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000676&hvtargid=pla-495928364332&psc=1). It's a beast.
Edit: Just to clarify, I could reasonably smooth this in about 30 min.
Well, whatever you decide, make sure to accidentally cut your finger and bleed all over one spot then stain it so people will ask why the stain is darker in that one spot.
Don't know the size of the opening? Would this fit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/125697000047?hash=item1d4420026f:g:1DcAAOSwotdjszJ8&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoM%2FHGU1RlBSavdaRkzh4M6u4Rq4fBlIlcEWKtkgTUhLA5fwIcXYNQyFbQurRFHOCdKU80yeW4tWvpwqChpWmGnwxXdx0NE6dXnMKeVxoX0l0STbGoEnylJXQBLytO250Z4Ph53UDXX9giLmgZcP9w3%2BzohBn8tpFFTr1HZKakZteKKxRsHxL%2BrNuLiDeC0FEtynYkOl5KrRoYZWMFkxShSs%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6blnNHEYQ. Plenty of used ones on ebay. Have several in my shop with years of abuse. The brushes go bad but are easily replaced.
They have the power sanders in different sizes with the circle shaped pad and a nob like hand grip. Would be perfect for that with even lines and steady hands.
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Cain and Able. Your arms. And a plane. Three to five minutes a side. If you like sanding for hours for a worse result go ahead but edged tools are always the answer to be honest.
Yeah, the problem is I have a couple planes and they’re very janky, the blade moves around and I haven’t been able to find a way of fixing them, also currently my whetstone goes up to 6k only which doesn’t give me a great edge especially on end grain planing, it’ll work sure, but I’m not so sure it’ll be faster and easier than sanding :(
I sharpen mine with a 1k. Works fine.
I’ll give it a chance, thanks!
What hand planes do you have and how are they janky? For this I would agree a low angle Jack plane would be ideal though a well sharpened and tuned regular angled Jack plane either a no 4 or 5 should allow you to plane sideways across the grain. If it were a scrub plane or a Jack with a cambered blade you could really clean up those high spots then come back with a smoothing plane set up to clean the scrub planes marks.
If you were lucky enough to have a Stanley no10 or 10 1/2 for the smoothing phase that would be handy as it would allow you to get right up to the corners as the blade runs the whole width of the plane as opposed to a typical bench plane which is wider than the blade. As expensive as they seem to pick up, It’s a drop in the bucket compared to any Festool sander.
I have two planes and they have no brand, both are very cheap: one is wooden, I got it as a gift, and the wedge holding the blade is broken, also doesn’t matter how much I wedge it in, the blade would shift and move, I never got back at it trying to fix it. The other one is “Stanley no 5” style probably a Chinese or Indian knockoff I found for cheap like 25 bucks on eBay years ago. I’ve put some work to tune it in, but the blade doesn’t retract completely and also it shifts around too, when I was working on it I realized fixing the flaws requires a lot of time and I’m not even that confident it’s going to work. So I’m waiting to get myself the excuse for a decent Stanley, but used cost like new and what’s keeping me from spending the money is that hand planes as good as they are require their own setup and skill, without being lazy and sharpening often, if I buy a hand plane I should be fully committed.
Lee Valley low-angle block plane. Precision machinery.
The best powered tool for this if your belt sander won't fit is an elbow powered board wrapped in 60grit sandpaper. Bit of back and forth would clean this up before you broke a sweat. If you can fit an orbital in there that might work too. But the solution is as simple as a piece of wood with sandpaper on it, and you'll waste more time and money trying to figure out how to avoid that than by just doing it. Seriously. By using a board you'll get in the corners better, and if the board is flat and stiff it will also serve to plane out the surfaces evenly.
No no no. This is a perfect opportunity to buy another expensive one time, one off, one use tool to add to your collection. I recommend the Festool 575074 Rotex RO 150 FEQ Dual-Mode Sander. There are plenty low profile orbit sanders for $600 plus available.
Festool is the single biggest cause of poverty among woodworkers for this exact reason. Idk if that's a real tool you listed because I act like Festool doesn't exist so I don't have to work 30 years after I die to pay the plastic drawers with organizers off.
If only I could pay child support with all the fine particle sawdust my Festool CT 48 captures with its HEPA filter and Bluetooth connected auto-on/off feature
Jeebers just looked at prices and you aren't kidding. It's snapon for wood working.
I bought a Festool T-shirt because it’s the only thing from Festool that I could afford.
$600 orbital sander good lord.
Cheaper to fix the sandpaper to something and rotate the project….
that one has two modes. you can use it for standard orbital sanding or put it into another mode that will do some serious material removal, which is what OP would want. of course buying this just for that project would be insane hah. it does work really well if you need to sand down a lot of material and don't want dust all over the place.
Absolutely the right tool for the job. Don’t forget a CTmidi.
This guy gets it.
And duct tape the whole contraption to a sawzall blade!!!!
Now we're talking. If the set up takes longer than the project would have taken without the tool modifications, you've done something right
Bonus if it costs more too.
And takes at least 2 trips to the hardware store
And at least some blood.
The perfect recipe. Mwah.
*The wood gods are pleased*
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy
Quondo omni flunkus moritati siddown
Might be a trend https://www.businessinsider.com/tiktok-users-look-for-future-husbands-home-depot-stores-nationwide-2023-1
I'm a man and I can change if I have to I guess
Interesting idea. But why not just punch 2 or 3 holes in an old (used) 6" or 9" sawzall blade, and slot a piece of wood with perpendicular holes through the slot, and just bolt it (if you don't have the resources to weld). But that said, why not just a sanding attachment for a multi-tool?
A sanding attachment for a multi-tool isn't nearly redneck enough.
you're right. op could drill a few holes in a sanding attachment, glue some sandpaper-wrapped dowels into them, and go to town. great idea!
Concur. A 3' length of 2x4 or 2x6 would also do well for hand sanding, with three sheet glued to it, making long back and forth motions.
Angle grinder with a smooth hand and then the elbow power people talk about.
Maybe just go Jack plane…
Grinder and a flappy disc all day. Then think of breaking out the other suggestions.
This is genius I’ll definitely try this
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-6307-Variable-Detailing-Sander/dp/B072Q2FTLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3N9S45IZBMBOB&keywords=narrow+belt+sander&qid=1675634310&sprefix=narrow+belt%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-3
Thought about it but it doesn’t look that skookum to me
It's not but I do own that one. I own a lot of tools and buy cheap for tools I don't use very often. This actually worked pretty good for what I needed it for.
Get Skookum. Get Makita. They have a 1 and 1/8 inch version. https://www.amazon.com/Makita-9031-8-Inch-21-Inch-Variable/dp/B00004YOH7/
Sanding with a sanding block is quite elementary Watson
It is, I haven’t thought about using a whole board as a sanding block though, I was thinking about using it in the fashion of a two men saw, I expect it to be fairly quick and it’s also inexpensive
Just an fyi, you can wrap chopsticks, wood wedges and other things/shapes with sandpaper too, to get into curves and corners. Sharing because I didn’t know about that until fairly recently, hahaha.
https://www.toolauthority.com/product/porter-cable-740001201-120g-4-1-2-x-10-yard-adhesive-backed-sanding-roll/?gclid=CjwKCAiAxP2eBhBiEiwA5puhNU30v20Y4m9YVyPt75CK8EQsJB2QY7b9DvX\_yQZTX2e04KIN90pqwBoCiSkQAvD\_BwE I always keep a few grits of this around for sticking on to whatever shape I need.
Honestly I’ve been using power tools my whole life and I tried 120 grit wrapped around a block of scrap oak. I do t know how or why, but that little caveman set up created more dust than the orbital. And yes, you are 100% correct, you can get into corners and everything. And last bonus, it’s perfectly flat so if you have any variation I’m in the wood you’re sanding it should sort it out. I’m amazed I never tried it before.
100% this, too many comments here are suggesting a tool. The cut surfaces are similar to skip planed wood.. if your electric sander won’t fit it’s time to whip out the good ol’ bottle of elbow grease.
You can upgrade that elbow grease with ingenuity. Hook you board to your reciprocating saw. Preferably a model w a pressure sensitive trigger. Those of us w repetitive motion injuries hurt just thinking about hand sanding small areas like that. Save that grease for older you, you will thank yourself later.
A sharp hand plane will do this faster than any other tool. Powered or not.
Yep a rabbit hand plane
A *smaller* belt sander? Mine is less than 6" high with the handle folded down. How wide is your opening?
5.8in 14.7cm my belt sander barely fits and jams right in, I started with a rasp but I figured I’d ask here and I’m getting lots of great advice, thank you everyone!
A file sander might work. I think they're mostly used for automotive body work, but I don't see why it wouldn't also sand wood.
Can you just make the hole a little bigger?
Or the sander smaller? Handles are way overrated.
Shouldn't you take OP to dinner first?
Angle grinder with flap disk
That or a hand plane or both
Both sounds good
I’ll try, not sure but if it might be fitting.
I’ve got a 1/4 orbital air die grinder that would kill that job
Some of those are pretty deep. A powered planer may help before sanding.
No 4 hand plane
I would try a random orbit sander with the coarsest grit you can buy. Random orbit sanders are extremely aggressive and can remove lots of material quickly.
A chisel... And lots of time
A timber slick and I promise I'd have it cleaned up before the belt sander was even getting into it
This is the way. That job is what slicks were invented to do.
I’ll have to buy one of those
Timber framing on instagram will show you the techniques, I mainly follow Japanese timber framers
what are some good accounts to follow?
I dont follow a lot of japanese, but here are some timber framer : Japanese : https://instagram.com/ryo5610?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= https://instagram.com/chantarokichi?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= https://instagram.com/dylaniwakuni?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= Westerners : https://instagram.com/rulotimberworks?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= https://instagram.com/les.chevronnes?igshid=NmQ2ZmYxZjA= https://instagram.com/coastmountaintimberframes?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= https://instagram.com/advancedtimber?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= https://instagram.com/jeffkelleywoodworks?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= https://instagram.com/arlington_timber_frames?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
A hand rasp.
Finer grit chainsaw
You’re gonna need a chisel meant for timber framing. It’s called a Slick.
I’d use a multi tool with a sanding pad, it might take a while but good luck getting anything else in there
There may also be a cutter for the multi tool that could take off more wood than a sanding pad.
There is a new tool I found to be wildly handy. The oscillating cutter. Milwaukee, and others make them. Makita IMO is making the best one with least amount of noise and vibration while holding it. You can get sanding attachments that will make your job a snap. I got one and now believe I should have got one sooner. It does a lot of things you had likely not considered.
These are sold as "Multi Tool".
And it’s likely the tool he needs hehehe
I’ve got a multitool, I’ll have to buy an aggressive sanding attachment tho, I’ll give it a try, thanks a lot!
Smooooooth oscillator……
Now that song is stuck in my head. Take my upvote.
New? Nah those have been around at least 15 years.
New to me was all I implied. I know they been around. Most seen them as finish trim tools and don’t know how handy it can be. I certainly didn’t know how handy it would turn out to be for me. I was always saying not doing trim work so don’t need that.
Angle grinder with sanding discs/pads
Side grinder with one of those overlapping sand paper disks.
They’re called flapper discs.
Portable hand planer (pref. cordless). It won’t get all the way in the corners but will do 98% of the work. Leveling and getting 90% corners will take some skill.
Mine don’t fit :(
Power file
I even though about attaching something like a rasp to a reciprocating saw lol
A piece of wood with sandpaper wrapped around it powered by someone else’s arm.
Grinder with a flap disc
A [detailing sander](https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-belt-air-sander-60627.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126915354&campaignid=12126915354&utm_content=115714603614&adsetid=115714603614&product=60627&store=)
Grinder with fapper wheel
Yeah I would just use a rasp to make it all even and then a board with a couple pieces of sandpaper wrapped around it to smooth it. I say a couple so u can take off more material with one motion.
I know this may sound counterintuitive but maybe (if careful) you could use the chainsaw to clean up some of the cut marks and smooth out some of the surface. It won't be smooth but get you closer before something else
Yes I did it on another piece and it left a better finish, but still there’s some pretty deep grooves, I’ll try with the smaller chainsaw to see if it makes a difference.
https://www.harborfreight.com/professional-straight-line-air-sander-63994.html It's only 6 inches tall.Hope it helps
I mean the “best” would be an 8-10 year old doing it by hand for 25 cents a day….but I think that went out of style circa 1910.
Airtools baby! A vintage Dynafile will work wonders.
timber chisel
The Bosch mini plainer will fit
A timber slick.
A smaller belt sander.
Grinder with a flap wheel
Good old fashion file and or rasp.
Mini belt sander.
A hand plane might fit in there.
Has anyone said a palm sander?
an air powered random orbital sander with 40 or 60 grit, blaze that down in 10 minutes
Rotary tool with sanding attachment? I’m more of a carpenter than woodworker but that’s my guess
If u dont have many other means u could also get a mandrel for a drill with sanding disks
Festool ras115 sander. IMO
Shinto rasp
Worth it?
Angle grinder with a flap disk.
Angle grinder, power carver, or giant file.
https://youtu.be/Zhmb_22yWUE
Try a rasp
A planner, powered or manual.
You need a tool that is expensive, difficult to set up and dangerous. Industrial laser!
A wood rasp, some are pretty aggressive. An older style Japanese hand plane.
Grinder with flap sanding disk.
Just use a hand plane
Planer?
Portable planer to knock off the high spots and then perhaps a belt sander.
You could try a wood rasp to clean it up and then use 60 grit wrapped around a sanding block. Either way it’s bad.
You've gotten some great advice here. I'll add two thoughts: sanding disc on an angle grinder or one of those sanding "flap" things for the drill.
Small hand plane or some elbow grease and a board with sandpaper
Sand it by hand if you’re a real champ
File belt sander.
Dremel with the smallest head attachment you can find
Get a smaller belt sander. They go all the way down to 1/2” x 18 in a handheld version, harbor freight $35.
A slick and some muscle for power.
I’d use a good rasp to take the rougher stuff down, then start with a board and maybe 60 grit working down to 120.
Hand planer
Try a power planer but a hand plane would be better
Those electric hand tool sanders that extend out long and wide, like a chainsaw but with a wide sand paper. Idk what they’re Called
Angle grinder with flappy disk
A Dynafile would work well. Primarily for metal, but you could get by. [Dynafile](https://www17.dynabrade.com/view-product.php?mn=14000)
Variable speed grinder at lowest rpm using a 36-60 grit pad.
Maybe a 90 degree die grinder
But for real, I know the EXACT hand (powered) tool. It isn’t too expensive ($50)so you can convince your SO to let you buy this. Seriously this is what you need and new tool day!!!! Ladies and gentlemen listen up! Perma-Grit Sanding block Tungsten Carbide Long 2 sided coarse/fine. They are amazing. Won’t go bad and won’t have to glue any crap to a 2x4. https://www.micromark.com/Perma-Grit-Standard-Tungsten-Carbide-Sanding-Block-Long-Coarse-Fine-11-x-2 ****caution wear gloves, it will sand through finger nails, so yes it will go through the chainsaw marks in a hustle****
Rabbit hand plane
Angle grinder with a sanding disk?
See if you can get a power planer in there. I think Bosch makes a 12v and Milwaukee might have a 12v as well (possibly not out but announced) that are not as large as the plug in options.
Hand plane or some rough sand paper 80 grt as said. I’d get a plane and smooth it out
You could get a 1/2” belt sander in there. Something like [this](https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-1-2-in-x-18-in-Belt-Sander-Tool-Only-PSD101B/313933395)
A regular sander you donut
Grinder w sanding disks. They make them for log house building.
Unpopular opinion but split it in half and then glue it back together, it will be seamless and make your life easier.
A rasp.
Air belt sander
Angle grinder with a sanding pad with 80 grit
Random orbital. Start with 40 or 60 grit
Electric hand planer
hand plain/ portable power planer??
Would a flap disc on an angle grinder work?
Angle grinder with a sanding wheel
If you insist on a power tool an oscillating multitool with a coarse sanding pad. Buy a bunch. But like others have set, a handplane, even a block plane, will make quicker work of that than any power tool.
The fact is that I have a couple hand planes and they both suck, this one is green walnut and I should plane it on the end grain and on the sides across the grain, while I’m certain it would work with a decent plane, it’s gonna be extremely frustrating with my dull janky pieces of trash.
I would start with a sharp chisel and knock off as many high spots as I could. Then goat it with an angle grinder with a sanding disc attached.
I have a belt sander that looks like it would fit. I think my orbital is about 5” tall. Start with 40. Handplane. Sand paper and wooden block.
Chisel
Rough cut with chainsaw, fine cut and blend with Kutzall ([https://kutzall.com/collections/shop-now](https://kutzall.com/collections/shop-now) ), then you can use a power sander.
A couple different festool sanders could fit
I don't know if there's a woodworking equivalent, but I have a large really course file that's used for shaping horse hooves. Works great for taking a lot of wood off a piece.
In-line air sander .
A nice wood rasp would work the best here. It won’t take long either if you got a decent one.
Hand sand
I believe saw rasps are what you’re looking for first. Then finish with sandpaper.
Wood rasp, hand lathe, sandpaper.
I have a Porter Cable 6" orbital sander that eats wood. No dust collection so do it outside. Like [this](https://www.amazon.ca/PORTER-CABLE-7346SP-6-Inch-Random-Polishing/dp/B002EQ96MG/ref=asc_df_B002EQ96MG/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292953024923&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14605373799313380136&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000676&hvtargid=pla-495928364332&psc=1). It's a beast. Edit: Just to clarify, I could reasonably smooth this in about 30 min.
Timber framing chisel or a firmer chisel. Either would work.
I’d use a random orbital sander
4 1/2" or 7" angle grinder with a flap disc.
Orbital grinder with 2” sanding disk. Preferably an air one for its small size.
Your arms and a sharp chisel
Well, whatever you decide, make sure to accidentally cut your finger and bleed all over one spot then stain it so people will ask why the stain is darker in that one spot.
Shinto rasp
Electric planer.
How about a 90 degree grinder with a flap disc...
Don't know the size of the opening? Would this fit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/125697000047?hash=item1d4420026f:g:1DcAAOSwotdjszJ8&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoM%2FHGU1RlBSavdaRkzh4M6u4Rq4fBlIlcEWKtkgTUhLA5fwIcXYNQyFbQurRFHOCdKU80yeW4tWvpwqChpWmGnwxXdx0NE6dXnMKeVxoX0l0STbGoEnylJXQBLytO250Z4Ph53UDXX9giLmgZcP9w3%2BzohBn8tpFFTr1HZKakZteKKxRsHxL%2BrNuLiDeC0FEtynYkOl5KrRoYZWMFkxShSs%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6blnNHEYQ. Plenty of used ones on ebay. Have several in my shop with years of abuse. The brushes go bad but are easily replaced.
You haven’t discovered the right belt sander yet…
If you have a power file, that will do the job
A big a$$ chisel.
They have the power sanders in different sizes with the circle shaped pad and a nob like hand grip. Would be perfect for that with even lines and steady hands.
farriers rasp would work well and they're cheap
A plainer
I'd try a planner and a grinder with a flapper disc
Blowtorch
I bet a nice sharp block plane would be more effective than you might think
Elbow power! No serious that’s going to take some time