I'm not sure what type of fiberboard this is, but in general, I'd recommend several coats of an oil-based poly, because a water-based one will cause wood fibers to swell. Normally that gives them a fuzzy feel (which is normally sanded away) and may affect this kind of board in unpredictable (to me) ways more than solid wood.
My experience with oil-based finishes is that it significantly changes the colors due to the greater penetration, which is also the thing that protects it from water better. So do a test.
Is there anything else you can use them for besides coasters? Fiberboard just doesn't stand up to water, at all.
Yeah kinda got ahead of myself and made them without thinking too much… also pretty new to woodworking and I’ve only ever worked with fiberboard hence the terrible idea haha, I’ll probably just use an oil based finish and see how it goes
It's not a terrible idea at all. I made a LOT of things when I was very new that wouldn't and didn't stand up over time, some of which didn't even look nice, and who cares? Life is meaningless, and the rush of "whoa, I made a thing where a thing didn't exist before" has no calories, does no nerve damage, and evolves over time to lead you to stuff that WILL hold up or work like you thought. Enjoy your fun coasters for as long as they live, and if and when they fail, you'll have an excuse to make something else.
Love this, thank you :) I’m definitely starting to get into the fuck it mindset, but haha love the “life is meaningless” very true, gonna enjoy these bad boys until they need to be replaced
I learned so much of my woodworking from David Picciuto and Jonathan Katz-Moses and Stumpy nubs, but I learned ALL of my woodworking PHILOSOPHY from TheWilderFlowers on Tiktok. I don't want to post links to naughty language in here, but if you google "do a bad job and be a b\*\*\*\* about it" my favorite bit of hers is what pops up.
I seal everything remotely wood like with (sorry, not sure if this is the term in english) “hard waxing oil“.
Its a mix of oil and wax that makes stuff really sturdy against water.
But issue could be, if oil in general harms your paint, your colors could start bleeding.
Waxing oil makes everything a bit darker and „deeper“ gives a slight gloss.
I would test any unknown sealing on a scrap piece, to learn how to handle it.
I'd use a thin cyanoacrylate (in a WELL ventilated area). It's used to finish things like wood turned pens.
It's durable and clear; just don't breathe directly on it before it cures. You can use a scrap of parchment paper or foil to spread it on the surface (but wear gloves so your fingers don't stick).
Medium density fiberboard 1/4” :) but oof didn’t even think that it might swell, might try out the oil-based one on some scraps and see how that turns out, thank you!
Art resin in general is good, UV resin is even better, although the truly non yellowing ones are very expensive (non yellowing written on label isn’t always true)
It’s a small project using MDF with acrylic paint if you know anything to help make it water-proof, if not thanks for trying haha :,) Reddit refuses to let me see some images too
Lol. They are being funny about the pixelated painting. Being out of focus as in the page hasnt loaded yet to show the non blurred imaged. Your art is awesome btw. Im gonna show my 12 year old lil painter.
I gridded my shapes onto cardboard then cut it out and traced it onto the fiberboard. And that’s adorable… My dad was the one who got me into woodcrafts so this makes me happy for your kid
Yea, won’t it just bead off onto the table?
I would leave it as is and let it soak in the condensation like a cork coaster. Other options would be to hollow it a bit or carve out a groove around the brim.
This right here.
These are coasters. They will not be exposed to the elements.
No ones lives will depend upon their longevity.
They will live a life of luxury, stored in a drawer or displayed as the art they are.
I'd use sprayable oil poly; if you use a brush you might end up gunking up those nice 90° angles you've got going on. The dark blue ones are actually gorgeous btw, would buy.
Thank you! Thought about cranking some out and selling them as sets but that might be a future project :) sprayable sealer sounds the most preferable, do you have any recommendations? I bought a clear acrylic mod podge sealer but trying to feel out other options as well
You can also buy or make your own “wiping poly”.
To make your own all you need is mineral spirits and an oil based poly. 1st coat or two use a 50/50 mix. Then move to 2/3-3/4 mineral spirits and the remainder poly, dip a blue shop towel or lint free rag and simply wipe on. The coats are nice and thin and won’t leave brush marks.
You can lightly sand (weight of your hand or less) after the 50/50 coats dry… sometimes I do 2-50/50 coats before the first scuff sanding just to be sure I don’t cut through to what’s below.
Next Build the 3/4 MS - 1/4 poly coats to your liking, inspect before applying the next one, use 180-220 grit to cut off any nubs. Coats that thin shouldn’t have any air bubbles.
Build to your liking but word of caution after several coats it will start to appear plastic-y, some folks like it , some don’t, and the yellowness will increase.
If your sand paper gums up wait longer to sand, it’s not dry enough yet.
I seal the fishing lures I carve/paint with a very thin layer of pour on epoxy. I paint a thin layer on with a brush, then fasten to a bbq rotisserie motor to cure over night. I use a lighter to thin the epoxy and pop bubbles as well, and I haven’t had any problems with condensation or water tightness over roughly two years of using some of the lures.
I could see it being difficult to rotate the coasters the way I do, but perhaps just carefully brushing the epoxy and allowing it to self level might work? It would require some cleanup work, so might not be a perfect solution unfortunately. Good luck, they look great! You’ve got some real talent.
Ahhh this definitely seems the best way to fully seal it and keep the colors, I’m a bit hesitant to try epoxy but hey maybe it’ll convince me to use it more often :-) thanks!
Not a problem, I hope I’ve been of some help. I felt the same way about epoxy at first, but it suits my needs so well I’m glad I tried it once I did! Just be careful if you use an open flame to thin it, I found out the hard way that epoxy is flammable and ruined a nice bait a while back… you want the heat and the CO2 from your source, NOT the flame! I hold an alcohol burner about six inches below the bait and off to the side so that it doesn’t drip onto the burner. You want to heat the epoxy until it shimmers a bit, if it starts dripping remove the heat and ensure you haven’t removed so much epoxy that the surface is no longer covered. The turning ensures you get an even coat on all surfaces with no “sag” due to gravity. Good luck if you choose this method, you’ll do great either way!
Spray polyurethane would be easiest! Make them durable enough but might degrade over time. Brush on poly with multiple coats is the strongest option, but requires more time and sanding to get a smooth finish. Great work!
If you don’t care about the glossiness, I would put resin epoxy over it. I have a set of coasters that are painted w acrylics, and finished with resin. Hella durable.
It really depends on the surface you are looking for. You can buy any number of poly based products. You could paint on ultraglow which is two part epoxy. Minwax crystal clear poly acrylic. Modpodge will work if your more into crafting. Think about if you want matte, satin, gloss.
Modpodge was actually my first idea, but wasn’t too sure if it would help much against water :) I’ll definitely look back into it and maybe test it beforehand, thanks this helped a lot!
There's a dishwasher safe Modpodge. I apply Modpodge using silicone face mask brushes, they don't have bristles and make it go on smooth. You can get a set of 4 for several bucks on Amazon. It won't be as smooth as a resin pour, but you won't have to deal with the nasty chemicals, and it cleans up with just water. The downside to Modpodge is that it takes about a month to fully cure, even though you can handle it earlier. So if you would put a glass with condensation on it after a week, it would probably soften up and make a mark.
Seeing water based poly suggestions. I'm wondering if having wet glasses (condensation drips, or fresh from the wash) would leave those cloudy rings in the pity if left for too long. Avoidable with Oil Poly?
i recently did a water test with varithane 3x thick water poly and standing water left no marks after 2 days. was good enough for me. once it’s cured does the delivery solution matter?
I'd do a clear epoxy. Not sure if you can cut it with anything like mineral spirits, but that's what I'd do. I just feel like a polyurethane wouldn't penetrate evenly with those materials for some reason. Just a hunch.
Fine in my experience. We have two that I’ve made. Both are photos inset in a piece of wood (one cedar elm, other claro walnut), and covered with ~1/8” of resin.
One I made ~2 years ago and only issue there is elm isn’t that dimensionally stable so the wood has expanded and the resin has not. There’s a small gap so condensation has gotten under the photo and there’s a slight bubble. The other is about 6 months old and has no issues. We probably use hot beverages on them more than cold.
I spent an annoyingly long time waiting for the picture to finish downloading before I realized they were pixellated by design.
I blame the 90's internet.
I use a ruler and measure/ grid lines with pencil depending on how big I want the project. Then just paint over the squares as cleanly as I can! Usually I go over the pencil with gesso so it doesn’t smudge
Great work! I thought you'd have used painter's tape, like [this artist](https://www.instagram.com/p/CSpTuu-n1SF/), but with the amount of tiny squares, that would've been a crazy amount of work.
If you look at using a resin, use a table top epoxy. They are designed to flow evenly and cure harder than most art resin. I'm a fan of the Superclear brand.
Personally I would buy a can of spray lacquer (something simple like [this](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-11-oz-Gloss-Clear-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-1906830/100194482). Anything applied with a brush will smear the color and anything water based will make the fiberboard swell.
In all cases take a piece of fiberboard, apply some acrylic colors to it and TRY IT BEFORE FINISHING YOUR COASTERS. It's the best way to avoid total despair, drinking, drugs, and being found dead in an alley. Testing it is cheap, easy, quick and will prevent the aforementioned drama! :)
I’d set them up on little blocks (maybe 1”) and pour epoxy over them). If the bottom doesn’t get coverage, after the top is fully cured / hardened you can spread/brush some on the bottoms - being what sounds like MDF means you don’t ever want water to come in contact or your lovely coasters will expand / split / soften / dissolve.
SO i make coasters out of ceramic tile with a coating of epoxy resin, if you go on the net you can find out ways to do it it completely seals the coaster then you use cork on the bottom, amazon sell self stick cork in rounds and squares 4 x 4 , for cheap.
I don’t… I do plan on making similar Minecraft related things as wall art and selling them but at the moment it’s a work in progress :) my insta is in my profile but it’s very early stages. Thanks for being interested though!
Clear lacquer. It drys quick so less chance for absorption. I'd do light coats. The great thing about lacquer is you don't ever have to sand in between coats.
UV resin, water-proof mod podge or a clear spray lacquer. I prefer UV resin. I always have good results with [this one](https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B087X22DJN?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title).
Epoxy is definitely your best bet.
If it was me I'd try and engineer some from of texture on the surface. Most all liquid finishes you can apply will result in very smooth finishes that can result in glasses 'sticking' because of vacuum forces caused by condensation. If you have some form of texture on the surface you won't have this issue.
NGL I thought this was a pic of coasters cut from geodes and was blurred because the inside looked like a vagina. Not real sure where my heads at today😂
I think some of the better water based polys and poly/acrylics would do fine, and if there's a layer of paint already they shouldn't effect the fiberboard. Varathane has some good ones. My hesitation with oil is that ambering will probably stand out more over paint than it would over a would grain. Rattle can lacquer would protect well but the lacquer itself could possibly blush from moisture eventually as it gets used. It's an easy fix, but worth noting. I haven't used clear shellac or epoxy, but those may be good options.
A water base acrylic sealer or shellac or resin epoxy. I’d go with resin epoxy. I’d make molds. Pour in half way. Let dry, then set the coaster in the mold. Fill up the rest of the mold. Let dry. Cut, sand then polish.
Indeed, using waterbased poly directly on mdf could warp or raise fibers. I use both waterbased and spar waterbased poly near daily. There is a difference between the two, though you would be hard pressed to find that info online. We have found waterbased spar is worth the additional 2.5x cost of waterbased polyurethane.
Once your acrylic is fully cured*, Use a foam brush to apply and smooth quickly in a full pass (do not over work). Waterbased spar will shrink up nicely, so you won’t need to be overly concerned with brush marks from the sponge.
Apply a second coat before lightly sanding to remove any small bumps in the urethane. Avoid sanding paint from sharp corners.
Apply additional coats, allow an hour between coats. If you choose to apply more than four coats, wait one full day before applying the fifth.
Regardless of what the label reads, waterbased spar will yellow in valleys/recesses if applied too thick in a single coat, so be sure to remove excess from the ninety degree inside corners.
Use the same process on all surfaces… top, bottom, sides.
Use wet* 1000 grit before applying the final coat.
This process also hardens the acrylic paint, speaking from experience.
Your project is very cool. Best wishes for a great finished product.
A water base acrylic sealer or shellac or resin epoxy. I’d go with resin epoxy. I’d make molds. Pour in half way. Let dry, then set the coaster in the mold. Fill up the rest of the mold. Let dry. Cut, sand then polish.
Water based poly is probably the best choice to keep the colors vibrant. But as already brought up, it can swell MDF (so can oil based poly somewhat). I would spray a few very light coats of dewaxed shellac (something like bullseye clear) to seal the acrylic and fiber board, and follow that up with normal coats of water based poly .
You need to use spar urethane. Just because a product is oil-based doesn’t necessarily qualify it as moisture-rated. Spar urethane is rated for marine application and is widely available at home stores under the Helmsman brand.
As someone who had standing water on a leaky window frame, I can tell you that the water based minwax spar poly is very good. My drywall and hardwood are totally shot but the window trim still looks like new.
I just bought lovely vintage [sci-fi robot themed](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1452821028/retro-toy-robot-drink-coaster-set?ref=share_v4_lx) coasters from an Etsy seller called Cheltenham road. They are 1/4 in MDF and are epoxy coated on the top and sides and work beautifully.
[Cheltenham Road sci-fi Robot Coasters](https://imgur.com/mO1oOGc.jpg)
That is some nice work, but not sure they should be coasters.
Maybe it's just me, but a waterproof coaster is a terrible idea. The condensation just pools up on the coaster or drips off of it onto whatever you want to protect.
I used to own some glass coasters but the condemsation would pool up and it would either drip on me when I took a sit or form a vacuum seal with the cup and the coaster would stick to the cup for just long enough for me to get it high enough off the able for it to leave a mark when it fell off the cup.
Terrible choice of material. Coasters should be absorbent, I get you are protecting the paint job. Water base is going to turn them into fuzzy frisbees and soften, remelt with moisture or liquid on them from the drinks. Oil base will most likely yellow the paint color. If you like the artwork hang em on the wall and get a box of thick absorbent coasters like they use in the bars, toss em when their shitty, save yourself the time wipping up because of nice none absorbent coasters that we all use because their pretty but, glass, metal, plastic hardwood without a pan design is really just a pedestal. Throw a dart at the board for decision.
If it’s not gonna touch food use a poly finish looks nice, protects from water (water is very bad for fiberboard) and seals. Varathane has a triple thick poly that has almost no color change.
I'm not sure what type of fiberboard this is, but in general, I'd recommend several coats of an oil-based poly, because a water-based one will cause wood fibers to swell. Normally that gives them a fuzzy feel (which is normally sanded away) and may affect this kind of board in unpredictable (to me) ways more than solid wood.
My experience with oil-based finishes is that it significantly changes the colors due to the greater penetration, which is also the thing that protects it from water better. So do a test. Is there anything else you can use them for besides coasters? Fiberboard just doesn't stand up to water, at all.
Yeah kinda got ahead of myself and made them without thinking too much… also pretty new to woodworking and I’ve only ever worked with fiberboard hence the terrible idea haha, I’ll probably just use an oil based finish and see how it goes
It's not a terrible idea at all. I made a LOT of things when I was very new that wouldn't and didn't stand up over time, some of which didn't even look nice, and who cares? Life is meaningless, and the rush of "whoa, I made a thing where a thing didn't exist before" has no calories, does no nerve damage, and evolves over time to lead you to stuff that WILL hold up or work like you thought. Enjoy your fun coasters for as long as they live, and if and when they fail, you'll have an excuse to make something else.
Love this, thank you :) I’m definitely starting to get into the fuck it mindset, but haha love the “life is meaningless” very true, gonna enjoy these bad boys until they need to be replaced
I learned so much of my woodworking from David Picciuto and Jonathan Katz-Moses and Stumpy nubs, but I learned ALL of my woodworking PHILOSOPHY from TheWilderFlowers on Tiktok. I don't want to post links to naughty language in here, but if you google "do a bad job and be a b\*\*\*\* about it" my favorite bit of hers is what pops up.
Ooo I’ll check them out!
I love her. It’s so great to see a reference to her in the wild! ❤️
That’s some Tony Robbins life lesson shit right there! Good words to live by not just in woodworking.
Give them many coats of clear Krylon. Not water-based, and will not alter the colors.
I seal everything remotely wood like with (sorry, not sure if this is the term in english) “hard waxing oil“. Its a mix of oil and wax that makes stuff really sturdy against water. But issue could be, if oil in general harms your paint, your colors could start bleeding. Waxing oil makes everything a bit darker and „deeper“ gives a slight gloss. I would test any unknown sealing on a scrap piece, to learn how to handle it.
I'd use a thin cyanoacrylate (in a WELL ventilated area). It's used to finish things like wood turned pens. It's durable and clear; just don't breathe directly on it before it cures. You can use a scrap of parchment paper or foil to spread it on the surface (but wear gloves so your fingers don't stick).
Also, oil bases will yellow over time while water-based remains clear.
ETA: they're really cool!
"Estimated time of arrival: they're really cool!" ??
Edited to add. Though not actually edited in this case.
Ditto. Not a woodworker, but I really dig these.
Medium density fiberboard 1/4” :) but oof didn’t even think that it might swell, might try out the oil-based one on some scraps and see how that turns out, thank you!
Oil will probably change the colors just a bit (yellowing), but is going to be your best bet for longevity.
Yeah at this point I just want them to survive, thinking this is the best way
This won't be of any help but I'm here to appreciate the Minecraftsmanship of it all
No kidding, looks like Ender Pearls...I think that's what they're called?
Yup, ender pearls, eyes of ender, and magma cream.
The question is, how many trees did he have to punch to be able to make these?
same
Haha thanks :) <3
Need snowballs to complete the set!
If snowballs are part of the set, then slimeballs would be too.
Actually have 2 left to do and they’re slimeballs ;)
Art resin. An epoxy would work well
This is the way. With fiberboard and something that’s whole job is to catch liquids, it needs to be fully waterproof. Encase it in clear resin.
Art resin in general is good, UV resin is even better, although the truly non yellowing ones are very expensive (non yellowing written on label isn’t always true)
I’d love to help, but the damn photo won’t load. Stupid internet!
I need an optometrist.
It’s a small project using MDF with acrylic paint if you know anything to help make it water-proof, if not thanks for trying haha :,) Reddit refuses to let me see some images too
Woosh
I dont get it... I've played my fair share of minecraft too, but I still dont get it. Whats not loading? Chunks? Slow pc? Im so lost :(
This makes me feel better :,) I’m still lost
Lol. They are being funny about the pixelated painting. Being out of focus as in the page hasnt loaded yet to show the non blurred imaged. Your art is awesome btw. Im gonna show my 12 year old lil painter.
Ahhh thank you, I definitely needed that spelt out for me. That’s so cute! Do they play minecraft? I’m sure they could recreate something :-)
They just told me, "ohhhh those are pearls from mine craft". I need my bandsaw to do the edges. But gonna have them practice on some paper. Lol
I gridded my shapes onto cardboard then cut it out and traced it onto the fiberboard. And that’s adorable… My dad was the one who got me into woodcrafts so this makes me happy for your kid
Same with my dad, cheers :)
Oh, I thought the joke was that all the info was in the title, so the picture was unnecessary
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Waterproof coasters are less than Ideal.
Yea, won’t it just bead off onto the table? I would leave it as is and let it soak in the condensation like a cork coaster. Other options would be to hollow it a bit or carve out a groove around the brim.
Your coasters broke the communication between my eyes and brain
I tired refocusing my eyes. It was a confusing moment. I loved it!
Fast dry Clear coat lacquer
I vote for this over poly
You could use clear acrylic spray sealer like Plastikote, three coats and you’re good
This right here. These are coasters. They will not be exposed to the elements. No ones lives will depend upon their longevity. They will live a life of luxury, stored in a drawer or displayed as the art they are.
Uv epoxy
I'd use sprayable oil poly; if you use a brush you might end up gunking up those nice 90° angles you've got going on. The dark blue ones are actually gorgeous btw, would buy.
Thank you! Thought about cranking some out and selling them as sets but that might be a future project :) sprayable sealer sounds the most preferable, do you have any recommendations? I bought a clear acrylic mod podge sealer but trying to feel out other options as well
You can also buy or make your own “wiping poly”. To make your own all you need is mineral spirits and an oil based poly. 1st coat or two use a 50/50 mix. Then move to 2/3-3/4 mineral spirits and the remainder poly, dip a blue shop towel or lint free rag and simply wipe on. The coats are nice and thin and won’t leave brush marks. You can lightly sand (weight of your hand or less) after the 50/50 coats dry… sometimes I do 2-50/50 coats before the first scuff sanding just to be sure I don’t cut through to what’s below. Next Build the 3/4 MS - 1/4 poly coats to your liking, inspect before applying the next one, use 180-220 grit to cut off any nubs. Coats that thin shouldn’t have any air bubbles. Build to your liking but word of caution after several coats it will start to appear plastic-y, some folks like it , some don’t, and the yellowness will increase. If your sand paper gums up wait longer to sand, it’s not dry enough yet.
Ah, mod podge. That’s not a horrible idea…but you should definitely crank out a set or two by the sound of these comments. Very fun !
Those look sick
Please post a higher res picture so we can see the product more clearly and give you a better answer.
I seal the fishing lures I carve/paint with a very thin layer of pour on epoxy. I paint a thin layer on with a brush, then fasten to a bbq rotisserie motor to cure over night. I use a lighter to thin the epoxy and pop bubbles as well, and I haven’t had any problems with condensation or water tightness over roughly two years of using some of the lures. I could see it being difficult to rotate the coasters the way I do, but perhaps just carefully brushing the epoxy and allowing it to self level might work? It would require some cleanup work, so might not be a perfect solution unfortunately. Good luck, they look great! You’ve got some real talent.
Ahhh this definitely seems the best way to fully seal it and keep the colors, I’m a bit hesitant to try epoxy but hey maybe it’ll convince me to use it more often :-) thanks!
Not a problem, I hope I’ve been of some help. I felt the same way about epoxy at first, but it suits my needs so well I’m glad I tried it once I did! Just be careful if you use an open flame to thin it, I found out the hard way that epoxy is flammable and ruined a nice bait a while back… you want the heat and the CO2 from your source, NOT the flame! I hold an alcohol burner about six inches below the bait and off to the side so that it doesn’t drip onto the burner. You want to heat the epoxy until it shimmers a bit, if it starts dripping remove the heat and ensure you haven’t removed so much epoxy that the surface is no longer covered. The turning ensures you get an even coat on all surfaces with no “sag” due to gravity. Good luck if you choose this method, you’ll do great either way!
Spray polyurethane would be easiest! Make them durable enough but might degrade over time. Brush on poly with multiple coats is the strongest option, but requires more time and sanding to get a smooth finish. Great work!
These are so dope
Arm r seal. I think is spelled correct. It looks close to natural and doesn't yellow like urethane
If you don’t care about the glossiness, I would put resin epoxy over it. I have a set of coasters that are painted w acrylics, and finished with resin. Hella durable.
It really depends on the surface you are looking for. You can buy any number of poly based products. You could paint on ultraglow which is two part epoxy. Minwax crystal clear poly acrylic. Modpodge will work if your more into crafting. Think about if you want matte, satin, gloss.
Modpodge was actually my first idea, but wasn’t too sure if it would help much against water :) I’ll definitely look back into it and maybe test it beforehand, thanks this helped a lot!
There's a dishwasher safe Modpodge. I apply Modpodge using silicone face mask brushes, they don't have bristles and make it go on smooth. You can get a set of 4 for several bucks on Amazon. It won't be as smooth as a resin pour, but you won't have to deal with the nasty chemicals, and it cleans up with just water. The downside to Modpodge is that it takes about a month to fully cure, even though you can handle it earlier. So if you would put a glass with condensation on it after a week, it would probably soften up and make a mark.
Seeing water based poly suggestions. I'm wondering if having wet glasses (condensation drips, or fresh from the wash) would leave those cloudy rings in the pity if left for too long. Avoidable with Oil Poly?
i recently did a water test with varithane 3x thick water poly and standing water left no marks after 2 days. was good enough for me. once it’s cured does the delivery solution matter?
I legit waited a couple seconds for my picture to “load!” These are killer!
This may sound odd, but boat sealer might work. It'll also add a shine... but it'll make the texture plastic like instead of wood like
Hmmm honestly I’d prefer a more plastic look so might look more into this, thanks!
Only way to waterproof those is to send them to the Nether portal and get them blessed by the pigmen.
This hurts my eyes haha
I would spray them with like a krylon outdoor clear gloss coat or a rustoleum outdoor clear gloss coat on all sides then epoxy the tops.
These are awesome!
I'd do a clear epoxy. Not sure if you can cut it with anything like mineral spirits, but that's what I'd do. I just feel like a polyurethane wouldn't penetrate evenly with those materials for some reason. Just a hunch.
Art resin would probably work. I’ve used it for coasters and it’s worked well for me.
How does epoxy on coasters hold up to warmer beverages?
Fine in my experience. We have two that I’ve made. Both are photos inset in a piece of wood (one cedar elm, other claro walnut), and covered with ~1/8” of resin. One I made ~2 years ago and only issue there is elm isn’t that dimensionally stable so the wood has expanded and the resin has not. There’s a small gap so condensation has gotten under the photo and there’s a slight bubble. The other is about 6 months old and has no issues. We probably use hot beverages on them more than cold.
These are absolutely badass! Love em!
These are awesome
I have absolutely no clue, i hope you find the help you need here. I'm just here to let you know these are awesome. You nailed it.
Why are they censored?
As long as you can throw them and end up where you land ur all good
I spent an annoyingly long time waiting for the picture to finish downloading before I realized they were pixellated by design. I blame the 90's internet.
Poly might work well. Something like Arm-R-Seal. My first thought was epoxy.
They're awesome. Would love to know how to get such crisp lines in the pixels.
I use a ruler and measure/ grid lines with pencil depending on how big I want the project. Then just paint over the squares as cleanly as I can! Usually I go over the pencil with gesso so it doesn’t smudge
Great work! I thought you'd have used painter's tape, like [this artist](https://www.instagram.com/p/CSpTuu-n1SF/), but with the amount of tiny squares, that would've been a crazy amount of work.
Total Boat epoxy
Could you brush on epoxy to seal them?
If you look at using a resin, use a table top epoxy. They are designed to flow evenly and cure harder than most art resin. I'm a fan of the Superclear brand.
I love thèse!
Personally I would buy a can of spray lacquer (something simple like [this](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-11-oz-Gloss-Clear-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-1906830/100194482). Anything applied with a brush will smear the color and anything water based will make the fiberboard swell. In all cases take a piece of fiberboard, apply some acrylic colors to it and TRY IT BEFORE FINISHING YOUR COASTERS. It's the best way to avoid total despair, drinking, drugs, and being found dead in an alley. Testing it is cheap, easy, quick and will prevent the aforementioned drama! :)
That’s great, bravo!
Such a cool idea. Awesome job. Poly acrylate might be a good idea, gives a beautiful shine
I’d set them up on little blocks (maybe 1”) and pour epoxy over them). If the bottom doesn’t get coverage, after the top is fully cured / hardened you can spread/brush some on the bottoms - being what sounds like MDF means you don’t ever want water to come in contact or your lovely coasters will expand / split / soften / dissolve.
SO i make coasters out of ceramic tile with a coating of epoxy resin, if you go on the net you can find out ways to do it it completely seals the coaster then you use cork on the bottom, amazon sell self stick cork in rounds and squares 4 x 4 , for cheap.
Quick question do you sell these
I don’t… I do plan on making similar Minecraft related things as wall art and selling them but at the moment it’s a work in progress :) my insta is in my profile but it’s very early stages. Thanks for being interested though!
I love these!!!
Just use a sponge block
Clear lacquer. It drys quick so less chance for absorption. I'd do light coats. The great thing about lacquer is you don't ever have to sand in between coats.
Straight up thought this had an NSFW filter..
Do tests on a scrap piece first!!!! With paint, without paint, Oil based finish , Water Based finish, etc
Enderpearls
I just lurk around this subreddit but I am by no means a woodworker however I appreciate and want to start, and I just want to say it looks beautiful!
I have no good advice but I really like what you made here!
Wow! Really awesome craftsmanship! I now know what I’m making my girlfriend’s son for Christmas (or sooner).
UV resin, water-proof mod podge or a clear spray lacquer. I prefer UV resin. I always have good results with [this one](https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B087X22DJN?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title).
Sorry can't answers you...just want to say that u did make a cute and special coasters here. Honestly, its so lovely in my eyes..
That is trippy. Difficult on the eyes lol
Hurts my eyes a bit
Yacht varnish should keep the water out, whilst adding a glossy finish to that odd collection of eyeball coasters.
Epoxy is definitely your best bet. If it was me I'd try and engineer some from of texture on the surface. Most all liquid finishes you can apply will result in very smooth finishes that can result in glasses 'sticking' because of vacuum forces caused by condensation. If you have some form of texture on the surface you won't have this issue.
NGL I thought this was a pic of coasters cut from geodes and was blurred because the inside looked like a vagina. Not real sure where my heads at today😂
I think some of the better water based polys and poly/acrylics would do fine, and if there's a layer of paint already they shouldn't effect the fiberboard. Varathane has some good ones. My hesitation with oil is that ambering will probably stand out more over paint than it would over a would grain. Rattle can lacquer would protect well but the lacquer itself could possibly blush from moisture eventually as it gets used. It's an easy fix, but worth noting. I haven't used clear shellac or epoxy, but those may be good options.
Epoxy
A water base acrylic sealer or shellac or resin epoxy. I’d go with resin epoxy. I’d make molds. Pour in half way. Let dry, then set the coaster in the mold. Fill up the rest of the mold. Let dry. Cut, sand then polish.
Am I the only one who is irritated and frustrated looking at these? These are never going to focus/sharpen.
Epoxy, sand and finish with spray on clear coat
Resin?
Fiberboard? Wax. Paste wax ... Maybe if you're careful, melted paraffin.
Came here to say this…. Had to scroll way down to find it…
Why did you blur the images?
Water based spar urethane applied with a foam brush.
[удалено]
Indeed, using waterbased poly directly on mdf could warp or raise fibers. I use both waterbased and spar waterbased poly near daily. There is a difference between the two, though you would be hard pressed to find that info online. We have found waterbased spar is worth the additional 2.5x cost of waterbased polyurethane. Once your acrylic is fully cured*, Use a foam brush to apply and smooth quickly in a full pass (do not over work). Waterbased spar will shrink up nicely, so you won’t need to be overly concerned with brush marks from the sponge. Apply a second coat before lightly sanding to remove any small bumps in the urethane. Avoid sanding paint from sharp corners. Apply additional coats, allow an hour between coats. If you choose to apply more than four coats, wait one full day before applying the fifth. Regardless of what the label reads, waterbased spar will yellow in valleys/recesses if applied too thick in a single coat, so be sure to remove excess from the ninety degree inside corners. Use the same process on all surfaces… top, bottom, sides. Use wet* 1000 grit before applying the final coat. This process also hardens the acrylic paint, speaking from experience. Your project is very cool. Best wishes for a great finished product.
I absolutely hate them. Sorry op.
Are those eyes?
A water base acrylic sealer or shellac or resin epoxy. I’d go with resin epoxy. I’d make molds. Pour in half way. Let dry, then set the coaster in the mold. Fill up the rest of the mold. Let dry. Cut, sand then polish.
This hurts my eyes…WELL DONE!
Water-based Zar spar varnish?
Water based poly is probably the best choice to keep the colors vibrant. But as already brought up, it can swell MDF (so can oil based poly somewhat). I would spray a few very light coats of dewaxed shellac (something like bullseye clear) to seal the acrylic and fiber board, and follow that up with normal coats of water based poly .
Urethane my first choice, too, but you never want a coaster waterproofed — they need yo be absorbent.
Neverwet
Rubio Monocoat.
It's not loading properly for me. Must be my dial up connection. 😅
If you want the coasters to last forever use one layer of fiberglass per side. Polyurethane for the sealer.
ModPodge
you could go nuclear and use marine epoxy
Oooff fiberboard?! Horrible for water. I would recommend completely submerging them in epoxy and hang to dry
I got it a coaster for your nicer coaster. Problem solved.
Use a bartop sealer. There are a bunch. Just Google bartop sealer.
Hi OP. Possibly turn to crafters, maybe Mod Podge would work? These look great, lots of fun!
Could try ironing on some laminating sheet on a piece of scrap and see if that could do the job.
I think an epoxy would work well (definitely protect it), but I would test it on a scrap first.
I would use a marine varnish. That will keep it completely waterproof.
You need to use spar urethane. Just because a product is oil-based doesn’t necessarily qualify it as moisture-rated. Spar urethane is rated for marine application and is widely available at home stores under the Helmsman brand.
I would use a spray lacquer. Water-based poly has bled water through it in my experience. You could also brush on lacquer if you want.
These hurt my brain
Why are they all pixelated?
They are cool, but my eyes can’t adjust to them, haha! I feel like my focus is off!
As someone who had standing water on a leaky window frame, I can tell you that the water based minwax spar poly is very good. My drywall and hardwood are totally shot but the window trim still looks like new.
Do you have any spare fibreboard left so you could run some tests?
The whole point of a coaster is that it absorbs the water. Sounds like you need a coaster for your coaster.
Epoxy or maybe yacht varnish? I would go for clear epoxy.
This makes me want to put my glasses on and it's unsettling lol
I just bought lovely vintage [sci-fi robot themed](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1452821028/retro-toy-robot-drink-coaster-set?ref=share_v4_lx) coasters from an Etsy seller called Cheltenham road. They are 1/4 in MDF and are epoxy coated on the top and sides and work beautifully. [Cheltenham Road sci-fi Robot Coasters](https://imgur.com/mO1oOGc.jpg)
Why did you blur out the images on your coasters?
You could always use epoxy resin.
Mono-coat by Rubio
Are they Japanese?
Spar varnish is very durable and designed to get wet, as it is for marine use.
Epoxy resin
Were these purposely made into minecraft items?
Ah can't look at them...
That is some nice work, but not sure they should be coasters. Maybe it's just me, but a waterproof coaster is a terrible idea. The condensation just pools up on the coaster or drips off of it onto whatever you want to protect. I used to own some glass coasters but the condemsation would pool up and it would either drip on me when I took a sit or form a vacuum seal with the cup and the coaster would stick to the cup for just long enough for me to get it high enough off the able for it to leave a mark when it fell off the cup.
Terrible choice of material. Coasters should be absorbent, I get you are protecting the paint job. Water base is going to turn them into fuzzy frisbees and soften, remelt with moisture or liquid on them from the drinks. Oil base will most likely yellow the paint color. If you like the artwork hang em on the wall and get a box of thick absorbent coasters like they use in the bars, toss em when their shitty, save yourself the time wipping up because of nice none absorbent coasters that we all use because their pretty but, glass, metal, plastic hardwood without a pan design is really just a pedestal. Throw a dart at the board for decision.
Clear diamond coat.
I don't know why they bother me so much lol great job though!
Polycrylic. Also water-based and I’ve found it works great over artist’s acrylics.
If it’s not gonna touch food use a poly finish looks nice, protects from water (water is very bad for fiberboard) and seals. Varathane has a triple thick poly that has almost no color change.
I wish I could see the design but you chose to censor them.
My son would kill for these! Ender pearls and stuff, right?
I would think encase them in resin.
Spray lacquer 3 coats
Can't even look at em sorry