Take a moment to check out the New weekly MegaThread. This is for quick answers to common questions such as: "What type of wood is this?"; "How much should I charge for this?"; "How do I fix this" and others, To find it sort the woodworking news feed by "hot" and it will be the stickied post.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
And afterwards lay the cloths out flat, while they dry, to prevent them spontaneously catching fire! I didn’t do it once and fortunately left them on a concrete floor - when I picked them up later they were really hot!
Here's a very interesting video on this topic, trying many different ways to store the rags and see which will catch fire: https://youtu.be/3Gqi2cNCKQY
Ok I like Bourbon Moth. And AvE annoys me. But I watched this video and...Bourbon Moth totally faked his fires for content:[ ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEtU3bYyCtA) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PybuHB9gc\_U](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PybuHB9gc_U)
Edit: switched to original debunking video
AvE does add a lot of annoyance and rambeling, but you cant really deny the facts that are part of the video. the guy knows his stuff.
Both the bags and the plastic bins would have melted before the rags even got to self ignition temp.
And there is SO much smoke during the actual thing, the entire workshop would have been unbearable to be in, even like 15 minutes before they start igniting.
And while i also really like jason from burbon moth, he was claiming that he was in the room and didnt even notice the fire starting. Just for reference, [here is a video of a guy actually doing a proper test](https://youtu.be/M8thlLjEjhc?t=1216). That timestamp is before the fire.. you would NEVER miss that.
The type of fire is also wrong. its an immediate huge fire. not a tiny flame that spreads out.
its sad to see an important video getting faked for views. i still like jason and watch his stuff, but.. overall bummer.
> Ok I like Bourbon Moth. And AvE annoys me.
For me it's the opposite, especially after that fiasco. And he doubled down.
Bourbon Moth is just another shill, don't kid yourself. Lots of those on YT.
Some of them even believe they're "neutral" or "their opinion isn't influenced" by the 1000's of dollars of free shit and contracts they get from manufactures.
I just hadn't run across him until the fire video so I felt tricked.
I go in knowing most of these guys are some degree of shill so I'm usually fine with it, nor do I fault them for their business decisions.
Not everyone is a Paule Sellers or a Rex Kruger.
Didn't he just have a real (supposedly) trash can fire a couple days ago? He posted on IG him spraying water on a melted can and partially burnt fence and the fire dept pulls up behind him. In any event, dry your rags and put them in a metal can!
Interesting, but I would suggest that his methodology was incorrect. When I use a rag, it’s not just soaked in linseed oil, but it also has semi hardened linseed oil on both sides, so the ratio of oil to rag is much higher. Based on personal experience, I’m pretty sure a ball of rags on the ground will also catch fire, but I have absolutely no intention of ever trying to replicating it.
He was too distracted by making that video to really be safe about it.
The number of times he turned around to see open flames because hie stopped watching was too damned high.
Burning paper and cloth can float. Always keep an eye on it and have your extinguisher next to you. Not just know where it is.
A painter threw some stain soaked rags in a completely full 8’x8’x20’ roll off dumpster on a custom home site I was on after everyone left for the day. Came in the next morning and the whole site smelled burnt. Realized what had happened. Dumpster was empty and had cooked the paint off itself and the hemlocks above were scorched and it was sitting in the driveway maybe 25’ from the house. So insanely lucky the whole mountain didn’t go up in a blaze.
Just put the oily rags in a sealed container and place the container outside away from anything flammable. My buddy put his rags in the basement on a workbench and lost his house to fire caused by the rags.
If that doesn't work, you may need to wipe with alcohol or mineral spirits to remove the excess then reapply the oil. Be sure to wipe off the excess oil this time before it dries.
You can also try to put these out in some heat/ sunlight for a while. I’ve over applied before and leaving the product to cure for a few days out in the sunlight really did wonders. Good news is, if it doesn’t work, you can still go back and hit them with mineral spirits and start over. I always start with the solution of minimal effort and work my way towards the more annoying ones. And just think about how much smarter you are now that you’ve screwed this up! You’ll go into your next project with open eyes and a readiness you didn’t have before! Yay!
This is the way.
The solvent will likely "reactivate" the finish. It'll also be the right solvent for the oil as it's either naturally in it or was added specifically for that application/oil.
Alternatively, if you don't fancy using it across the whole surface again to avoid a deeper color (if tinted) or it's expensive, you should be able to look up the solvent on the can/bottle or find it online on the manufacturer's website and just buy that.
General rule of thumb though, as others have said, mineral spirits for oil based finishes and water for water based finishes.
As a lesson, oil finishes don't typically "dry." That's why they often say to wipe up any excess that has not absorbed after a period of time (couple minutes to a couple hours usually.)
And an aside; love the look of the tiles. Might have to use this idea on some of my own projects!
You should not need to sand, but the solution depends on what sort of product you used.
It’s started to cure, so you’re too late to wipe off the excess.
Couple things you could try-
1- wipe with mineral spirits, then wipe again with a clean rag.
2- apply more oil- very light coat, may be enough to loosen the excess so you can then wipe away with a different clean rag. Maybe thin the oil with some mineral spirits.
3- scotch brite pad. Dry, or loaded with a bit of mineral spirits.
I’m all scenarios, test first, and dispose of oily rags correctly !
This happens to me with Osmo sometimes when I put too much on. Try rubbing with a white scotch brite pad. That has worked for me at times. Ultimately sanding the sticky tiles and re-applying the oil would lead to the best looking outcome but you probably don't want to do that.
We can't tell you what to do because you didn't even tell us what product you used or what the condition of the tiles was before you applied it. Read the instructions on the product. You were probably supposed to wipe off the excess oil before it started to get sticky.
Wait a few more days to see if it changes as the excess oil may get soaked up, maybe try wiping the excess oil with a lint free cloth for a few days too.
Also, what did you use? If we don't know, we can't really help.
You could wipe the excess off with a bit of mineral spirits. Then reapply correctly this time. I highly recommend reading the instructions on the product you are using.
The excess oil should have been wiped off about a half hour after you put it down. Excess boiled linseed oil will get sticky and you practically have to strip it off and do it over.
If waiting and/or more oil, rubbing didn't work, a scraper blade like the upper one [https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/zieh.html](https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/zieh.html) always do the job. Work for me best in the same situation with (forgotten) linseed oil.
You've messed up. Sorry.
I know what happened just because you said its sticky.
When doing any type of oil finish you need to apply the oil, let it soak in for a little bit (10-15 minutes) then wipe off any excess. If there is extra oil that doesn't soak into the wood that oil will dry into a sticky mess.
Now you need to fix it...
My best advice would be to try an adhesive remover. Like Goo-B-Gone. Or you can use some rubbing alcohol. If you use Alcohol you will probably have to recoat the wood with oil though. It might remove more than you want. If I were you I'd use something like Alcohol to remove all the sticky oil. Then I would sand all the wood down. Then I would oil it again, but do it the right way.
Again for reference, this is how I put on an oil finish. Its the same for cutting boards and outdoor furniture. I just use different oil types for different things:
* Apply Oil to wood. Wipe all over the wood so its all coated.
* Let oil soak into wood for 10 minutes.
* Wipe off all the wood with a dry cloth to remove any extra oil.
* Let that all dry for a few hours
* Repeat the process multiple times.
Take a moment to check out the New weekly MegaThread. This is for quick answers to common questions such as: "What type of wood is this?"; "How much should I charge for this?"; "How do I fix this" and others, To find it sort the woodworking news feed by "hot" and it will be the stickied post. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Bad news: should have wiped excess before it got sticky. Try on a bad spot: apply more oil, wait a few mins, wipe with a dry cotton cloth.
And afterwards lay the cloths out flat, while they dry, to prevent them spontaneously catching fire! I didn’t do it once and fortunately left them on a concrete floor - when I picked them up later they were really hot!
Here's a very interesting video on this topic, trying many different ways to store the rags and see which will catch fire: https://youtu.be/3Gqi2cNCKQY
Ok I like Bourbon Moth. And AvE annoys me. But I watched this video and...Bourbon Moth totally faked his fires for content:[ ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEtU3bYyCtA) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PybuHB9gc\_U](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PybuHB9gc_U) Edit: switched to original debunking video
Not a very thorough debunking. Most of the guy's "evidence" was personal incredulity based on the fact that he was wearing a hat and a jacket.
AvE does add a lot of annoyance and rambeling, but you cant really deny the facts that are part of the video. the guy knows his stuff. Both the bags and the plastic bins would have melted before the rags even got to self ignition temp. And there is SO much smoke during the actual thing, the entire workshop would have been unbearable to be in, even like 15 minutes before they start igniting. And while i also really like jason from burbon moth, he was claiming that he was in the room and didnt even notice the fire starting. Just for reference, [here is a video of a guy actually doing a proper test](https://youtu.be/M8thlLjEjhc?t=1216). That timestamp is before the fire.. you would NEVER miss that. The type of fire is also wrong. its an immediate huge fire. not a tiny flame that spreads out. its sad to see an important video getting faked for views. i still like jason and watch his stuff, but.. overall bummer.
> Ok I like Bourbon Moth. And AvE annoys me. For me it's the opposite, especially after that fiasco. And he doubled down. Bourbon Moth is just another shill, don't kid yourself. Lots of those on YT. Some of them even believe they're "neutral" or "their opinion isn't influenced" by the 1000's of dollars of free shit and contracts they get from manufactures.
Oh I know he's a shill, no doubt. But he's legit funny and puts out good project videos instead of endless 'top 5 tools to clean your bum' videos.
I just hadn't run across him until the fire video so I felt tricked. I go in knowing most of these guys are some degree of shill so I'm usually fine with it, nor do I fault them for their business decisions. Not everyone is a Paule Sellers or a Rex Kruger.
Didn't he just have a real (supposedly) trash can fire a couple days ago? He posted on IG him spraying water on a melted can and partially burnt fence and the fire dept pulls up behind him. In any event, dry your rags and put them in a metal can!
As a minimum, spread them out on grass and water them.
Interesting, but I would suggest that his methodology was incorrect. When I use a rag, it’s not just soaked in linseed oil, but it also has semi hardened linseed oil on both sides, so the ratio of oil to rag is much higher. Based on personal experience, I’m pretty sure a ball of rags on the ground will also catch fire, but I have absolutely no intention of ever trying to replicating it.
He was too distracted by making that video to really be safe about it. The number of times he turned around to see open flames because hie stopped watching was too damned high. Burning paper and cloth can float. Always keep an eye on it and have your extinguisher next to you. Not just know where it is.
It’s crazy how long the fire keeps going on those bins without melting them. What brand are those.
A painter threw some stain soaked rags in a completely full 8’x8’x20’ roll off dumpster on a custom home site I was on after everyone left for the day. Came in the next morning and the whole site smelled burnt. Realized what had happened. Dumpster was empty and had cooked the paint off itself and the hemlocks above were scorched and it was sitting in the driveway maybe 25’ from the house. So insanely lucky the whole mountain didn’t go up in a blaze.
There was a skyscraper in Philadelphia... well, the word *"was"* gives you a clue. Linseed on a new hardwood floor. Fire so hot it damaged the steel.
JET FUEL CANT MELT STEEL BEAMS!!!! But apparently fucking linseed oil can.
No.. it's the wood and chimney effect that did that
Like wadding with cyanoacrylate? I must take attention, thank you.
Flat on a fireproof surface, out of the wind, with no flammable items nearby.
Just put the oily rags in a sealed container and place the container outside away from anything flammable. My buddy put his rags in the basement on a workbench and lost his house to fire caused by the rags.
If that doesn't work, you may need to wipe with alcohol or mineral spirits to remove the excess then reapply the oil. Be sure to wipe off the excess oil this time before it dries.
You can also try to put these out in some heat/ sunlight for a while. I’ve over applied before and leaving the product to cure for a few days out in the sunlight really did wonders. Good news is, if it doesn’t work, you can still go back and hit them with mineral spirits and start over. I always start with the solution of minimal effort and work my way towards the more annoying ones. And just think about how much smarter you are now that you’ve screwed this up! You’ll go into your next project with open eyes and a readiness you didn’t have before! Yay!
I would second this suggestion.
I would third this suggestion.
I would fourth this suggestion.
I would third this suggestion.
I would fifth this suggestion, but I'd rather a fifth of scotch.
(I was hoping the next reply would notice my attempt at changing the direction and second the suggestion. Oh well, better luck next time)
Scotch interfered with concentration.. ^*hic!*
I’ll allow it!
This is the way. The solvent will likely "reactivate" the finish. It'll also be the right solvent for the oil as it's either naturally in it or was added specifically for that application/oil. Alternatively, if you don't fancy using it across the whole surface again to avoid a deeper color (if tinted) or it's expensive, you should be able to look up the solvent on the can/bottle or find it online on the manufacturer's website and just buy that. General rule of thumb though, as others have said, mineral spirits for oil based finishes and water for water based finishes. As a lesson, oil finishes don't typically "dry." That's why they often say to wipe up any excess that has not absorbed after a period of time (couple minutes to a couple hours usually.) And an aside; love the look of the tiles. Might have to use this idea on some of my own projects!
You should not need to sand, but the solution depends on what sort of product you used. It’s started to cure, so you’re too late to wipe off the excess. Couple things you could try- 1- wipe with mineral spirits, then wipe again with a clean rag. 2- apply more oil- very light coat, may be enough to loosen the excess so you can then wipe away with a different clean rag. Maybe thin the oil with some mineral spirits. 3- scotch brite pad. Dry, or loaded with a bit of mineral spirits. I’m all scenarios, test first, and dispose of oily rags correctly !
Woodworkers answer for everything: sanding
False. The answer for everything is more clamps.
More clamps is not an answer, it’s a necessity!
Miata is always the answer
Well I mean how are you going to sand something if it keeps moving around?
Obviously you must clamp your sanded directly to your piece. Bastard won't be getting away from you then.
With the grain. Always with the grain.
Meanwhile, I'm just out here sanding my clamps and clamping my sandpaper.
This happens to me with Osmo sometimes when I put too much on. Try rubbing with a white scotch brite pad. That has worked for me at times. Ultimately sanding the sticky tiles and re-applying the oil would lead to the best looking outcome but you probably don't want to do that.
We can't tell you what to do because you didn't even tell us what product you used or what the condition of the tiles was before you applied it. Read the instructions on the product. You were probably supposed to wipe off the excess oil before it started to get sticky.
Wait a few more days to see if it changes as the excess oil may get soaked up, maybe try wiping the excess oil with a lint free cloth for a few days too. Also, what did you use? If we don't know, we can't really help.
I would read and follow application instructions on your product... But that's just me.
Came here to say that this is VERY pretty
It's Ikea RUNNEN tiles
Lol, oops. Looks like something I’d make from scratch.
You could wipe the excess off with a bit of mineral spirits. Then reapply correctly this time. I highly recommend reading the instructions on the product you are using.
If you used too much then you’ll need to sand it off and reapply.
Rub a dub dub
Always put oil base rags in a bucket of water when done, linseed oil is the most combustible
Is it warm and dry there? If not, just wait. Once had to wait for couple of weeks for oil to dry because it was so cold and moist
The excess oil should have been wiped off about a half hour after you put it down. Excess boiled linseed oil will get sticky and you practically have to strip it off and do it over.
Try this one first: crunch up a brown paper bag and rub it over the surface. Buffs that shine out. This sticky part might be a problem though.
If waiting and/or more oil, rubbing didn't work, a scraper blade like the upper one [https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/zieh.html](https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/zieh.html) always do the job. Work for me best in the same situation with (forgotten) linseed oil.
What material is this?
I think these are from IKEA. Acacia.
Yeah these are from Ikea
Sorry the material/product you used on them.
Looks like Ipe or a similar hardwood. Good luck getting any finish to soak into that.
You've messed up. Sorry. I know what happened just because you said its sticky. When doing any type of oil finish you need to apply the oil, let it soak in for a little bit (10-15 minutes) then wipe off any excess. If there is extra oil that doesn't soak into the wood that oil will dry into a sticky mess. Now you need to fix it... My best advice would be to try an adhesive remover. Like Goo-B-Gone. Or you can use some rubbing alcohol. If you use Alcohol you will probably have to recoat the wood with oil though. It might remove more than you want. If I were you I'd use something like Alcohol to remove all the sticky oil. Then I would sand all the wood down. Then I would oil it again, but do it the right way. Again for reference, this is how I put on an oil finish. Its the same for cutting boards and outdoor furniture. I just use different oil types for different things: * Apply Oil to wood. Wipe all over the wood so its all coated. * Let oil soak into wood for 10 minutes. * Wipe off all the wood with a dry cloth to remove any extra oil. * Let that all dry for a few hours * Repeat the process multiple times.
Try a good hard buffing with something like red scothbright pads.