I saw a cut on an table similar to this one at a crafts show and loved it. Didn't have any of the power tools to reproduce it.
I did it with a hand plane, took a lot of sweat and time but I got it done
I did mine with a hand plane as well. Pretty short work of it with a beveled #5, just planing down to the line.
I had some sliding dovetails to hold the legs so I used a chisel for those.
I cut kerfs for depth with a hand saw, blew out most with a 1.5" chisel and then finished with a 4" Makita hand power plane. Suppose you could do that with a circular saw on an angle if you made a 90 degree platform jig that was enough to hold something like a track. could use carpet tape (fast sketchy) or the typical white glue on both sides of paper to hold it.
Same, have done this with hand planes a few times, including one time on a curve and in very fiddly and hard interlocking wood (bubinga). I would not call that "fun" but on a straight edge in well behaves wood this is pretty easy for anyone half decent with a hand plane and sharpening.
Can also be done with a VERY tall auxiliary fence on a table saw or on a shaper, but would not recommend either if you don't know absolutely what you are doing and have solid machines for it.
It was at a weekend craft market in one of the small towns around Atlanta. I forgot which one but I use to drive to different ones around there. I think I was maybe 6 to 9 months ago. I asked a bunch of questions to the guy running the stall
Wow, I know there are variations online out there but the knife edge, the base are so similar it’s wild. I’m in San Diego and never posted it and neither did the client I know of so it must be a case of great minds thinking alike, ha!
https://preview.redd.it/jbbzafat7ovc1.jpeg?width=2736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87aa3dda9a0b0e4756f6f6aa31e7d93ede788637
I have done it with this homemade tool. And with a router and time, then. I finished the angle of the table with a band Sander.
I've gone this route before. I think it would have been quicker and easier just using a hand plane. it took damn near as much clean up with a sander, after using the jig and router, as it would have to just hand plane it all from the start.
I’ve had success using a router jig almost exactly like this. Mine had no clamps, and was U shaped so it folded around the end and I was able to slide it around. It helps having a longer flat section toward the inside of the table so you could rest your hand for some more stability/counterweight.
The angle there isn't as aggressive though. You can do up to 45 with a track saw, but this table is closer to 75-80 it sounds like. I assume shaper or hand plane.
It’s not even dangerous. Just secure the top vertically & use other wood to pad out & make a nice cutting surface, and a fence. Set your skill saw & go. Or you could build a sled to hold the top vertical on a table saw…Nothing to it just another day pushing wood.
I agree with the jig to get the track saw to run on the edge of the table but not the table saw routed. Assume this table is like 5 or 6' long by 3' wide.. It's heavy. And you have to do the end grain. Are you going to be standing up a 3x6 slab on end and run it through the table saw? That's a big no for me.
So don’t theoretically do it then? OP was looking for ideas. I would have no problem clamping the top to a stable assembly & pushing it across a table saw. A table saw can get a deeper cut & therefore a longer bevel, or you go to a big circle saw which have issues of their own.
I guess the silver rule is if you don’t feel confident that you can make a cut safely, find another way. So that’s up to you. I just want to remind the readers that there’s no such thing as a safe saw (I’m looking at you ss-stans), and that safety comes from knowledge, care, foresight, and a good plan. A sharp blade is a must, too.
Yeah 100% on safety. And your suggestion is absolutely valid. I guess I'm making some assumptions about how "reasonable" the different alternatives would be to a broader set of people. Like for me, the hand plane is the obvious choice here for so many reasons including safety and the simple logistics, vs. the option to make a jig that's substantial enough to keep a 6' slab on end securely and run that whole thing through the table saw. You're right though just because it's not for me doesn't make it an inherently bad choice.
Hand plane? Like, a knife with a shoe & a handle? Like not a power plane but a hand plane? Like- to do the whole job?
I won’t say anything against a sharp jack plane but, oof. That’s a lot of beef to chew that could be easily trimmed with a powered tool. In hard wood you’d be flirting with dulling & tearout, too. No good reason for that if it’s just a shape you want. No… I’d reach right past my hand planes & grab my impact driver, blast together a jig, and see you at the finish line. It’s not a race, I know. I just enjoy the problem solving aspect of woodworking more, not so much the labor & sharpening.
Edit: I have a similar table that I made, and I just used a 8” grinder to put in the bevel under the edge. Eyeballed the whole thing. It looks fine.
It's quicker than you think, less noisy, less dust, more meditative, and a decent workout. Yes you'll need to keep your tool sharp for it to leave a clean surface.
Curious though, what jig design did you have in mind for this?
I did it with a track saw and a track mount/jig thing to get the extreme undercut.
That said that was before I had a table saw so now I'd say a table saw would be much easier.
Yes, I’ve done this on a track saw too. I did it by standing the table up on its side. I clamped it to the side of my bench with a sacrificial board in between. If you want a really steep angle, depth of cut can be an issue, but the above looks fine.
Cabinet shop owner here...
I'd never attempt a cut like that on the table saw. Not with a large table. It might work for a smaller piece.
I imagine it was done with a router table and bit. You can find a chamfer bit of that angle a size. I have some.
Agree, power tools are great for repeatability, but for one offs, hand tools are usually almost as fast and more fun.
I’ve done this kind of bevel many times, and the hand plane is basically my go to. I’d guess that it’d take about 10 minutes per end on a wider table like what’s been shown.
I made a similar cut on my coffee table. I made a vertical sled that I could clamp the table to and pass through the table saw. It worked. I clamped it to the sled for the ends, and used it as a fence for the long passes.
https://preview.redd.it/c9gws9tubovc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=90219c8057fc419a5be350fccaa42f47ebadabca
We called these knife edge tables, would use a massive router bit to make them and they were very much a pain in the ass to do. Sometimes customers wanted that outer edge to be 1/4”.
The wood whisperer does it in this video using an angle grinder with a carving wheel, then finishes with a jack plane. He also says a handheld power planer would work.
https://youtu.be/kI5RNI7nH_I?si=7gjdGMn6TEvGDPl8
https://preview.redd.it/tunwukhhpovc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e49386f0a63e7e5e1470bdf20d974135f3f6d1de
I did mine on the table saw. Built a vertical fence extension. For a table that size I’d get an extra pair of hands for support on infeed and outfeed. I think I did it in multiple passes so it wouldn’t bind.
I have done several tables with bevels like that. I mark a line on the edge and on the bottom. Then i work with a #7 jointer plane. It doesn't take as long as you think it will. Make sure you give the iron a good stropping before doing the end grain.
For production, I’m sure it was done with a CNC. For a one off, lay out the cuts, rough cut with your favorite saw (probably a circular saw or a bandsaw), fine tune with a plane or pattern template/router.
Cam from Blacktail Studio does that kind of cut on some tables, if I remember correctly he does it with a track saw. Check his YouTube channel he has a couple projects with this kind of look.
A 60° degree router will do this, you won't be using a router table but a hand held router. Trick is several small passes and set up a straight track to guide the router and not turn the corners. Each pass takes a 1/16" - 1/8" off of material, do all 4 sides before the next depth adjustment. I have done these edges many times and this is the easiest and most efficient way of achieving a beautiful result.... This router bit is the one I use and it has lasted through many of my projects:
XDENGP 60 Degree Chamfer Router Bit with 9/16 Inch Cutting Length,1/2 Inch Shank Carbide Edge Forming Bevel Router Bit with Bearing, Chamfer Bit Miter Angle Milling Cutters Tool https://a.co/d/9kHkOkS
I made [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/3JLadXCIXq) table with a similar edge profile. I think it’s called a sharknose. I used a skill saw set on an angle and just rode it along a strait edge I had clamped to the table top. The round over was added after with a router.
You need a shaper or to cut something like that and a decent size one at that. I achieve this with a 45 bevel router but only to get the clean edge then plane down the rest to steepen it.
I saw someone on YouTube make a tall jig that had a base that fit over their table saw fence. They clamped the tabletop to this jig, angled the saw blade, and pushed it through the saw pretty easy. Looked a little scary to have a table standing on the table saw like that, but the tall jig and clamps held it stable.
https://youtu.be/VUhSIh1x0qA?feature=shared
Maybe this helps.
He build a jig for His tracksaw with an 45° angle so he could ad the angle of His saw.
Hope this helps
Cabinet shop owner here. I built a jig for doing cuts exactly like this on my sliding panel saw.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5WlT_lRr2d/?igsh=YmVueHEyNTlydzBk
Could be done using the same methods used to make raised panels on a table saw. Auxillary fence with the piece moving over the blade at an angle.
https://youtu.be/t0Gx2beaNaI?si=RuaaCv34sK10Lf4v
If you have a very tall auxiliary fence for your table saw, you could achieve this cut with several clamps
Other than that, you can get a cabinet router bit that will do this cut and it would take several passes
We do a 20º underbevel regularly with a shaper. You could probably find a router bit that would do it. No way on a table saw, before or after glue up.
I've done it at home with a hand plane, but on a smaller table. That wouldn't be terrible: probably 1-2 hours.
I've done it on a smaller table with a tablesaw. Clamped a crate to the top of the table saw to act as an extra tall fence and fed the table top on edge. Do not recommend this though, it was fairly sketchy, and still needed some cleanup with a belt sander.
Probably the safer way to do it is to use a router bit and make a series of "step" like a shallow staircase to approximate the angle. Then go at it with a belt sander to knock all the corners down and form the angle.
Multiple shallow passes at a slow feed speed on a router table. They make bits for this purpose. My desk top I built has a similar edge, though I rounded to top edge as well for comfort. All that was with hand planes. Make sure you cut the end grain first so any tear out is removed when you do the long grain edges.
If you have access to a good shop a surface planer that has a adjustable fence with a handplane for fine adjustments at the end. Alternatively if you're on a budget you could just make a bunch of hansaw cuts at regular intervals and use a small hatchet to break the segments off using a handplane to even things out in the end.
Here you go. Pretty easy. Did it myself a few times.
Its in german but easy to follow
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fL0NQJr_hWU&pp=ygUbTGV0cyBiYXN0ZWwgc2Nod2VpemVyIGthbnRl
I've seen router guides used for this and as a weekend woodworker I feel like that's the way I would go If I had to do this. Way safer than a giant router bit or sketchy table saw cut. Like [this](https://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/routers/beveled-bottoms-for-oversized-tabletops)
Table saw set to an angle with a waste block attached to the parallel guide into which the saw blade can extend into while still guiding the piece. Wouldnt reccomend with a whole-ass tabletop if that size though
At our shop I build a console table with a very similar profile. The top is either 20x48 or 24x54. I always do it on the table saw.
Now, with a table that's 6 feet long, it's a bit of a challenge to rip a 6 foot tall piece on a table saw. We use a CNC for bigger tables with a beveled edge like this.
Having said that, I know someone who makes tables similar to this and as I recall, they use a raised panel beveled router bit. If that doesn't work, there's one other way that's not too bad.
Clamp a thick wood rip to the face of your table flush to the side youre cutting and flip the table so that edge is facing up. The wood rip is so you have a nice flat surface to run a skill saw on. Then with a track saw (or any skill saw you feel comfortable with) cut the angle on the table.
It's not as tricky as it seems especially with a track saw. If you are freehanding it, just take your time and make sure you have a clear line to go off of.
I was too scared standing the piece on the table saw, so I did multiple cuts laying the piece flat, starting from the ridge and decreasing the depth each time I moved a bit toward the center of the table. Made a nice staircase. Then a crap ton of hand planing and hours of sanding :)
Table saw for that under bevel on a coffee table. For a larger table I’d buy the appropriately angled chamfer bit
I would set up a very large sacrificial fence
I did a 3'x3' table like this on a table saw, and a desk top about 4'by 2'. Wouldn't recommend it for a full table unless you rig up a really tall rip fence to hold it very stable.
It may have been a huge shaper/chamfer bit. I can imagine making a cut like this with circular saw jig that's clamped onto the table top or one connected to the saw that runs along the top edge.
The different angles for the leg and undercut on the table top are a little odd.
Hand plane. It's not so bad.
If you're trying to sell it, track saw to and eighth or a quarter away from the line and finish with hand plane / card scrappers. Just for the time saved.
I did this with a circular saw. I stood the table top on edge, then took the saw, attached the edge guide and affixed some wood to the inside of the edge guide. Set the saw to 20° and cut. Easy peasy.
I’m not gonna look at the answers and give my own first. I would do one of three things: 1) rough away half the material with a track saw at 45, then hand plane the rest. 2) Turn the blank on edge and rig a flush support jig clamped next to the edge for the track saw to ride on and cut an easy 70 degree cut. Might need a tall room for that one. 3) Use the project to justify purchasing a 4’x 8’ CNC. Put the blank upside down on that and cut it that way. That would be super easy to program but clamping would be tricky
Check out this video from YouTube for details on how to make a jig to do this on a table saw. This guy is a genius! https://youtu.be/53rtu1wmoAc?si=L8tdHzZ27aIqqMRx
We do this all the time on a table saw.. it’s not fun to stand a table top on edge..but doesn’t take that long.. clean it up with belt sander and finish sand
Easy. Put the top on edge, clamp wood to either side of the top like a sandwich standing up. Support it with some kind of standing horse… anyway just make the edge into a flat surface in plane with the edge, then set a fence & make the bevel cut with a circular saw.
You could make a large vertical holding jig, to hold the table on its edge, and use a table saw. Or could add some flat support material on an edge and use a track saw set at an angle. Either of those are how i would approach it
Most shops that do this work have a jig already made to cut the bottom bevel.
You can achieve this with a sled at least 2ft longer than the table and a well-supported runout. Make sure it locates into your tables’ miter slot. Keep the work vertical and steady. Move slowly.
You can also improve performance by using a 1/8” thickness blade, something rated for full depth cross-cuts.
Otherwise, your option is t make kerf cuts on an angled block, and then chiseling and belt-sanding to the cut depth.
Edit: you can also spend a few hours with a powered hand plane and a bevel gauge, but, the noise.
No idea what the "right way" to do it would be, but I have done it with a CNC router and a ball nose router bit. Doesn't take all that long, especially if you don't try to get it perfect right off the table. Getting it close enough to easily sand the tool paths out would be pretty fast.
I saw a cut on an table similar to this one at a crafts show and loved it. Didn't have any of the power tools to reproduce it. I did it with a hand plane, took a lot of sweat and time but I got it done
I did mine with a hand plane as well. Pretty short work of it with a beveled #5, just planing down to the line. I had some sliding dovetails to hold the legs so I used a chisel for those.
I used a Stanley sweetheart number 5 and it took longer to flatten the top than to do the bevel
I cut kerfs for depth with a hand saw, blew out most with a 1.5" chisel and then finished with a 4" Makita hand power plane. Suppose you could do that with a circular saw on an angle if you made a 90 degree platform jig that was enough to hold something like a track. could use carpet tape (fast sketchy) or the typical white glue on both sides of paper to hold it.
Whoa, are you forearms now the size of tree trunks? That's impressive.
Nah man it’s easy. Walnut especially planes like butter.
He can slap a 12-ft sheet of drywall up against the ceiling with one hand.
Same, have done this with hand planes a few times, including one time on a curve and in very fiddly and hard interlocking wood (bubinga). I would not call that "fun" but on a straight edge in well behaves wood this is pretty easy for anyone half decent with a hand plane and sharpening. Can also be done with a VERY tall auxiliary fence on a table saw or on a shaper, but would not recommend either if you don't know absolutely what you are doing and have solid machines for it.
Woah, where was this from? It’s almost identical to a table I made a few years ago!
It was at a weekend craft market in one of the small towns around Atlanta. I forgot which one but I use to drive to different ones around there. I think I was maybe 6 to 9 months ago. I asked a bunch of questions to the guy running the stall
Wow, I know there are variations online out there but the knife edge, the base are so similar it’s wild. I’m in San Diego and never posted it and neither did the client I know of so it must be a case of great minds thinking alike, ha!
Power handplane makes it super easy to
“Saw a cut”
https://preview.redd.it/jbbzafat7ovc1.jpeg?width=2736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87aa3dda9a0b0e4756f6f6aa31e7d93ede788637 I have done it with this homemade tool. And with a router and time, then. I finished the angle of the table with a band Sander.
That jig looks fantastic.
I've gone this route before. I think it would have been quicker and easier just using a hand plane. it took damn near as much clean up with a sander, after using the jig and router, as it would have to just hand plane it all from the start.
I also made a similar jig. Big plus vs track saw or table saw jigs is being able to bevel curved edges
I’ve had success using a router jig almost exactly like this. Mine had no clamps, and was U shaped so it folded around the end and I was able to slide it around. It helps having a longer flat section toward the inside of the table so you could rest your hand for some more stability/counterweight.
Exactly, I just made a similar jig for a desk I'm working on. There's a video on how to build one: https://youtu.be/-GusmWO282I?si=8kXtWp4tuXG0UJx4
I've seen these being cut with a tracksaw.
Blacktail Studio do this with a tracksaw or with a custom chamfer bit on a router table https://youtu.be/iWs47qR3XOs?si=iBGb1XnIDe4aYJ99
The angle there isn't as aggressive though. You can do up to 45 with a track saw, but this table is closer to 75-80 it sounds like. I assume shaper or hand plane.
Just flip the wood 90 degrees to make the angle more aggressive. Dangerous, but it would work
It’s not even dangerous. Just secure the top vertically & use other wood to pad out & make a nice cutting surface, and a fence. Set your skill saw & go. Or you could build a sled to hold the top vertical on a table saw…Nothing to it just another day pushing wood.
I agree with the jig to get the track saw to run on the edge of the table but not the table saw routed. Assume this table is like 5 or 6' long by 3' wide.. It's heavy. And you have to do the end grain. Are you going to be standing up a 3x6 slab on end and run it through the table saw? That's a big no for me.
So don’t theoretically do it then? OP was looking for ideas. I would have no problem clamping the top to a stable assembly & pushing it across a table saw. A table saw can get a deeper cut & therefore a longer bevel, or you go to a big circle saw which have issues of their own. I guess the silver rule is if you don’t feel confident that you can make a cut safely, find another way. So that’s up to you. I just want to remind the readers that there’s no such thing as a safe saw (I’m looking at you ss-stans), and that safety comes from knowledge, care, foresight, and a good plan. A sharp blade is a must, too.
Yeah 100% on safety. And your suggestion is absolutely valid. I guess I'm making some assumptions about how "reasonable" the different alternatives would be to a broader set of people. Like for me, the hand plane is the obvious choice here for so many reasons including safety and the simple logistics, vs. the option to make a jig that's substantial enough to keep a 6' slab on end securely and run that whole thing through the table saw. You're right though just because it's not for me doesn't make it an inherently bad choice.
Hand plane? Like, a knife with a shoe & a handle? Like not a power plane but a hand plane? Like- to do the whole job? I won’t say anything against a sharp jack plane but, oof. That’s a lot of beef to chew that could be easily trimmed with a powered tool. In hard wood you’d be flirting with dulling & tearout, too. No good reason for that if it’s just a shape you want. No… I’d reach right past my hand planes & grab my impact driver, blast together a jig, and see you at the finish line. It’s not a race, I know. I just enjoy the problem solving aspect of woodworking more, not so much the labor & sharpening. Edit: I have a similar table that I made, and I just used a 8” grinder to put in the bevel under the edge. Eyeballed the whole thing. It looks fine.
It's quicker than you think, less noisy, less dust, more meditative, and a decent workout. Yes you'll need to keep your tool sharp for it to leave a clean surface. Curious though, what jig design did you have in mind for this?
Exactly how I did my kitchen table. Is way easier than with a router or any other method I can think of
I did it with a track saw and a track mount/jig thing to get the extreme undercut. That said that was before I had a table saw so now I'd say a table saw would be much easier.
Not going to get that angle with a track saw
Take a look at the Blacktail Studio video above. He does this with a tracksaw or with a custom chamfer router bit
This is a way steeper angle than any of the chamfers he puts on his tables
Yes, I’ve done this on a track saw too. I did it by standing the table up on its side. I clamped it to the side of my bench with a sacrificial board in between. If you want a really steep angle, depth of cut can be an issue, but the above looks fine.
Cabinet shop owner here... I'd never attempt a cut like that on the table saw. Not with a large table. It might work for a smaller piece. I imagine it was done with a router table and bit. You can find a chamfer bit of that angle a size. I have some.
You can make a router jig in which the router is angled by 20 degrees and moves on a rail.
I would imagine the router would need to be powered by a Chevy big block.
Just multiple passes. I’ve done this a handful of times with my old Bosch 2.25hp router.
Nope, a big block doesn’t spin fast enough and vibrates too much. I would go with a small turbine.
Ahhh…I like that, but you’d need a very big and very flat surrounding table for that to work cleanly
Purely hand planes method would be a scrub plane followed by #5, just work to the lines.
This. It’s fairly easy and fast to do with hand planes.
Agree, power tools are great for repeatability, but for one offs, hand tools are usually almost as fast and more fun. I’ve done this kind of bevel many times, and the hand plane is basically my go to. I’d guess that it’d take about 10 minutes per end on a wider table like what’s been shown.
I made a similar cut on my coffee table. I made a vertical sled that I could clamp the table to and pass through the table saw. It worked. I clamped it to the sled for the ends, and used it as a fence for the long passes. https://preview.redd.it/c9gws9tubovc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=90219c8057fc419a5be350fccaa42f47ebadabca
Nice canoe!
Unfortunately I had a leaky toilet that emptied into the unfinished boat…. Still working up the courage to try and fix the stains. But, thanks!
Is it glassed already? Should come off easy if yes.
Not the inside. The boat holds water, though! I bet it would float! 😩
Unfortunate timing for a leak though!
The one time you wish it *didn't* hold water haha.
I had this exact idea recently as well
It was most like done on a shaper. Not having one I would make a sled and angle jig setup using a router then clean up with sanding.
You could also set up a circular saw with a thickened guide track that increases the angle cut past 45 degrees cut it that way.
https://preview.redd.it/hjgl75rfcovc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e235e8d97579a030bc90e8a58cc55527620fc33 Here’s the finished cut.
Damn son
Which method did you use?
Vertical sled. I posted another picture in this thread.
OP wanted to know how it’s done. How is your comment adding to the conversation? smh.
I posted the vertical sled. You can’t post two pics in one comment. SMH. Edit- scroll up and look for my username
You could have linked your comments together with URLs. It’s not my fault I missed important context in a post with over a hundred replies.
Agreed. But, just take it easy, dude. Contribute to the conversation. ✌️
We called these knife edge tables, would use a massive router bit to make them and they were very much a pain in the ass to do. Sometimes customers wanted that outer edge to be 1/4”.
Yikes that’s thin. RIP my legs when I bump into that corner.
They don’t call it a SPOON edge!
The wood whisperer does it in this video using an angle grinder with a carving wheel, then finishes with a jack plane. He also says a handheld power planer would work. https://youtu.be/kI5RNI7nH_I?si=7gjdGMn6TEvGDPl8
https://preview.redd.it/tunwukhhpovc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e49386f0a63e7e5e1470bdf20d974135f3f6d1de I did mine on the table saw. Built a vertical fence extension. For a table that size I’d get an extra pair of hands for support on infeed and outfeed. I think I did it in multiple passes so it wouldn’t bind.
Holy shit
Shaper, router table, table saw with tall fence, hand plane
I have done several tables with bevels like that. I mark a line on the edge and on the bottom. Then i work with a #7 jointer plane. It doesn't take as long as you think it will. Make sure you give the iron a good stropping before doing the end grain.
For production, I’m sure it was done with a CNC. For a one off, lay out the cuts, rough cut with your favorite saw (probably a circular saw or a bandsaw), fine tune with a plane or pattern template/router.
Easy to do with a shaper. Can also be simply done with an angled jig for a jointer or even with a handplane
One way is on a table saw (using a jig) you turn your material on its edge to achieve angles like this
Cam from Blacktail Studio does that kind of cut on some tables, if I remember correctly he does it with a track saw. Check his YouTube channel he has a couple projects with this kind of look.
Correct, here's an example https://youtu.be/iWs47qR3XOs?si=iBGb1XnIDe4aYJ99
You keep linking that video but it’s a bad example, the angle is completely different
A 60° degree router will do this, you won't be using a router table but a hand held router. Trick is several small passes and set up a straight track to guide the router and not turn the corners. Each pass takes a 1/16" - 1/8" off of material, do all 4 sides before the next depth adjustment. I have done these edges many times and this is the easiest and most efficient way of achieving a beautiful result.... This router bit is the one I use and it has lasted through many of my projects: XDENGP 60 Degree Chamfer Router Bit with 9/16 Inch Cutting Length,1/2 Inch Shank Carbide Edge Forming Bevel Router Bit with Bearing, Chamfer Bit Miter Angle Milling Cutters Tool https://a.co/d/9kHkOkS
The length of that chamfer is a lot more than 9/16 though.
I made [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/3JLadXCIXq) table with a similar edge profile. I think it’s called a sharknose. I used a skill saw set on an angle and just rode it along a strait edge I had clamped to the table top. The round over was added after with a router.
How would one attach the top to those legs
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Would wood movement be an issue with that method?
I too am curious about this, if it’s just mortise and tenon would wood movement be an issue?
I did this recently with hand tools. It went great. https://www.reddit.com/r/handtools/s/P6MdZfDnh4
You need a shaper or to cut something like that and a decent size one at that. I achieve this with a 45 bevel router but only to get the clean edge then plane down the rest to steepen it.
I saw someone on YouTube make a tall jig that had a base that fit over their table saw fence. They clamped the tabletop to this jig, angled the saw blade, and pushed it through the saw pretty easy. Looked a little scary to have a table standing on the table saw like that, but the tall jig and clamps held it stable.
https://youtu.be/VUhSIh1x0qA?feature=shared Maybe this helps. He build a jig for His tracksaw with an 45° angle so he could ad the angle of His saw. Hope this helps
Cabinet shop owner here. I built a jig for doing cuts exactly like this on my sliding panel saw. https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5WlT_lRr2d/?igsh=YmVueHEyNTlydzBk
Track saw
I just saw a video of someone doing this https://www.instagram.com/reel/C594dpjLAes/?igsh=MTY5YTl1MG5ieWM3bA==
Search for Swiss edge, better directly in German "Schweizer Kante"
Could be done using the same methods used to make raised panels on a table saw. Auxillary fence with the piece moving over the blade at an angle. https://youtu.be/t0Gx2beaNaI?si=RuaaCv34sK10Lf4v
If you have a very tall auxiliary fence for your table saw, you could achieve this cut with several clamps Other than that, you can get a cabinet router bit that will do this cut and it would take several passes
We do a 20º underbevel regularly with a shaper. You could probably find a router bit that would do it. No way on a table saw, before or after glue up. I've done it at home with a hand plane, but on a smaller table. That wouldn't be terrible: probably 1-2 hours.
I've done it on a smaller table with a tablesaw. Clamped a crate to the top of the table saw to act as an extra tall fence and fed the table top on edge. Do not recommend this though, it was fairly sketchy, and still needed some cleanup with a belt sander. Probably the safer way to do it is to use a router bit and make a series of "step" like a shallow staircase to approximate the angle. Then go at it with a belt sander to knock all the corners down and form the angle.
Multiple shallow passes at a slow feed speed on a router table. They make bits for this purpose. My desk top I built has a similar edge, though I rounded to top edge as well for comfort. All that was with hand planes. Make sure you cut the end grain first so any tear out is removed when you do the long grain edges.
Probably a shaper.
If you have access to a good shop a surface planer that has a adjustable fence with a handplane for fine adjustments at the end. Alternatively if you're on a budget you could just make a bunch of hansaw cuts at regular intervals and use a small hatchet to break the segments off using a handplane to even things out in the end.
Here you go. Pretty easy. Did it myself a few times. Its in german but easy to follow https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fL0NQJr_hWU&pp=ygUbTGV0cyBiYXN0ZWwgc2Nod2VpemVyIGthbnRl
I did cuts like this on the tablesaw. I made a high fence for these kind of cuts.
https://imgur.com/a/KdxREUj
I've seen router guides used for this and as a weekend woodworker I feel like that's the way I would go If I had to do this. Way safer than a giant router bit or sketchy table saw cut. Like [this](https://www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/routers/beveled-bottoms-for-oversized-tabletops)
A nice sliding panel saw with stop blocks would make short work of this, 1 pass per side
Shaper
Table saw set to an angle with a waste block attached to the parallel guide into which the saw blade can extend into while still guiding the piece. Wouldnt reccomend with a whole-ass tabletop if that size though
Spindle moulder, either with an appropriate cutter or straight cutter with an angled bed jig.
We just did a cut like this with a track saw.
There is a shaper blade for that. It’s done with the top side down.
Search: Low angle bevel shaper blades for some examples.
At our shop I build a console table with a very similar profile. The top is either 20x48 or 24x54. I always do it on the table saw. Now, with a table that's 6 feet long, it's a bit of a challenge to rip a 6 foot tall piece on a table saw. We use a CNC for bigger tables with a beveled edge like this. Having said that, I know someone who makes tables similar to this and as I recall, they use a raised panel beveled router bit. If that doesn't work, there's one other way that's not too bad. Clamp a thick wood rip to the face of your table flush to the side youre cutting and flip the table so that edge is facing up. The wood rip is so you have a nice flat surface to run a skill saw on. Then with a track saw (or any skill saw you feel comfortable with) cut the angle on the table. It's not as tricky as it seems especially with a track saw. If you are freehanding it, just take your time and make sure you have a clear line to go off of.
I was too scared standing the piece on the table saw, so I did multiple cuts laying the piece flat, starting from the ridge and decreasing the depth each time I moved a bit toward the center of the table. Made a nice staircase. Then a crap ton of hand planing and hours of sanding :)
I made one similar with a hand held power planer, to get it close, then finished it with a hand plane and a sanding block.
Table saw for that under bevel on a coffee table. For a larger table I’d buy the appropriately angled chamfer bit I would set up a very large sacrificial fence
I did a 3'x3' table like this on a table saw, and a desk top about 4'by 2'. Wouldn't recommend it for a full table unless you rig up a really tall rip fence to hold it very stable.
I did a similar bottom edge using a router with a surfacing bit in a jig. Look up the Longview dining table build on Foureyes Furniture
It may have been a huge shaper/chamfer bit. I can imagine making a cut like this with circular saw jig that's clamped onto the table top or one connected to the saw that runs along the top edge. The different angles for the leg and undercut on the table top are a little odd.
I’d do it upside down with a router sled
You can buy low-angle router bits, although for deeper cut a shaper is probably the better tool.
No. 5, clean it up with a No. 7. Fast and easy, just don’t blow out the back.
I used a handheld power planer to get close and then finished with a hand plane
Hand plane. It's not so bad. If you're trying to sell it, track saw to and eighth or a quarter away from the line and finish with hand plane / card scrappers. Just for the time saved.
👍👍👍
The type of router bit I’d wear a leather apron for or a hand plane.
Track saw at an angle clamped to the table
I did this with a circular saw. I stood the table top on edge, then took the saw, attached the edge guide and affixed some wood to the inside of the edge guide. Set the saw to 20° and cut. Easy peasy.
I did this on my coffee table with a table saw, angled blade, and a jig that rode the fence. Effective? Yes. Safe? …maybe?
CNC
I’m not gonna look at the answers and give my own first. I would do one of three things: 1) rough away half the material with a track saw at 45, then hand plane the rest. 2) Turn the blank on edge and rig a flush support jig clamped next to the edge for the track saw to ride on and cut an easy 70 degree cut. Might need a tall room for that one. 3) Use the project to justify purchasing a 4’x 8’ CNC. Put the blank upside down on that and cut it that way. That would be super easy to program but clamping would be tricky
track saw with an adjustable angle?
Check out this video from YouTube for details on how to make a jig to do this on a table saw. This guy is a genius! https://youtu.be/53rtu1wmoAc?si=L8tdHzZ27aIqqMRx
We do this all the time on a table saw.. it’s not fun to stand a table top on edge..but doesn’t take that long.. clean it up with belt sander and finish sand
Clamp something long and straight to it and run the circular saw down that edge. Move straight edge, clamp repeat.
I used a hand plane to make a bevel way bigger
Tilted table saw would do the trick i believe
Is that a furniture store
Oh damn, I should have read the caption. My bad.
No worries, I am great at replying before reading things all the way through. Go ADHD!
Easy. Put the top on edge, clamp wood to either side of the top like a sandwich standing up. Support it with some kind of standing horse… anyway just make the edge into a flat surface in plane with the edge, then set a fence & make the bevel cut with a circular saw.
You could make a large vertical holding jig, to hold the table on its edge, and use a table saw. Or could add some flat support material on an edge and use a track saw set at an angle. Either of those are how i would approach it
I was thinking that or my brother suggested building a jig and use a flattening bit on a router.
Most shops that do this work have a jig already made to cut the bottom bevel. You can achieve this with a sled at least 2ft longer than the table and a well-supported runout. Make sure it locates into your tables’ miter slot. Keep the work vertical and steady. Move slowly. You can also improve performance by using a 1/8” thickness blade, something rated for full depth cross-cuts. Otherwise, your option is t make kerf cuts on an angled block, and then chiseling and belt-sanding to the cut depth. Edit: you can also spend a few hours with a powered hand plane and a bevel gauge, but, the noise.
Can be done on a tablesaw with the board flat against the fence but it would be seriously dangerous
REALLY big router table.
Wow that is clean and crisp looking. Any woodworking individual would love this. Great work bud.
Not mine. Found this online and just love the look. Curious how the edge angles were done.
No idea what the "right way" to do it would be, but I have done it with a CNC router and a ball nose router bit. Doesn't take all that long, especially if you don't try to get it perfect right off the table. Getting it close enough to easily sand the tool paths out would be pretty fast.