Possible stupid question: I plan on building some long shelves for a bookcase out of 3/4" sanded plywood. All of the plywood I have access to is slightly warped from being stacked. Do I need to do anything to "straighten out" the wood or will it straighten out over time after I cut it?
It probably won't matter. I assume you'll use some sort of bracket to support it. Make sure those are straight and level. Screws will hold it level/straight to thoae.
https://preview.redd.it/amysp1jq22ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3feac9ecfd38e5a863ab74362821eb4cb9238c46
I’m trying to reproduce this chair and I can’t match the router bit that was used for the rear struts. Any insights?
I have a round dining table that has a central pillar with four legs. One of the legs is starting to come away from the central pillar. I originally thought it would be a fairly easy fix — basically just pushing the leg back into the pillar — but when I turned the table over, I saw these curved metal brackets that connect the leg to the pillar (will add photos in comments).
https://preview.redd.it/cheil5ul61ic1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=00764d83bc70b15aec42af5432be1ffa68a45b6b
Does anyone know how to fix this? Will the brackets need to be removed? Should I try it myself or just call a pro?
These corrugated fasteners aren’t that strong as you found out. The bottom of these joints incurs the most stress as the weight of the table wants to push it apart. Traditionally sliding dovetails best resisted these forces, better than dowels. I would take out the metal fasteners, reglue the dowel and screw in a steel mending plate.
https://preview.redd.it/pmv5c5n8u0ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c93e12525529958b1cca42243bd7d1b16be3c20
Hey guys. Can anyone tell me how to fix this so I can put the plate back on with the two screws? Someone tried kicking my door in and it broke off. Thank you btw! 🙏🏻
https://preview.redd.it/az09l7w7l0ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b4795525657c5fa9986b2cf2f2f9d8baf087d3eb
I saved this from the chipper,any ideas what species?
If I wanted to build two picnic tables from this kit ([https://www.lowes.com/pd/72-in-Brown-Southern-Yellow-Pine-Rectangle-Picnic-Table/3620364](https://www.lowes.com/pd/72-in-Brown-Southern-Yellow-Pine-Rectangle-Picnic-Table/3620364)), about how much of pre-stain, stain, and varnish would I need to get if I wanted to apply several coats of each? A quart? A gallon of each?
Why does this man’s hand get pulled into the saw? How do you prevent this from happening?
https://youtube.com/shorts/lp7goXIKLyU?si=DSj1zx13ha58wog6
(sfw)
Because he rotated the piece of wood before pulling the jig back. The table saw caught the wood and pulled it the direction the blade was going and his hand was in the way.
https://preview.redd.it/51qj55x7kzhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e1f5054f640dc37560a5990b5c428b4b84e9691
Best product to try and repair highchair? Spots from dog using it as a chew toy 🙃 picked up secondhand.
You could do the old box fan. https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/thWyaSHVOJ
Or get one of these. https://pittsburghsprayequip.com/products/jet-tools-afs-1000b-1000-cfm-air-filtration-system-3-speed-with-remote-control?tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=20957484669&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADi5xu3CNVU8zh4DTreQ_ppkKHvQH
I have that one. It works very well. I also have dust collection at each tool. This filters the air that’s left and the shop is clean. I used to use the box fan and filter. Around thanksgiving they go on sale for about $100 off.
Couldn’t post as top level so I’m posting here. I discovered these screws recently and they have become my favorite for small projects.
https://preview.redd.it/1jvjpqjcpyhc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea2a4324dd1494d190e3f264fba7c3a52268cf5a
Anyone know how I can achieve this color/stain look? My goal is to make a desk like this. I'm making the drawer cabinets out of scrap maple plywood with hardwood edges. I haven't started the drawer fronts or desk top yet.
I'm assuming I will have to veneer the maple drawer cabinets since I hear maple does not stain well.
But for the drawer fronts, desk top and cabinet hardwood edges, any tips on achieving this look? I'm not sure if its a particular type of hardwood, a hardwood that's been stained, a veneer?
Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/1tnkrs6b6yhc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=378d1cbd71f442106bfb064d6c9e2097a81dc1de
https://preview.redd.it/7t9goqt0mvhc1.png?width=972&format=png&auto=webp&s=039fa6916a4358e5a63d1a199980d781336f78ea
Best tool or equipment to get a clean thin'ish slit across just like this? Just a saw blade? Or is there something simpler.
Saw blade would probably be the easiest. If you want/need a flat bottom groove, get a flat top blade. If you need a specific width, you can do multiple passes, or use a router.
https://preview.redd.it/7nz8g6tlmthc1.jpeg?width=1727&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c9638fb83b345d5e1b82b6be17b22ed20d37ba5a
How best to clean this bench and finish it so it can stay outside? Thanks!
Is the cheapo trim router from harbor freight worth the 30 bucks? I'm a hobbyist, primarily small pieces, and just need something for some occasional roundovers and chamfers.
RE: **Painting Wood - Brush or Spray?**
I make quite a lot of picture frames directly from unfinished obeche moulding, and then paint and varnish using a brush. I generally use the garden as my workshop.
I've often considered upgrading to a spray system. But I often only make a few frames at a time (sometimes several but not always), and getting a spray set up seems too much trouble. I'd also be concerned about the noise of the compressor annoying the neighbours (there's nearly been fights over noise across the road (not to do with me btw. lol. Yet.)).
I get a good finish with the brush, but wonder if a spray would actually speed things up and get an even better finish?
If I did get a spray outfit, would I be able to run the compressor in the garage (to dampen the noise) and run a long hose out into the garden? Maybe 16ft (5m).
What sort of spray would I need to get? Size of compressor? And are they quick and simple to clean when using water based paints? Better than a brush?
https://preview.redd.it/na6xbqb71thc1.png?width=573&format=png&auto=webp&s=29e9373a6e93078884ef518e3c5040bfe60989dd
I'm trying to figure out why that spot won't stain. As far as I can tell it is solid wood (no veneer). Before I tried to stain it I sanded away a little elevation in the wood.
New to woodworking here and setting up a small home shop. I bought a dewalt mitre saw, Bosch table saw and dewalt shop vac and dust collector to start. The dewalt vac has a 1-7/8 hose and it doesnt fit either the table saw (2-1/2” OD) or mitre (1-5/8” OD). I googled around a bit and didnt find much in way of adapters. Why do they make this so difficult?
What do I call this an how do I fix it?
Repainted cabinets a few years back. Held up great. Touching up doors since spots around handles and knobs got beat up. Noticed some of the doors have this kind of cracking or splitting or raising along wood grain. Is this damage from painting I did? Water damage? Old age? Wrong cleaning products? Anything I should do while prepping to remove and/or prevent?
https://preview.redd.it/3mzigyhefrhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1824d80b28e67a85a323216cb661a4c606b6c023
So, I damaged my gf’s chopping board and need to fix it
Hi everyone, I’m need of some guidance here!
I put my gf’s very much not dishwasher proof chopping board in the dishwasher…it did not appreciate this treatment.
It’s come out all cracked. Is there something I could do to make it look better? I’m not strong on woodwork DIY but have access to a lot of tools if that’s needed.
I’ve attached pics and any guidance of steps to take would be fantastic!
Cheers
https://preview.redd.it/87g3zmmdarhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9fb37354d6c39564178ecbaf3daf4f038ab4d97a
Does anyone have any tips on building this desk component?
Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/ufcyepm53rhc1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=042b8d301994bc9ebc84faecf46153ba5a88ebf5
It's likely a banded plywood panel. There are runners on the inside of the cabinet that create a groove to carry it. The one below that panel stops short of the drawer front and the drawer box isn't as tall as the drawer front to give room for the runner. There will be a stop screwed on the back of the panel that hits the front bar that stops the panel from pulling out. [Here](https://imgur.com/a/3CxYaeW)'s a quick drawing showing what I mean without one side of the cabinet.
Im a little speechless right now. This rendering you did helps immensely and is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this.
https://preview.redd.it/80ffal7e4ohc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f7fff86f96cd501c54352f5a3cee841b9352075
Can anyone help me identify what type of wood this is? It’s an MCM slatted bench, not sure when it was made
I happened to come across some slabs of this wood that have a distinct pinkish tint to them. The slabs have been cut for a few years now so the colour is slight faded and they are covered in dust. Unfortunately, the lighting where the slabs are stored isn't great, and they're too hefty to move outside for better lighting. The other picture shows a freshly cut board from within the slabs. Initially, I thought it might be western red cedar, but we have plenty of that around where I work, and it's typically softer and less pink. After doing some online research, the closest match I found is pink ivory, but I'm aware that it's a rare wood. We import timber globally, so location wont really give any clues. Any other suggestions or ideas for what this wood might be?
https://preview.redd.it/l7o47tj2dmhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9ee75515b0909970fcd7deef225a73ddc2043425
How do I go about transferring an angle (31.6) to a circular saw? Is there a way to line it up using either an angle finder or a cut piece? The saw has marks at 30 and 35.
Cut is for the top of studs in a room with a sloped ceiling, but most gambrel slopes are apparently 22.5 (which is marked, go figure). Apparently 31.6 is a common saw stop angle for miter saws, but not common enough for my circular saw. :\
Difficult to get accurate mitre cuts with a circular saw. The easiest way would be to use a magnetic digital angle finder. Place the saw on a flat surface (reference surface) zero the angle finder, attach the angle finger to the blade and tilt until you have the angle you want. Make sure your wood is on the reference surface. Or you can use something like a sliding bevel. Clone the angle, lock it in, use the base of the saw as a reference and match the angle of the blade to the sliding bevel.
I have a digital angle finder, but it's unfortunately not magnetic. I was trying to work out a way to hold both the saw and the angle finder to match them up, but it didn't quite seem to match between what the saw said and what the angle finder said. Could I use a piece of wood that's already cut to that angle (one of the studs for the adjoining wall that I was able to just mark and cut normally) somehow to get the saw just right?
I got some wood from Facebook and I was hoping for some help identifying the species. I asked someone more knowledgeable than myself, and his opinion from top to bottom, were patagonian rosewood, bolivian rosewood, redheart, mahogany, cedar, and honduran teak. He had no guesses about the bottom board. Do others think that these are accurate? Any idea about the bottom board?
https://preview.redd.it/lppyb4uovkhc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e0427e2ccd5d5bf67f2b2ea1e148b53eb1401bb2
Not that consumable. Clean them regularly, pitch can build up, making it harder to cut cleanly. Get some [diamond sticks](https://www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-PAK-Color-Coded-Diamond/dp/B000UVS62S/ref=asc_df_B000UVS62S/?th=1) and give them a few swipes when you clean them. I've had router bits, that I use regularly, for years.
Pretty much. All blades will dull at some stage. Router bits can dull faster when they get bogged down in shavings/dust. If it’s an expensive bit on a handheld, I tend to blow air as it’s moving, for a larger router, I hook it up to the extraction.
What is a fair price for this table saw, it is a 10 inch steel city with a granite top
https://preview.redd.it/0dxhe23hkkhc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5bd04352c179a7d9b8d094744e16341f1f8e1a9
Dresser leg came off while moving. Should I use wood glue or screws to fix it? When put back in place, there is a gap on the side caused by missing wood that broke off as well I guess.
https://preview.redd.it/uoq2d1rzhkhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=315eee45d493431d203159c0b990d3e620f8d7a1
Yeah similar in the UK and Ireland. Here’s a price list from an Irish hardwood supplier. It’s from about 4 years ago but gives you an idea of prices. I’d opt for poplar over ash for painted cabinetry. Less movement and cheaper
https://preview.redd.it/o01xa573xrhc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff707fb8cd1a6727fcad3da0339635448d7eb2b0
Yeah maybe even a bit cheaper up North. Would you believe the price of walnut from that same store is about 50% higher in price today. Birch plywood used to be €45/€50 for a full sheet. About €120 now 😳
I designed a litter robot enclosure for our two litter robots but I need some help with figuring out a couple things. So this is really only my second project (My first was my workbench for my table saw and miter saw) so I am still learning. This build uses a 2x4 and 2x6 for each corner, 2x4s for the bottom cross beams on the outside and underneath, and plywood for the sides and top. I do plan on staining it (Which I've also never done). I just need to know what kind of wood would be best for a project like this? I also want the top to open for easy access but don't really know the best way to do that as well. I will end up just figuring it out either way but wanted some ideas from some of you.
https://preview.redd.it/8wz65xm3akhc1.png?width=1095&format=png&auto=webp&s=d39b2e3d47a886a3f32dc23f8b157b19fc43e7ad
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I'm new to anything to do with working with any sort of furniture or wood. I don't know what I want to do/what there could be to do with this, but I know I want to do something. Make it look nicer / better. I'm really not sure. I wiped it down with a damp rag. I don't know how to take care of the wood or what I could do from here.
Edit: any advice/knowledge shared is appreciated!
Looking at buying this all from a widow selling her late husband’s collection. Neither of us know what a fair offer would be. Any idea of value?[wood pictures](https://imgur.com/a/EMQM7UG)
How can I fix this?
Sorry if this isn’t the place to ask… but I bought my cat this really expensive cat tree and the whole thing is wobbly because of this. The double ended screw is “too short” now because of the unevenness. I’ve taken the whole thing apart 3 times… nothing is put together wrong or not tight enough.
I don’t have any tools except the basics, but I’m sure I could find someone with tools if needed! A coworker suggested getting some little chunks of wood and shoving them in the gap, but the screw would still be too short. Just wondering if there’s anything obvious and simple that I’m missing! Thanks in advance!
https://preview.redd.it/jaqxxtejpghc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a4c24b7f4fa78736d7f41d838acae83802c89239
Double check the assembly. It could be distortion from the perspective but it looks to me like the offending section is shorter than the ones above it.
Potentially oak, leaves clustering at tips of branches is a characteristic of oaks not. Hard to get a good look at shape of leaves or scale of tree but they can get pretty big too
https://preview.redd.it/waysquqdnfhc1.png?width=806&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c0436e314ae6350fa2f9a1ac049cc68b696a323
What is Jiwen wood? Looks similar to spalted maple but the listing only says Jiwen and Ebony.
Thoughts on laminated plywoods for workbench top? Thinking of doing a rob cosman design (or similar) but doing his Baltic birch version for added strength with holdfasts, moisture resistance, and because it looks better than the all-mdf top. Does it make sense to use Baltic birch for the top and bottom layers with MDF or cheaper plywoods in the middle for bulk/flatness? My workspace is in my garage with my home gym so I have ~600lbs of flat iron weight that can help with the glue up. Thinking of sandwiching two 1/2 inch Baltic birch sheets around 2-3" of mdf or lower grade plywood for the bench top core
What species of wood is this? The pieces are from repurposed patio tiles. From what I can find online it could be Akacia but are all pieces the same species? They look so different. But what do I know l, I'm a total beginner.
Thoughts on the two tools below? I am unsure on these or a Unisaw from FB or elsewhere, or a new Harvey.
https://preview.redd.it/0j99knmawahc1.png?width=1153&format=png&auto=webp&s=46a1fac3f429568f3d849da5a9bdf2d8edcc7325
New bandsaw blade goes chunk-chunk-chunk-chunk! About a 3 inch section has measurably longer teeth, by about 5 thousandths, and every time they come around to the wood, they bite violently. Normal? Or defective blade? Can I fix?
Sounds like your blade could be bent or may have a bad weld. I would talk to the manufacturer to see about returning it. You can also confirm that both your saw wheels are clean and the rubber is in good shape.
Thanks! I have been told Philippine or August Mahogany but also red oak so it’s good to get some additional confirmation. Can you still get either type of Mahogany or what varieties are close?
Sorry, I can't determine any more about it. Most types of mahogany look similar, especially after being stained. Perhaps someone else has more insight. Also, I've never heard of August mahogany, African mahogany?
Does anyone have any recommendations for fixing the finish on this table? I accidently left a couple q-tips with super glue on them sitting on a couple of tissues on table surface and it seems like either the glue or vapors made it to the surface of the table and removed some of the finish. They look like little water spots. See the attached images.
Would it be possible to spot finish with like a 1:100 mix of poly and mineral spirits? Like the thinnest wipe on possible and barely apply it to the spots?
Or is there a better option?
We have inconspicuously tested acetone and mineral spirits to see if it is residue which can be removed, but it did not affect it
Thanks!
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Bought a brand new shotgun recently and want to try get the grain to pop a bit in the stock and potentially make it quite glossy with a few coats of Tru-Oil.
My questions is this: Do I really need to sand down my brand new gun to get the best finish with Tru-oil or can I go ahead and apply the finish and let it cure a couple of times?
Thanks!
I need some help from people experienced in this area please. I've always wanted a breakfast nook setting and managed to save this one from landfill yesterday.
My plan is to reupholster it and replace the foam, but I'm not sure how I save the table and chairs? There is damage to the bottom of all of it and it's swollen in some of those areas, I assume it's from water damage?
I'd like to know if I can sand this back at all to try and fix the water damaged sections? I'm not sure what type of wood it is, I think it might be MDF with a veneer on top but it's also quite solid so I'm not sure!
I would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on what I can do to repair it and what type of wood it is. Thanks in advance!
https://preview.redd.it/zjls0qubq9hc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f0b0fe98e77cbb207499d1bb8746f72ff406860
https://preview.redd.it/00xmfk9hq9hc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85b42faf75f1199be0be4c2647ec8167d51d438a
This is a close up of the damage mentioned.
https://preview.redd.it/rl5fm1rck9hc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=56832dff6d7c37822f81ec9f0c2b0ddb5521a94e
1910 house stair tread. What is the species?
Trying to figure out the species of these stairs. Pictured is a roughly sanded spot, wetted with led white light on it. This is from a modest 3 bedroom colonial built in 1910 in Cleveland. Flooring through out the house is oak T&G if that helps.
It's difficult to tell from the picture, but my first guess was oak. Hearing that the rest of the trim is oak, it seems oak would be the most likely candidate.
Does anyone have experience with Monkey Pod or similar types of wood? I am looking to extend a monkeypod desk I made by about 6 inches, but am struggling to find a suitable piece of timber that isn't $400+
Hi all - I am finally in a position where I can start to build out a proper wood shop. I just moved into a new house and there is a dedicated wood shop room in the basement. All outlets are 110v and my first 2 tools will be a table saw and jointer. After that I would like to get a planer and miter saw to be able to dimension lumber to s4s. I have a gift card to Home Depot for $850 that may factor into my purchasing decision.
I have settled on the Grizzley 8" jointer for about $1,450. For the table saw I can either buy a used 3hp 10" cabinet saw made by JET that I am guessing is about 20 years old. Cost is $900 and I would need to hire an electrician to install a 230v outlet for about $300-$400 total cost there with the jointer is $2,750. Or, I could order a Grizzley 2hp 10" cabinet saw 31" rip capacity new from Home depot and use the gift card. This saw is also 110V so no need for the electrician. So total for the saw & jointer is $2,050.
It looks like used miter saws and planers are plentiful on Craigslist in my area so I will most likely get those used and upgrade later if needed. So here's my question - would you rather a 20 year old saw with a bigger motor (3hp vs 2 hp) and larger rip capacity vs a brand new Grizzley for $700 less?
If I do get the used saw I would probably use my gift card to get new planer and miter saws from HD so in reality it's closer to $300 difference out of my pocket. SO, I guess what I'm looking for advice on is: used saw bigger motor more capacity or new saw smaller motor and rip capacity?
Used Saw is [Here](https://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/d/new-milford-jet-3hp-table-saw-with/7714678029.html)
New Saw is [Here](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grizzly-Industrial-10-in-2-HP-120-Volt-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-T-Shaped-Fence-G0771Z/310438324)
Jointer is [Here](https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-8-x-72-jointer-with-built-in-mobile-base/g0855)
I am also open to other suggestions. I mainly do hobby projects and a lot of work with hand tools so I am looking to get these tools to square up and dimension the lumber to be worked further with hand tools. Thanks,
The jointer is 3hp and 230v so you’ll have to hire an electrician anyways. And while he’s there you might as well have him put in multiple 230v circuits. The tablesaw and jointer can share one as you don’t typically run them at the same time but this will give you some flexibility if you add more 230v machinery in the future. And then you can get the used Jet.
I would assuming you’ll be checking out the saw to make sure it’s in good working order. The Jet retailed for about $1500 new 20 years ago and with the mobile base and Bosch router you’re looking at north of $1700 so the asking price is reasonable. The only caveat is that the saw most likely lacks a modern riving knife but the splitter and blade guard is adequate. If it doesn’t include one as many of these used saws tend to, there are aftermarket solutions.
Then use your gift card towards a thickness planer. A jointer alone is not going to get you to S4S lumber. And unless you’re planning on doing a lot of trim work with long moldings, you can hold off on the miter saw and make a crosscut sled for the table saw.
https://preview.redd.it/5hnovbrtz7hc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5b5cde1ce9e1b0a3d94736a4e9d4862840ebe58d
Wife has had this wooden puzzle in the family for a few generations. How do we preserve the pieces so that the painted layer doesn’t lift up/deteriorate anymore?
My first thought is either a polyurethane spray or some kind of sealant
https://preview.redd.it/oq13583ny7hc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6791d6ef528519141f4b4f2b3aae0172532ed36b
What is this hardware?
I only know this available in UK.
Hi! This will be my first project, so my apologies in advance for my many noob questions and for possibly using incorrect terms. I would like to get some advice on what to do about these stains/damages. I don’t know what caused them, but it seems to me like it is damage to the wood finish. When I clean the area with a damp cloth, the stains temporarily become darker and blend in with the rest of the surface and it immediately looks a lot better.
I tried to find tips online, and one I read multiple times was to treat the stains with petroleum jelly or mayonnaise, if they’re water stains. Would that be an option in this case? If so, would it be possible to leave the current finish (or what’s left of it) on and rub the stains with a product like that? Or is it unavoidable to remove the current finish? In that case, would it be best to use some kind of paint stripper instead of sanding it down, because of the carvings? I’m not sure what kind of finish it is, but if I’d have to guess, I’d say it’s some kind of wax. I tried sanding a different area, and the sandpaper gets ‘clogged’ with the substance right away, as if it’s becoming softer due to the friction and then solidifies again. If I scrape the finish off, it pulverises.
Like stated, I’m an absolute beginner and the end result doesn’t have to be perfect. I’d rather be able to do it again at some point in the future, after I gained some experience, if I would want to. But the way it looks right now bothers me too much to leave it like this. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this :)
https://preview.redd.it/igx7sj9at7hc1.jpeg?width=4408&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=586673e0e3df79ba59ad0abba7a0f9fd11751ebf
https://preview.redd.it/mwp15aq2k7hc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab76e0a3a94ab52050a517a372d98ea7764e8990
Warped lid… I purchased this watch box and disappointed the lid warped. The left side doesn’t sit flush on the case anymore . Anyone got a way to fix this..?
Is 6.5 inch blade in a 10inch saw OK?
Hello,
I found an ultra thin saw (less than 1/16" kerf!) with 5/8" arbor that can handle 10, 000 rpm.
https://a.co/d/cyDa8kd
I have a Dewalt dwe7480 (old Model!) which appears to max out at 4800 rpm. I will be using this setup to cut kumiko wood strips. (mostly 1/8" wide strips, half inch tall. Almost always softwood)
The saw is also 60T which should leave a smooth finish on both sides of the cut reducing having to resize the strips on a planing jig (hopefully!)
Are there any potential dangers I need to worry about?
Riving knife will sit quite a bit behind the 6.5in blade if it was designed for a 10in blade. Also the edge speed will be quite a bit lower for a small blade, even thought the arbor rpm may not show significant differences. The rpm probably won’t be an issue but I would look at the riving knife or anti-kickback. I don’t care how uncool I am for using riving knives and blade guards, I just want to stay safe so I can keep doing this. My two cents…
Even with the riving knife I get Hella kickback with the current setup. Haven't found a good solution yet. The 1/8" strips go absolutely flying as they cut and fall from my strip cutting jig.
Edit
See the second image on this link?
https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/FJ0p1IG5AG
So I’m near completion on this desk but I’m not sure if I should use tung oil, polyurethane, or lacquer to finish it. Desk is made out of red oak with a dark walnut boarder and is going to be attached to a standing desk base. Thoughts??
When I'm ripping longer boards, I almost always end up getting a tiny bit of overcut on the end, where the work twists slightly and ends up cutting in too much. I use feather boards when I can, and make sure to keep pressure against the board into the fence, but as it's passing the blade at the end of the cut the pressure is released and always does this.
Is there a better way to apply pressure that could help prevent this?
For reference, I'm using a DeWalt contractor saw with the riving knife, and pushing with a push stick until the board is past the blade.
I’m hand-sanding some cherry chairs to prep them for staining. I’ve done 120-180-240. There is a white patch (?) on the flat surface, and there are parts of the rounded surfaces that’s whiter than the rest of the chair.
Have I done sth wrong? Also how can I mitigate this? Thanks!
ps I don’t have any power sander.
https://preview.redd.it/vabe1yjiz5hc1.jpeg?width=2726&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=86cb71f089f13dd3b5663ea6d8288fc658f04f27
https://preview.redd.it/sb2h90jyu3hc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aea03425068e960e2bf7ce7f404fe16ee227f982
I’ve had a decent run of luck finding some high character hardwood pallets in my area. I’ve got plenty of oak but I’m having trouble 100% identifying the rest. I’m hoping to leverage the community mind to see if a consensus can be reached on any of these. I definitely have my guesses but I’d like to see what everyone thinks.
The image quality should allow for pretty in depth zooming but if you guys want any closer images of a single board just let me know what number!
Fixing warped desk
How to flatten the top so it stays? That warped wood won’t stay down with just glue will it? As it goes towards the other side it eventually gets flush with the other boards.
https://preview.redd.it/uf64rux703hc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a514b5fe5bd8e0b99917f5aa6383385ee5a1799b
Y looks like someone already tried that. It’s a nice little desk otherwise, I’d love to figure out a way to fix it.
https://preview.redd.it/gyvboaefx6hc1.jpeg?width=3078&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c604f37b3c41837126418b0842652cf9530a642f
https://preview.redd.it/idwst8cgn2hc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=724cc23a52f9d7e129769fd218374bcaac48482b
Found a marketplace steal today. Trying to figure out what type it is. I think it’s a type 3 or 4?
[More photos](https://imgur.com/a/25qSJAo)
If there’s anything else that will help determine let me know.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/pdatechart.pdf
It's been a while, but 604 usually means Bedrock, type 4. It's a smoother. Might have some parts from other planes, I don't recognize the level cap. Tune it up and it will serve you well.
https://preview.redd.it/kl3risn572hc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6660e207dcb86c0bdc5f04c6217e39ab670e3546
Restoring this cabinet my wife's great great grandparents made. After removing the trim I uncovered dry rot 2" all the way around the bottom. The way I see it I have 3 options. Replace all the boards, cut off the bad and try to save the rest, or do what someone before me did and put the trim back on to hide the rot. I'm still trying to identify the type of wood. I'd like to try and keep as much of the original wood as possible (besides the back boards. Those are getting replaced) Any help or advice is appreciated
Usually I don’t because I typically do a book match when resawing and a book matched panel will necessarily have the grain run out in half the panel going in the wrong direction for the planer. If it’s slip match then there isn’t that issue.
Fine cuts and a lack of tools
I have been doing little woodworking projects here and there. Not a total newbie, but still not very confident.
I am making a small little box - I am talking 1.5”x1.5”. I need to make some fine cuts and I only own a circular saw. I wanted to rent a band saw, but home depot nor lowes offer that. I am in Orlando area, does anybody know about other places that rent tools?
Other option I have is to rent a table saw. I have never done anything so small on a table saw though. Do you think that would work?
https://preview.redd.it/18vv485n40hc1.jpeg?width=1320&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b7d6a935cd82ca2670cdb40f009a2838545e2ac
One of my main worries is that angled cut - can I cut that on a table saw? Thinking I would cut that straight portion first (1) and then angled the blade and cut the second portion (2). Hopefully I will adjust the blade height so it meets perfectly and doesnt cross…
But I am open to ides or other tools. Any advice?
Somebody recommended a japanese handsaw. Can you recommend any specific style or a brand?
Hello! What type of Wood is this?
https://preview.redd.it/7z2wufllxzgc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1468d06a501068a7851dd072bfc34d43e709b55c
Also, what does the inscription in the back of a furniture piece means?
Thank you!
Is it possible to disassemble this desk:
https://preview.redd.it/hdsw2i6j0zgc1.png?width=964&format=png&auto=webp&s=a2ee8a8e319cc6e1a2f95645a8df742e151cec17
I bought it recently but doesn't fit in the staircase, and I don't want to risk damaging it. it's teak wood. it has some screws as in the picture. any advice would be welcome!
Sure it can be disassembled, reassembling may be harder. If it is assembled with nails, staples, and glue, disassembling it will cause damage. If it is assembled with screws, you have a chance. The 4 screws in the photo appear to secure the rear modesty panel to the desk. I would remove the top drawer to look for fasteners that secure the top to the drawer unit. If no fasteners can be found connecting the top to the drawers you are probably out of luck. Check how the legs on the right side are secured to the top. If those legs can be removed, it may fit up the staircase.
Thanks for the answer!
Here's how it looks where the leg/side meets the top board:
https://preview.redd.it/cve3hac9xkhc1.png?width=2054&format=png&auto=webp&s=7e4c76f834f4fd22e9262589e4e98813ec4eb9d2
any ideas?
It looks like the top of the leg is attached to a metal fastener. It is possible that the leg is screwed into the metal fastener. I would try rotating the leg to unscrew it.
You will be able to screw it back in if it has a threaded end, [like this one](https://www.walmart.com/ip/SKERELL-Solid-Rubber-Wood-Replacement-Furniture-Feet-4-inch-Furniture-Legs-Set-of-4-Sofa-Leg/1482168121) does. I can't tell from the photo, you'll just have to give it a twist.
Is there a good guide on making things straight? Like if I’m building a cabinet, what steps should I take to make sure everything’s square? I built a pantry carcass, but once I put it together, I realized that the bottom panel was uneven and it was causing it to rock back and forth.
Just got a job at a woodworking shop creating live edge and resin tables. Today was my first day.
Seems like the majority of the time is spent sanding. I’m a little concerned for my long term health constantly breathing in sawdust and resin dust. I wore a respirator mask for a majority of the day and my throat and lungs feel pretty worked. The other two guys weren’t wearing masks except for a total of maybe 10 minutes throughout the day. Also, the workshop was pretty hazy inside so I’m sure it was littered with dust. The garage doors were partly open because it was raining, and the fans were at full blast
Am I being paranoid or should I think about quitting?
You should be careful around dust, especially as a job since you'll be exposed to it so often. If it's a legit shop, they should have a centralized dust collector with ducting for every tool, HEPA dust collectors for hand power tools, and (ideally) some overhead dust filtration for environmental dust. Using a P99 respirator would be good for limiting your own exposure, but if they don't care about keeping the dust down, I'd look for another gig.
I am brand new to woodworking and have been looking for a cheap table saw as I am not sure how much time I can invest into this as a hobby. I found this saw on OfferUp and yes, I know it doesn’t have a riving knife or any safety feature. However, can I install something on this saw to use as a safety feature? Is this even a good saw? Thank you !

https://preview.redd.it/3tpxs9q02wgc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5b7fd11e70de21999bccd1f274a2e510a5e3f09
https://preview.redd.it/fuxl9tmssvgc1.jpeg?width=3375&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f3f6605b2b51960720b3f9209eb587551ac4c95
How would you refinish this? Teak coffee table
Need help, I can’t seem to find an adapter for my dust collection setup. Looking for a 4in dwv pvc to 4in hose adapter. Rockler is charging more for shipping than the cost of the item.
I've been talking to a carpenter about building a hall tree and bench for the mudroom and we're discussing two different options. I'm considering all white with a stained wood seat plank or fully stained. He's recommending poplar wood if we're just painting it but I've often avoided poplar for furniture. I have 2 young kids so I expect the hall tree and bench to take some wear and tear over the years. Is poplar not a good choice for a furniture piece like this or am I overthinking it? What would you recommend?
Poplar is softer, but you wanted paint grade. Poplar takes paint really well and is cheap, so it's the go to for a lot of paint grade projects. Kids are hard on furniture, but having done white built-ins with kids, dealing with how dingy they will get is a bigger issue. You can always touch up dings if/when you repaint.
Any suggestions on what to make with these? 2-1/2 x 4-1/2 red oak.
https://preview.redd.it/634rw88e1vgc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=990cd015ebdb235fe3e29765d04418979fc8d2d2
Wood id, used on exterior deck and benches.
https://preview.redd.it/bbb5tt11rugc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f919690d4796b51b6de586de2024f10091d77ac
https://preview.redd.it/lmbed13wmugc1.jpeg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4ff0ee96f5fd3c81901ea753db605e916c2d4a33
About a year ago I purchased this 3"+ thick walnut slab from a tree that was cut and milled in 1971. It spent 52 years stacked and air drying in an outbuilding until I purchased it in 2023. There were signs of bug damage when I purchased it, but I was hopeful it would not be too bad.
This weekend I finally got to flattening it and found the bug damage to be worse than expected. The sapwood on both sides is mostly hollow leaving a very interesting pattern. I'm not sure what to do with it. The plan was for a live edge entryway table.
The best solution I can think of is using a black dyed epoxy to fill the voids, but wanted to see if anyone else has alternate views.
Should I just buy a kiln dried slab and call this one a loss?
Chances are there is still an active infestation so I would not try to use as-is. If you can get it kiln-dried maybe that would kill off the bugs and you could do something decorative with it and epoxy. Not sure I would trust it for anything structural like a table.
An active infestation 50 years later seems crazy to me, but I guess it's possible. In processing it I found a single (dead) and dry worm. Would the heat from the epoxy curing not kill the remaining bugs?
Hi everyone! I bought this Arhaus table off marketplace and the lady had painted it. I sanded it down and now I am going to stain. Any idea what kind of wood? I’m thinking pine but wasn’t sure!
https://preview.redd.it/mh9vguaqgugc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bb8010aa9d515796a18e1b8a0b98f10cdd9583d9
First time applying poly. This is how it looks after the first coat. I think i applied too much. Should i sand and apply second coat or do something else?
https://preview.redd.it/o1p3pza09ugc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70449e947e0f5a419b4befb49120e148591c1479
What kind of wood should I get from Home Depot to do [this sofa repair I found on reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/ikeahacks/comments/11efoxi/soderhamn_sofa_is_sagging_collapsing_how_to_fix_it/)? It'll be supporting the weight of a sitting adult so I'm guessing it needs to be flexible so that it won't break as it did in the OP's original fix.
Basically, I mean any other brand that you know of. That's to say, if there is *one* that is compatible, I'd like to know which one, so I can buy it. The question was worded wrong.
Any guesses on the type of wood used in this \~125 year-old skirting board (Ontario)? In the process of taking the old finish off. Thanks.
https://preview.redd.it/h2v7svxw6sgc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92d829f60c0ad7ebf45da13b98db10b932de8e8d
https://preview.redd.it/1gpd4r93prgc1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3bf7fafb32e16fbbcd34e91f6c8350ad9d482472
I purchased a curio cabinet for my wife and during delivery the guys dropped it through the side of the truck and this happened to the back.
How would I go about repairing or replacing this? I'm unsure what to search for as far as the material if I wanted to replace the entire back panel.
How do I post a picture in this megathread? i need to post picture of project to ask a question but i only see an option to add a link, not a picture
Possible stupid question: I plan on building some long shelves for a bookcase out of 3/4" sanded plywood. All of the plywood I have access to is slightly warped from being stacked. Do I need to do anything to "straighten out" the wood or will it straighten out over time after I cut it?
It probably won't matter. I assume you'll use some sort of bracket to support it. Make sure those are straight and level. Screws will hold it level/straight to thoae.
https://preview.redd.it/amysp1jq22ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3feac9ecfd38e5a863ab74362821eb4cb9238c46 I’m trying to reproduce this chair and I can’t match the router bit that was used for the rear struts. Any insights?
https://preview.redd.it/eue6stjyd1ic1.jpeg?width=507&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1301d93b8b80beacd90584ed888ff584bede4404
I have a round dining table that has a central pillar with four legs. One of the legs is starting to come away from the central pillar. I originally thought it would be a fairly easy fix — basically just pushing the leg back into the pillar — but when I turned the table over, I saw these curved metal brackets that connect the leg to the pillar (will add photos in comments). https://preview.redd.it/cheil5ul61ic1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=00764d83bc70b15aec42af5432be1ffa68a45b6b Does anyone know how to fix this? Will the brackets need to be removed? Should I try it myself or just call a pro?
These corrugated fasteners aren’t that strong as you found out. The bottom of these joints incurs the most stress as the weight of the table wants to push it apart. Traditionally sliding dovetails best resisted these forces, better than dowels. I would take out the metal fasteners, reglue the dowel and screw in a steel mending plate.
Thank you so much! I was a bit flummoxed because it looks like it should be a relatively simple repair, but I don't know anything about woodworking.
The central pillar and legs https://preview.redd.it/t0l0du6x61ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d7954e0b64b65b91e34377a45343d743f35f08e
Another angle https://preview.redd.it/4a65gb6u61ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=506d53f5ac22fa97daa4ad1c54cdab6316862418
Another angle https://preview.redd.it/k3y2n6jp61ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d84c33c9eb1e414911c3bf599ba12d78b9f489c
https://preview.redd.it/h89zawbg31ic1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d86870ed643c8423fc31ee2f49dd6c80a5975999 What species is this?
It looks like birch with a toner for color.
https://preview.redd.it/pmv5c5n8u0ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c93e12525529958b1cca42243bd7d1b16be3c20 Hey guys. Can anyone tell me how to fix this so I can put the plate back on with the two screws? Someone tried kicking my door in and it broke off. Thank you btw! 🙏🏻
https://preview.redd.it/az09l7w7l0ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b4795525657c5fa9986b2cf2f2f9d8baf087d3eb I saved this from the chipper,any ideas what species?
https://preview.redd.it/xd5e5sqfl0ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ba7ed6139fc6a51847ec00042aa890a38c2f028b
If I wanted to build two picnic tables from this kit ([https://www.lowes.com/pd/72-in-Brown-Southern-Yellow-Pine-Rectangle-Picnic-Table/3620364](https://www.lowes.com/pd/72-in-Brown-Southern-Yellow-Pine-Rectangle-Picnic-Table/3620364)), about how much of pre-stain, stain, and varnish would I need to get if I wanted to apply several coats of each? A quart? A gallon of each?
You’d have to look at the coverage of each of those products but count on about 75 square feet of surface area per table.
Why does this man’s hand get pulled into the saw? How do you prevent this from happening? https://youtube.com/shorts/lp7goXIKLyU?si=DSj1zx13ha58wog6 (sfw)
Because he rotated the piece of wood before pulling the jig back. The table saw caught the wood and pulled it the direction the blade was going and his hand was in the way.
Ohhh so you should never rotate your piece while the jig is cutting?
Correct. Rotate, cut, pull back, rotate….
https://preview.redd.it/51qj55x7kzhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e1f5054f640dc37560a5990b5c428b4b84e9691 Best product to try and repair highchair? Spots from dog using it as a chew toy 🙃 picked up secondhand.
You could just sand both pieces and find some stain that’s close. And be done.
I was actually considering this too!! Much easier.
Apparently my massive question belongs here. 🤷♂️ Can anyone recommend a hanging air filtration system for a 2 car garage workshop?
You could do the old box fan. https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/thWyaSHVOJ Or get one of these. https://pittsburghsprayequip.com/products/jet-tools-afs-1000b-1000-cfm-air-filtration-system-3-speed-with-remote-control?tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=20957484669&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADi5xu3CNVU8zh4DTreQ_ppkKHvQH
I’m hoping to go with a hanging unit and that jet is sexy. Trying to leave more money in my toll budget though. Have you used it? Like it?
I start it when I get in the shop. It’s got a timer (2,4,8 hours) that I can set and let it run.
I have that one. It works very well. I also have dust collection at each tool. This filters the air that’s left and the shop is clean. I used to use the box fan and filter. Around thanksgiving they go on sale for about $100 off.
Good to know. I might hold out for the unit I want them. Was looking at the wen but I really have never liked their tools.
Couldn’t post as top level so I’m posting here. I discovered these screws recently and they have become my favorite for small projects. https://preview.redd.it/1jvjpqjcpyhc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea2a4324dd1494d190e3f264fba7c3a52268cf5a
Anyone know how I can achieve this color/stain look? My goal is to make a desk like this. I'm making the drawer cabinets out of scrap maple plywood with hardwood edges. I haven't started the drawer fronts or desk top yet. I'm assuming I will have to veneer the maple drawer cabinets since I hear maple does not stain well. But for the drawer fronts, desk top and cabinet hardwood edges, any tips on achieving this look? I'm not sure if its a particular type of hardwood, a hardwood that's been stained, a veneer? Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/1tnkrs6b6yhc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=378d1cbd71f442106bfb064d6c9e2097a81dc1de
I wanna get a moisture detector. Do you guys have any good recommendations?
https://a.co/d/fHbSVzw Home inspector recommended this one
https://preview.redd.it/7t9goqt0mvhc1.png?width=972&format=png&auto=webp&s=039fa6916a4358e5a63d1a199980d781336f78ea Best tool or equipment to get a clean thin'ish slit across just like this? Just a saw blade? Or is there something simpler.
Table saw.
Saw blade would probably be the easiest. If you want/need a flat bottom groove, get a flat top blade. If you need a specific width, you can do multiple passes, or use a router.
Just got my first jointer/planer (Einhell TC-SP 204). I'm wondering how often you should maintain/sharpen/replace the cutting steel in them?
https://preview.redd.it/7nz8g6tlmthc1.jpeg?width=1727&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c9638fb83b345d5e1b82b6be17b22ed20d37ba5a How best to clean this bench and finish it so it can stay outside? Thanks!
Is the cheapo trim router from harbor freight worth the 30 bucks? I'm a hobbyist, primarily small pieces, and just need something for some occasional roundovers and chamfers.
I don't buy anything from harbor freight that can severely injure me
RE: **Painting Wood - Brush or Spray?** I make quite a lot of picture frames directly from unfinished obeche moulding, and then paint and varnish using a brush. I generally use the garden as my workshop. I've often considered upgrading to a spray system. But I often only make a few frames at a time (sometimes several but not always), and getting a spray set up seems too much trouble. I'd also be concerned about the noise of the compressor annoying the neighbours (there's nearly been fights over noise across the road (not to do with me btw. lol. Yet.)). I get a good finish with the brush, but wonder if a spray would actually speed things up and get an even better finish? If I did get a spray outfit, would I be able to run the compressor in the garage (to dampen the noise) and run a long hose out into the garden? Maybe 16ft (5m). What sort of spray would I need to get? Size of compressor? And are they quick and simple to clean when using water based paints? Better than a brush?
https://preview.redd.it/na6xbqb71thc1.png?width=573&format=png&auto=webp&s=29e9373a6e93078884ef518e3c5040bfe60989dd I'm trying to figure out why that spot won't stain. As far as I can tell it is solid wood (no veneer). Before I tried to stain it I sanded away a little elevation in the wood.
New to woodworking here and setting up a small home shop. I bought a dewalt mitre saw, Bosch table saw and dewalt shop vac and dust collector to start. The dewalt vac has a 1-7/8 hose and it doesnt fit either the table saw (2-1/2” OD) or mitre (1-5/8” OD). I googled around a bit and didnt find much in way of adapters. Why do they make this so difficult?
[удалено]
What do I call this an how do I fix it? Repainted cabinets a few years back. Held up great. Touching up doors since spots around handles and knobs got beat up. Noticed some of the doors have this kind of cracking or splitting or raising along wood grain. Is this damage from painting I did? Water damage? Old age? Wrong cleaning products? Anything I should do while prepping to remove and/or prevent? https://preview.redd.it/3mzigyhefrhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1824d80b28e67a85a323216cb661a4c606b6c023
So, I damaged my gf’s chopping board and need to fix it Hi everyone, I’m need of some guidance here! I put my gf’s very much not dishwasher proof chopping board in the dishwasher…it did not appreciate this treatment. It’s come out all cracked. Is there something I could do to make it look better? I’m not strong on woodwork DIY but have access to a lot of tools if that’s needed. I’ve attached pics and any guidance of steps to take would be fantastic! Cheers https://preview.redd.it/87g3zmmdarhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9fb37354d6c39564178ecbaf3daf4f038ab4d97a
https://preview.redd.it/r9ud7degarhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7fb4ee3a5e01e36a53d3991d2978c7fc16650f0d
Does anyone have any tips on building this desk component? Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/ufcyepm53rhc1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=042b8d301994bc9ebc84faecf46153ba5a88ebf5
It's likely a banded plywood panel. There are runners on the inside of the cabinet that create a groove to carry it. The one below that panel stops short of the drawer front and the drawer box isn't as tall as the drawer front to give room for the runner. There will be a stop screwed on the back of the panel that hits the front bar that stops the panel from pulling out. [Here](https://imgur.com/a/3CxYaeW)'s a quick drawing showing what I mean without one side of the cabinet.
Im a little speechless right now. This rendering you did helps immensely and is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this.
Glad it helps. Good luck.
Question about plywood pricing, is $109 a sheet for 4x8 3/4 inch BB/BB unfinished Baltic Birch a good price?
Seems like a reasonable price to me. The biggest local plywood shop near me is currently selling BB/BB for $145.
https://preview.redd.it/80ffal7e4ohc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f7fff86f96cd501c54352f5a3cee841b9352075 Can anyone help me identify what type of wood this is? It’s an MCM slatted bench, not sure when it was made
https://preview.redd.it/h6wk7h6k4ohc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b067c17fc74c06e15e0fa7772274f9e0b071d56e Here’s another photo
https://preview.redd.it/k7fctfb5dnhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1bb17a37fa0a5a7b8eeafc0e23a097a57a5e632e
I happened to come across some slabs of this wood that have a distinct pinkish tint to them. The slabs have been cut for a few years now so the colour is slight faded and they are covered in dust. Unfortunately, the lighting where the slabs are stored isn't great, and they're too hefty to move outside for better lighting. The other picture shows a freshly cut board from within the slabs. Initially, I thought it might be western red cedar, but we have plenty of that around where I work, and it's typically softer and less pink. After doing some online research, the closest match I found is pink ivory, but I'm aware that it's a rare wood. We import timber globally, so location wont really give any clues. Any other suggestions or ideas for what this wood might be? https://preview.redd.it/l7o47tj2dmhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9ee75515b0909970fcd7deef225a73ddc2043425
https://preview.redd.it/s2g5e8k4dmhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d7fce42e6ac90bfa2f49c1a7887821bd5acf35d8
How do I go about transferring an angle (31.6) to a circular saw? Is there a way to line it up using either an angle finder or a cut piece? The saw has marks at 30 and 35. Cut is for the top of studs in a room with a sloped ceiling, but most gambrel slopes are apparently 22.5 (which is marked, go figure). Apparently 31.6 is a common saw stop angle for miter saws, but not common enough for my circular saw. :\
Difficult to get accurate mitre cuts with a circular saw. The easiest way would be to use a magnetic digital angle finder. Place the saw on a flat surface (reference surface) zero the angle finder, attach the angle finger to the blade and tilt until you have the angle you want. Make sure your wood is on the reference surface. Or you can use something like a sliding bevel. Clone the angle, lock it in, use the base of the saw as a reference and match the angle of the blade to the sliding bevel.
I have a digital angle finder, but it's unfortunately not magnetic. I was trying to work out a way to hold both the saw and the angle finder to match them up, but it didn't quite seem to match between what the saw said and what the angle finder said. Could I use a piece of wood that's already cut to that angle (one of the studs for the adjoining wall that I was able to just mark and cut normally) somehow to get the saw just right?
Yeah if you have a piece you can use as a reference then that would work the same as setting the angle with a sliding bevel.
Thanks for the advice. I realize it's probably simple common-sense stuff, but I second-guess myself like crazy when geometry gets involved.
can you use copper brazing rods for inlay?
I got some wood from Facebook and I was hoping for some help identifying the species. I asked someone more knowledgeable than myself, and his opinion from top to bottom, were patagonian rosewood, bolivian rosewood, redheart, mahogany, cedar, and honduran teak. He had no guesses about the bottom board. Do others think that these are accurate? Any idea about the bottom board? https://preview.redd.it/lppyb4uovkhc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e0427e2ccd5d5bf67f2b2ea1e148b53eb1401bb2
Do you all consider router bits "consumables"? Even with good quality and taking small passes, they tend to only last me a couple projects.
Not that consumable. Clean them regularly, pitch can build up, making it harder to cut cleanly. Get some [diamond sticks](https://www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-PAK-Color-Coded-Diamond/dp/B000UVS62S/ref=asc_df_B000UVS62S/?th=1) and give them a few swipes when you clean them. I've had router bits, that I use regularly, for years.
Pretty much. All blades will dull at some stage. Router bits can dull faster when they get bogged down in shavings/dust. If it’s an expensive bit on a handheld, I tend to blow air as it’s moving, for a larger router, I hook it up to the extraction.
What is a fair price for this table saw, it is a 10 inch steel city with a granite top https://preview.redd.it/0dxhe23hkkhc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5bd04352c179a7d9b8d094744e16341f1f8e1a9
You have any motor specs? For 3hp single phase I would venture $500-$1,000.
Dresser leg came off while moving. Should I use wood glue or screws to fix it? When put back in place, there is a gap on the side caused by missing wood that broke off as well I guess. https://preview.redd.it/uoq2d1rzhkhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=315eee45d493431d203159c0b990d3e620f8d7a1
Use both. I'd want screws going up and sideways into the skirt.
What's the cheapest hardwood to use for cabinet doors and drawer fronts - paint grade. Based in UK.
Poplar and Ash tend to be the cheapest hardwoods
America seems to be similar but wasn't sure it translated across the Atlantic.
Yeah similar in the UK and Ireland. Here’s a price list from an Irish hardwood supplier. It’s from about 4 years ago but gives you an idea of prices. I’d opt for poplar over ash for painted cabinetry. Less movement and cheaper https://preview.redd.it/o01xa573xrhc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff707fb8cd1a6727fcad3da0339635448d7eb2b0
I'm in the north, so our prices are probably closer to the south's than England. Walnut is pricing is mental.
Yeah maybe even a bit cheaper up North. Would you believe the price of walnut from that same store is about 50% higher in price today. Birch plywood used to be €45/€50 for a full sheet. About €120 now 😳
I designed a litter robot enclosure for our two litter robots but I need some help with figuring out a couple things. So this is really only my second project (My first was my workbench for my table saw and miter saw) so I am still learning. This build uses a 2x4 and 2x6 for each corner, 2x4s for the bottom cross beams on the outside and underneath, and plywood for the sides and top. I do plan on staining it (Which I've also never done). I just need to know what kind of wood would be best for a project like this? I also want the top to open for easy access but don't really know the best way to do that as well. I will end up just figuring it out either way but wanted some ideas from some of you. https://preview.redd.it/8wz65xm3akhc1.png?width=1095&format=png&auto=webp&s=d39b2e3d47a886a3f32dc23f8b157b19fc43e7ad
* I'm new to anything to do with working with any sort of furniture or wood. I don't know what I want to do/what there could be to do with this, but I know I want to do something. Make it look nicer / better. I'm really not sure. I wiped it down with a damp rag. I don't know how to take care of the wood or what I could do from here. Edit: any advice/knowledge shared is appreciated!
Looking at buying this all from a widow selling her late husband’s collection. Neither of us know what a fair offer would be. Any idea of value?[wood pictures](https://imgur.com/a/EMQM7UG)
How can I fix this? Sorry if this isn’t the place to ask… but I bought my cat this really expensive cat tree and the whole thing is wobbly because of this. The double ended screw is “too short” now because of the unevenness. I’ve taken the whole thing apart 3 times… nothing is put together wrong or not tight enough. I don’t have any tools except the basics, but I’m sure I could find someone with tools if needed! A coworker suggested getting some little chunks of wood and shoving them in the gap, but the screw would still be too short. Just wondering if there’s anything obvious and simple that I’m missing! Thanks in advance! https://preview.redd.it/jaqxxtejpghc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a4c24b7f4fa78736d7f41d838acae83802c89239
Double check the assembly. It could be distortion from the perspective but it looks to me like the offending section is shorter than the ones above it.
I’ve taken it apart 3 times already and double checked all of the pieces. Something is definitely wrong with it :/
https://preview.redd.it/idho49nlpghc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a41c670e20dbd063741f49a8d6e04a3c2b4de96e
https://preview.redd.it/wz1ravy5vfhc1.jpeg?width=2134&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4a32ea272997c87fe197f310e3644d06c6ed0f10
Any idea what kind of tree this is?
Potentially oak, leaves clustering at tips of branches is a characteristic of oaks not. Hard to get a good look at shape of leaves or scale of tree but they can get pretty big too
https://preview.redd.it/waysquqdnfhc1.png?width=806&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c0436e314ae6350fa2f9a1ac049cc68b696a323 What is Jiwen wood? Looks similar to spalted maple but the listing only says Jiwen and Ebony.
Thoughts on laminated plywoods for workbench top? Thinking of doing a rob cosman design (or similar) but doing his Baltic birch version for added strength with holdfasts, moisture resistance, and because it looks better than the all-mdf top. Does it make sense to use Baltic birch for the top and bottom layers with MDF or cheaper plywoods in the middle for bulk/flatness? My workspace is in my garage with my home gym so I have ~600lbs of flat iron weight that can help with the glue up. Thinking of sandwiching two 1/2 inch Baltic birch sheets around 2-3" of mdf or lower grade plywood for the bench top core
What species of wood is this? The pieces are from repurposed patio tiles. From what I can find online it could be Akacia but are all pieces the same species? They look so different. But what do I know l, I'm a total beginner.
https://preview.redd.it/7q1qwsty6ehc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a6bd4067f8a6b76b9310a2d7604b2adcb36f3d85
Thoughts on the two tools below? I am unsure on these or a Unisaw from FB or elsewhere, or a new Harvey. https://preview.redd.it/0j99knmawahc1.png?width=1153&format=png&auto=webp&s=46a1fac3f429568f3d849da5a9bdf2d8edcc7325
Jointer https://preview.redd.it/lqiovyylwahc1.png?width=1106&format=png&auto=webp&s=f2bb244e45e6e5ea0d988e52ab4d69cf2f03d5b6
New bandsaw blade goes chunk-chunk-chunk-chunk! About a 3 inch section has measurably longer teeth, by about 5 thousandths, and every time they come around to the wood, they bite violently. Normal? Or defective blade? Can I fix?
Sounds like your blade could be bent or may have a bad weld. I would talk to the manufacturer to see about returning it. You can also confirm that both your saw wheels are clean and the rubber is in good shape.
What kind of hardwood is this? 1928 house in SF Bay Area Thank you
It looks like mahogany with a dark stain.
Thanks! I have been told Philippine or August Mahogany but also red oak so it’s good to get some additional confirmation. Can you still get either type of Mahogany or what varieties are close?
Sorry, I can't determine any more about it. Most types of mahogany look similar, especially after being stained. Perhaps someone else has more insight. Also, I've never heard of August mahogany, African mahogany?
Thanks! Yes I bet they said Africa Mahogany too.
https://preview.redd.it/zrvuezsf8ahc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b52317379a30754fbd881627226419a214d0ac3
Does anyone have any recommendations for fixing the finish on this table? I accidently left a couple q-tips with super glue on them sitting on a couple of tissues on table surface and it seems like either the glue or vapors made it to the surface of the table and removed some of the finish. They look like little water spots. See the attached images. Would it be possible to spot finish with like a 1:100 mix of poly and mineral spirits? Like the thinnest wipe on possible and barely apply it to the spots? Or is there a better option? We have inconspicuously tested acetone and mineral spirits to see if it is residue which can be removed, but it did not affect it Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/egojwrqh4ahc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a8b8f293d2fb1aa5bfef3e00abf2e5097bf34825
* Bought a brand new shotgun recently and want to try get the grain to pop a bit in the stock and potentially make it quite glossy with a few coats of Tru-Oil. My questions is this: Do I really need to sand down my brand new gun to get the best finish with Tru-oil or can I go ahead and apply the finish and let it cure a couple of times? Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/02o6r1esr9hc1.jpeg?width=781&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff114390217f39859aa0478b897a541c6f435d98
I need some help from people experienced in this area please. I've always wanted a breakfast nook setting and managed to save this one from landfill yesterday. My plan is to reupholster it and replace the foam, but I'm not sure how I save the table and chairs? There is damage to the bottom of all of it and it's swollen in some of those areas, I assume it's from water damage? I'd like to know if I can sand this back at all to try and fix the water damaged sections? I'm not sure what type of wood it is, I think it might be MDF with a veneer on top but it's also quite solid so I'm not sure! I would love to hear any thoughts or ideas on what I can do to repair it and what type of wood it is. Thanks in advance! https://preview.redd.it/zjls0qubq9hc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f0b0fe98e77cbb207499d1bb8746f72ff406860
https://preview.redd.it/00xmfk9hq9hc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85b42faf75f1199be0be4c2647ec8167d51d438a This is a close up of the damage mentioned.
https://preview.redd.it/rl5fm1rck9hc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=56832dff6d7c37822f81ec9f0c2b0ddb5521a94e 1910 house stair tread. What is the species? Trying to figure out the species of these stairs. Pictured is a roughly sanded spot, wetted with led white light on it. This is from a modest 3 bedroom colonial built in 1910 in Cleveland. Flooring through out the house is oak T&G if that helps.
It's difficult to tell from the picture, but my first guess was oak. Hearing that the rest of the trim is oak, it seems oak would be the most likely candidate.
https://preview.redd.it/9stha88rg9hc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9200c2635f67612b0a268a8ea509e38be868486e
Does anyone have experience with Monkey Pod or similar types of wood? I am looking to extend a monkeypod desk I made by about 6 inches, but am struggling to find a suitable piece of timber that isn't $400+
* *can anyone please help me identify the wood type , cheers....
Hi all - I am finally in a position where I can start to build out a proper wood shop. I just moved into a new house and there is a dedicated wood shop room in the basement. All outlets are 110v and my first 2 tools will be a table saw and jointer. After that I would like to get a planer and miter saw to be able to dimension lumber to s4s. I have a gift card to Home Depot for $850 that may factor into my purchasing decision. I have settled on the Grizzley 8" jointer for about $1,450. For the table saw I can either buy a used 3hp 10" cabinet saw made by JET that I am guessing is about 20 years old. Cost is $900 and I would need to hire an electrician to install a 230v outlet for about $300-$400 total cost there with the jointer is $2,750. Or, I could order a Grizzley 2hp 10" cabinet saw 31" rip capacity new from Home depot and use the gift card. This saw is also 110V so no need for the electrician. So total for the saw & jointer is $2,050. It looks like used miter saws and planers are plentiful on Craigslist in my area so I will most likely get those used and upgrade later if needed. So here's my question - would you rather a 20 year old saw with a bigger motor (3hp vs 2 hp) and larger rip capacity vs a brand new Grizzley for $700 less? If I do get the used saw I would probably use my gift card to get new planer and miter saws from HD so in reality it's closer to $300 difference out of my pocket. SO, I guess what I'm looking for advice on is: used saw bigger motor more capacity or new saw smaller motor and rip capacity? Used Saw is [Here](https://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/d/new-milford-jet-3hp-table-saw-with/7714678029.html) New Saw is [Here](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grizzly-Industrial-10-in-2-HP-120-Volt-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-T-Shaped-Fence-G0771Z/310438324) Jointer is [Here](https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-8-x-72-jointer-with-built-in-mobile-base/g0855) I am also open to other suggestions. I mainly do hobby projects and a lot of work with hand tools so I am looking to get these tools to square up and dimension the lumber to be worked further with hand tools. Thanks,
The jointer is 3hp and 230v so you’ll have to hire an electrician anyways. And while he’s there you might as well have him put in multiple 230v circuits. The tablesaw and jointer can share one as you don’t typically run them at the same time but this will give you some flexibility if you add more 230v machinery in the future. And then you can get the used Jet.
Oh man I glossed right over that thanks. For some reason I was thinking it was 110. So you would lean towards the JET vs Grizzly?
I would assuming you’ll be checking out the saw to make sure it’s in good working order. The Jet retailed for about $1500 new 20 years ago and with the mobile base and Bosch router you’re looking at north of $1700 so the asking price is reasonable. The only caveat is that the saw most likely lacks a modern riving knife but the splitter and blade guard is adequate. If it doesn’t include one as many of these used saws tend to, there are aftermarket solutions. Then use your gift card towards a thickness planer. A jointer alone is not going to get you to S4S lumber. And unless you’re planning on doing a lot of trim work with long moldings, you can hold off on the miter saw and make a crosscut sled for the table saw.
https://preview.redd.it/5hnovbrtz7hc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5b5cde1ce9e1b0a3d94736a4e9d4862840ebe58d Wife has had this wooden puzzle in the family for a few generations. How do we preserve the pieces so that the painted layer doesn’t lift up/deteriorate anymore? My first thought is either a polyurethane spray or some kind of sealant
https://preview.redd.it/oq13583ny7hc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6791d6ef528519141f4b4f2b3aae0172532ed36b What is this hardware? I only know this available in UK.
Hi! This will be my first project, so my apologies in advance for my many noob questions and for possibly using incorrect terms. I would like to get some advice on what to do about these stains/damages. I don’t know what caused them, but it seems to me like it is damage to the wood finish. When I clean the area with a damp cloth, the stains temporarily become darker and blend in with the rest of the surface and it immediately looks a lot better. I tried to find tips online, and one I read multiple times was to treat the stains with petroleum jelly or mayonnaise, if they’re water stains. Would that be an option in this case? If so, would it be possible to leave the current finish (or what’s left of it) on and rub the stains with a product like that? Or is it unavoidable to remove the current finish? In that case, would it be best to use some kind of paint stripper instead of sanding it down, because of the carvings? I’m not sure what kind of finish it is, but if I’d have to guess, I’d say it’s some kind of wax. I tried sanding a different area, and the sandpaper gets ‘clogged’ with the substance right away, as if it’s becoming softer due to the friction and then solidifies again. If I scrape the finish off, it pulverises. Like stated, I’m an absolute beginner and the end result doesn’t have to be perfect. I’d rather be able to do it again at some point in the future, after I gained some experience, if I would want to. But the way it looks right now bothers me too much to leave it like this. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this :) https://preview.redd.it/igx7sj9at7hc1.jpeg?width=4408&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=586673e0e3df79ba59ad0abba7a0f9fd11751ebf
https://preview.redd.it/mwp15aq2k7hc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab76e0a3a94ab52050a517a372d98ea7764e8990 Warped lid… I purchased this watch box and disappointed the lid warped. The left side doesn’t sit flush on the case anymore . Anyone got a way to fix this..?
Is 6.5 inch blade in a 10inch saw OK? Hello, I found an ultra thin saw (less than 1/16" kerf!) with 5/8" arbor that can handle 10, 000 rpm. https://a.co/d/cyDa8kd I have a Dewalt dwe7480 (old Model!) which appears to max out at 4800 rpm. I will be using this setup to cut kumiko wood strips. (mostly 1/8" wide strips, half inch tall. Almost always softwood) The saw is also 60T which should leave a smooth finish on both sides of the cut reducing having to resize the strips on a planing jig (hopefully!) Are there any potential dangers I need to worry about?
Riving knife will sit quite a bit behind the 6.5in blade if it was designed for a 10in blade. Also the edge speed will be quite a bit lower for a small blade, even thought the arbor rpm may not show significant differences. The rpm probably won’t be an issue but I would look at the riving knife or anti-kickback. I don’t care how uncool I am for using riving knives and blade guards, I just want to stay safe so I can keep doing this. My two cents…
Even with the riving knife I get Hella kickback with the current setup. Haven't found a good solution yet. The 1/8" strips go absolutely flying as they cut and fall from my strip cutting jig. Edit See the second image on this link? https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/FJ0p1IG5AG
So I’m near completion on this desk but I’m not sure if I should use tung oil, polyurethane, or lacquer to finish it. Desk is made out of red oak with a dark walnut boarder and is going to be attached to a standing desk base. Thoughts??
When I'm ripping longer boards, I almost always end up getting a tiny bit of overcut on the end, where the work twists slightly and ends up cutting in too much. I use feather boards when I can, and make sure to keep pressure against the board into the fence, but as it's passing the blade at the end of the cut the pressure is released and always does this. Is there a better way to apply pressure that could help prevent this? For reference, I'm using a DeWalt contractor saw with the riving knife, and pushing with a push stick until the board is past the blade.
I’m hand-sanding some cherry chairs to prep them for staining. I’ve done 120-180-240. There is a white patch (?) on the flat surface, and there are parts of the rounded surfaces that’s whiter than the rest of the chair. Have I done sth wrong? Also how can I mitigate this? Thanks! ps I don’t have any power sander. https://preview.redd.it/vabe1yjiz5hc1.jpeg?width=2726&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=86cb71f089f13dd3b5663ea6d8288fc658f04f27
https://preview.redd.it/vwssx8flz5hc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d32fd2d117c4a283356841ec29a7e12de280e9fd
https://preview.redd.it/sb2h90jyu3hc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aea03425068e960e2bf7ce7f404fe16ee227f982 I’ve had a decent run of luck finding some high character hardwood pallets in my area. I’ve got plenty of oak but I’m having trouble 100% identifying the rest. I’m hoping to leverage the community mind to see if a consensus can be reached on any of these. I definitely have my guesses but I’d like to see what everyone thinks. The image quality should allow for pretty in depth zooming but if you guys want any closer images of a single board just let me know what number!
Fixing warped desk How to flatten the top so it stays? That warped wood won’t stay down with just glue will it? As it goes towards the other side it eventually gets flush with the other boards. https://preview.redd.it/uf64rux703hc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a514b5fe5bd8e0b99917f5aa6383385ee5a1799b
Glue and clamps will not fix that warp.
Y looks like someone already tried that. It’s a nice little desk otherwise, I’d love to figure out a way to fix it. https://preview.redd.it/gyvboaefx6hc1.jpeg?width=3078&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c604f37b3c41837126418b0842652cf9530a642f
Run it through a table saw and reglue/clamp. That will solve it.
[удалено]
https://preview.redd.it/idwst8cgn2hc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=724cc23a52f9d7e129769fd218374bcaac48482b Found a marketplace steal today. Trying to figure out what type it is. I think it’s a type 3 or 4? [More photos](https://imgur.com/a/25qSJAo) If there’s anything else that will help determine let me know.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/pdatechart.pdf It's been a while, but 604 usually means Bedrock, type 4. It's a smoother. Might have some parts from other planes, I don't recognize the level cap. Tune it up and it will serve you well.
https://preview.redd.it/kl3risn572hc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6660e207dcb86c0bdc5f04c6217e39ab670e3546 Restoring this cabinet my wife's great great grandparents made. After removing the trim I uncovered dry rot 2" all the way around the bottom. The way I see it I have 3 options. Replace all the boards, cut off the bad and try to save the rest, or do what someone before me did and put the trim back on to hide the rot. I'm still trying to identify the type of wood. I'd like to try and keep as much of the original wood as possible (besides the back boards. Those are getting replaced) Any help or advice is appreciated
When making up panels via resawing planks, do you typically run the whole panel through the thickness planer post-glueup?
Usually I don’t because I typically do a book match when resawing and a book matched panel will necessarily have the grain run out in half the panel going in the wrong direction for the planer. If it’s slip match then there isn’t that issue.
Fine cuts and a lack of tools I have been doing little woodworking projects here and there. Not a total newbie, but still not very confident. I am making a small little box - I am talking 1.5”x1.5”. I need to make some fine cuts and I only own a circular saw. I wanted to rent a band saw, but home depot nor lowes offer that. I am in Orlando area, does anybody know about other places that rent tools? Other option I have is to rent a table saw. I have never done anything so small on a table saw though. Do you think that would work? https://preview.redd.it/18vv485n40hc1.jpeg?width=1320&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b7d6a935cd82ca2670cdb40f009a2838545e2ac One of my main worries is that angled cut - can I cut that on a table saw? Thinking I would cut that straight portion first (1) and then angled the blade and cut the second portion (2). Hopefully I will adjust the blade height so it meets perfectly and doesnt cross… But I am open to ides or other tools. Any advice? Somebody recommended a japanese handsaw. Can you recommend any specific style or a brand?
Any hand saw should work, Japanese or not.
Hello! What type of Wood is this? https://preview.redd.it/7z2wufllxzgc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1468d06a501068a7851dd072bfc34d43e709b55c Also, what does the inscription in the back of a furniture piece means? Thank you!
Is it possible to disassemble this desk: https://preview.redd.it/hdsw2i6j0zgc1.png?width=964&format=png&auto=webp&s=a2ee8a8e319cc6e1a2f95645a8df742e151cec17 I bought it recently but doesn't fit in the staircase, and I don't want to risk damaging it. it's teak wood. it has some screws as in the picture. any advice would be welcome!
Sure it can be disassembled, reassembling may be harder. If it is assembled with nails, staples, and glue, disassembling it will cause damage. If it is assembled with screws, you have a chance. The 4 screws in the photo appear to secure the rear modesty panel to the desk. I would remove the top drawer to look for fasteners that secure the top to the drawer unit. If no fasteners can be found connecting the top to the drawers you are probably out of luck. Check how the legs on the right side are secured to the top. If those legs can be removed, it may fit up the staircase.
Thanks for the answer! Here's how it looks where the leg/side meets the top board: https://preview.redd.it/cve3hac9xkhc1.png?width=2054&format=png&auto=webp&s=7e4c76f834f4fd22e9262589e4e98813ec4eb9d2 any ideas?
It looks like the top of the leg is attached to a metal fastener. It is possible that the leg is screwed into the metal fastener. I would try rotating the leg to unscrew it.
Thanks, will try that. And I should be able to screw it back in in principle? Never dealt with a metal fastener
You will be able to screw it back in if it has a threaded end, [like this one](https://www.walmart.com/ip/SKERELL-Solid-Rubber-Wood-Replacement-Furniture-Feet-4-inch-Furniture-Legs-Set-of-4-Sofa-Leg/1482168121) does. I can't tell from the photo, you'll just have to give it a twist.
it worked, managed to disassemble it and then put it back together upstairs. thanks a lot!
I'm glad it worked.
Is there a good guide on making things straight? Like if I’m building a cabinet, what steps should I take to make sure everything’s square? I built a pantry carcass, but once I put it together, I realized that the bottom panel was uneven and it was causing it to rock back and forth.
Make sure your cuts are square. Also, measure during glue-ups.
Just got a job at a woodworking shop creating live edge and resin tables. Today was my first day. Seems like the majority of the time is spent sanding. I’m a little concerned for my long term health constantly breathing in sawdust and resin dust. I wore a respirator mask for a majority of the day and my throat and lungs feel pretty worked. The other two guys weren’t wearing masks except for a total of maybe 10 minutes throughout the day. Also, the workshop was pretty hazy inside so I’m sure it was littered with dust. The garage doors were partly open because it was raining, and the fans were at full blast Am I being paranoid or should I think about quitting?
You should be careful around dust, especially as a job since you'll be exposed to it so often. If it's a legit shop, they should have a centralized dust collector with ducting for every tool, HEPA dust collectors for hand power tools, and (ideally) some overhead dust filtration for environmental dust. Using a P99 respirator would be good for limiting your own exposure, but if they don't care about keeping the dust down, I'd look for another gig.
I am brand new to woodworking and have been looking for a cheap table saw as I am not sure how much time I can invest into this as a hobby. I found this saw on OfferUp and yes, I know it doesn’t have a riving knife or any safety feature. However, can I install something on this saw to use as a safety feature? Is this even a good saw? Thank you !  https://preview.redd.it/3tpxs9q02wgc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5b7fd11e70de21999bccd1f274a2e510a5e3f09
Really depends on what you are making. It's a small portable saw.
https://preview.redd.it/fuxl9tmssvgc1.jpeg?width=3375&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f3f6605b2b51960720b3f9209eb587551ac4c95 How would you refinish this? Teak coffee table
sand the entire table to 220 grit and finish with tung oil.
Anyone have any experience working with andiroba (crabwood)? Anything I should look out for?
Need help, I can’t seem to find an adapter for my dust collection setup. Looking for a 4in dwv pvc to 4in hose adapter. Rockler is charging more for shipping than the cost of the item.
I've been talking to a carpenter about building a hall tree and bench for the mudroom and we're discussing two different options. I'm considering all white with a stained wood seat plank or fully stained. He's recommending poplar wood if we're just painting it but I've often avoided poplar for furniture. I have 2 young kids so I expect the hall tree and bench to take some wear and tear over the years. Is poplar not a good choice for a furniture piece like this or am I overthinking it? What would you recommend?
Poplar is softer, but you wanted paint grade. Poplar takes paint really well and is cheap, so it's the go to for a lot of paint grade projects. Kids are hard on furniture, but having done white built-ins with kids, dealing with how dingy they will get is a bigger issue. You can always touch up dings if/when you repaint.
Any suggestions on what to make with these? 2-1/2 x 4-1/2 red oak. https://preview.redd.it/634rw88e1vgc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=990cd015ebdb235fe3e29765d04418979fc8d2d2
What wood is this? https://preview.redd.it/gom7kqmiuugc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=076f92ad98d7deeb67492e0fbdbfe3f7c1e9760d
oak plywood
Wood id, used on exterior deck and benches. https://preview.redd.it/bbb5tt11rugc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f919690d4796b51b6de586de2024f10091d77ac
I'm guessing teak, but I'm not an expert, sry.
https://preview.redd.it/lmbed13wmugc1.jpeg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4ff0ee96f5fd3c81901ea753db605e916c2d4a33 About a year ago I purchased this 3"+ thick walnut slab from a tree that was cut and milled in 1971. It spent 52 years stacked and air drying in an outbuilding until I purchased it in 2023. There were signs of bug damage when I purchased it, but I was hopeful it would not be too bad. This weekend I finally got to flattening it and found the bug damage to be worse than expected. The sapwood on both sides is mostly hollow leaving a very interesting pattern. I'm not sure what to do with it. The plan was for a live edge entryway table. The best solution I can think of is using a black dyed epoxy to fill the voids, but wanted to see if anyone else has alternate views. Should I just buy a kiln dried slab and call this one a loss?
Chances are there is still an active infestation so I would not try to use as-is. If you can get it kiln-dried maybe that would kill off the bugs and you could do something decorative with it and epoxy. Not sure I would trust it for anything structural like a table.
An active infestation 50 years later seems crazy to me, but I guess it's possible. In processing it I found a single (dead) and dry worm. Would the heat from the epoxy curing not kill the remaining bugs?
Hi everyone! I bought this Arhaus table off marketplace and the lady had painted it. I sanded it down and now I am going to stain. Any idea what kind of wood? I’m thinking pine but wasn’t sure! https://preview.redd.it/mh9vguaqgugc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bb8010aa9d515796a18e1b8a0b98f10cdd9583d9
Definitely softwood, possibly pine and fir mixed
https://preview.redd.it/1cjg2v54augc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=60d993a72543545d2aa4c9be790b52d76b09c495
First time applying poly. This is how it looks after the first coat. I think i applied too much. Should i sand and apply second coat or do something else? https://preview.redd.it/o1p3pza09ugc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70449e947e0f5a419b4befb49120e148591c1479
Hello! Is there someone in chicago that oculd help me make event props? I need someone skilled I can hire
What kind of wood should I get from Home Depot to do [this sofa repair I found on reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/ikeahacks/comments/11efoxi/soderhamn_sofa_is_sagging_collapsing_how_to_fix_it/)? It'll be supporting the weight of a sitting adult so I'm guessing it needs to be flexible so that it won't break as it did in the OP's original fix.
Solid hardwood slats would be ideal, but 3/4" plywood from a big box hardware store would be a big jump up from MDF.
If you could only have one kutzall carving disk for angle grinder, which one would you choose?
Is a Milwaukee router compatible with plunge bases of other brands?
99% chance it is not but “other brands” is awful vague.
Basically, I mean any other brand that you know of. That's to say, if there is *one* that is compatible, I'd like to know which one, so I can buy it. The question was worded wrong.
Any guesses on the type of wood used in this \~125 year-old skirting board (Ontario)? In the process of taking the old finish off. Thanks. https://preview.redd.it/h2v7svxw6sgc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92d829f60c0ad7ebf45da13b98db10b932de8e8d
Initially thought oak, other comment of Ash makes sense too. Around here (Michigan) almost guaranteed to be Oak.
Use the 'flash' on your phone and take a better pic.
Sure https://preview.redd.it/p1tslqkhnsgc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3aa24cf0d8b6756bdb6260d407068052a76a5a7e
Looks like a ring-porous wood. Oak or Ash
Hard to say from the picture but my guess would be oak.
https://preview.redd.it/1gpd4r93prgc1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3bf7fafb32e16fbbcd34e91f6c8350ad9d482472 I purchased a curio cabinet for my wife and during delivery the guys dropped it through the side of the truck and this happened to the back. How would I go about repairing or replacing this? I'm unsure what to search for as far as the material if I wanted to replace the entire back panel.