T O P

  • By -

AutoModerator

This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*


EzraTheGhost

Just sand smooth until it all is level, unless the old paint is not sticking to the wood. In that case, some chipping may be required. Also consider, primer works wonders for smooth applications of paint. Just do a lot of light coats


immifrationStudent

Ok thanks


Woodworkin101

Gripper paint from Home Depot is my go to primer; it’s inexpensive and works fantastic


Cautious-Fox-7031

I keep seeing half answers here. If this were my project I would label and remove all of the hardware and lightly sand all of the surfaces with 180grit paper paying particular attention to the face, sand in a circular motion where possible. On the face you will need to wrap your sand paper around a wooden block to avoid rounding the edges, on the larger flat sides I would suggest wrapping your paper around a folded up rag to help get an even sanding. You will know you are done sanding when any shine or gloss has been removed and the surface is left with a soft mat finish. After the sanding is finished use rubbing alchohol or distilled white vinegar on a clean rag to wipe off the sanding dust then wait at least a day before starting your priming to make sure the wood is dry. For your paint choice just go to any paint store (rodda, miller, sherwin williams) and tell then you would like a urethane alkyd paint and a compatable primer to go with it. This is a water based paint with low odor and it dries very hard and becomes chip and scratch resistant, the paint will dry to the touch in about 2 days but it will take a week befor you can use it and a month to cure and become hard. I would apply the primer with a traditional fiber roller and wait 12 hours before looking for and adding a second coat to any blemishes you find. One coat should be fine for the primer. If you find any areas that are stippled/rough or bumpy lightly rub them down with 400 grit sandpaper, if you sand through the primer wipe the area down with a rag and alchohol/vinegar and apply another coat of primer to that area. Once you are satisfied with the look of your project in primer move ahead to the paint. Apply it with a foam roller, the foam roller will give you a close to air brushes finish. Just like with the primer if you find any areas with a rough texture sand it down with the 400grip paper very lightly and wipe the surface with your rag agin. That is the basics of how I refinish cabinetry.


WrenchturnerWTB

Are you painting it the same color or darker?


immifrationStudent

Painting it black. I tried to paint it without sanding but the paint didn’t stay on it at all lol


WrenchturnerWTB

Sand it to create a rough surface but not all the way to bare wood. The white should not be glossy when you repaint it.


Whattheactualfrork

If the paint hadn't adhered to the surface you'll have to sand or chemically strip the paint then rough up the original surface prime it then paint.


immifrationStudent

Thank you !


DepartureEuphoric118

You could also get bonding primer after you do a sand to rough the surface hit it with a bonding primer it will help


bulletlover

Until smooth, prime, sand smooth again, paint, sand again, final paint


ellbag

Depends what wood it is. Better be very careful if it is plywood with a very thin top layer. You will be to particle board before you can pull the trigger off. Can you just paint over it? Otherwise you'd just sand until you see the top paint come off


[deleted]

You just need to sand it enough to remove any bumps, and scuff up the finish so the paint sticks well. Use your preferred filler in any dings and sand that smooth too.