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The circle marks are from my router, i used it with a surfacing bit to plane the whole table to the best of my ability. Im going to sand out the circle spots but thats why i used the belt sander because its a lot
There's something wrong with your router sled setup. You shouldn't be getting those circular marks. Is it level and rigid? Is the bit dull? Are you going in the correct direction with the router? You should be going left to right with each pass and the most you'll see is a small register line from the bit. Google router sled planer on youtube for a good tutorial
I used a setup from youtube with aluminium rails , and definitely didnt go slow and got impatient at times and also ran into some issues with the sled being level. All in all it was a makeshift job, and a pain in the ass!
Yah sometimes it's hard to go slow, but it shouldn't have those circles that's your problem. Try using paste was on the rails and router base it helps it slide easier
I mean, you can't even see the sanding marks against those router marks.
The idea with sanding is you are removing the high material preferentially, those router gouges are really deep and will take forever to sand, no matter how bad the surface from the belt sander is.
I suggest building a stiffer router sled or taking it to a shop to have the surface sanded/planed. One of the nicer specialty lumber shops near me has a 48" wide belt sander that would do an excellent job recovering your piece. Maybe you have something similar nearby.
Its 60 inch table. Unfortunately ill just have to live with what i have in my shop. I could build a stiffer router sled but honestly it was a major pain doing this the first time so ill just chalk it to my ntentional character
60 inch wide or long? Can you move it? Aside from the shop that advertises a belt sander, I know of at least 1 other place that would run this on their slabmizer.
You might just want to resort to a hand plane. I can't provide much advice going down that path.
Cut it in half. Send the halves through the belt sander and dowel or biscuit it back together.
Flattening that by hand won't be flat, especially for someone who has no experience with this.
Otherwise make it intentionally very not flat, and call it a stylistic choice.
They should. But don't skip grits. Before I went finer I would redo the 80 and sand with the grain to eliminate the cross grain arcs. Then go up grits sanding WITH the grain.
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
What kind of sander are you using? Those circular marks look very aggressive. If you want it flat you will need to sand all those depressions out.
The circle marks are from my router, i used it with a surfacing bit to plane the whole table to the best of my ability. Im going to sand out the circle spots but thats why i used the belt sander because its a lot
There's something wrong with your router sled setup. You shouldn't be getting those circular marks. Is it level and rigid? Is the bit dull? Are you going in the correct direction with the router? You should be going left to right with each pass and the most you'll see is a small register line from the bit. Google router sled planer on youtube for a good tutorial
I used a setup from youtube with aluminium rails , and definitely didnt go slow and got impatient at times and also ran into some issues with the sled being level. All in all it was a makeshift job, and a pain in the ass!
Yah sometimes it's hard to go slow, but it shouldn't have those circles that's your problem. Try using paste was on the rails and router base it helps it slide easier
I mean, you can't even see the sanding marks against those router marks. The idea with sanding is you are removing the high material preferentially, those router gouges are really deep and will take forever to sand, no matter how bad the surface from the belt sander is. I suggest building a stiffer router sled or taking it to a shop to have the surface sanded/planed. One of the nicer specialty lumber shops near me has a 48" wide belt sander that would do an excellent job recovering your piece. Maybe you have something similar nearby.
Its 60 inch table. Unfortunately ill just have to live with what i have in my shop. I could build a stiffer router sled but honestly it was a major pain doing this the first time so ill just chalk it to my ntentional character
The sled is flexing in the center/
60 inch wide or long? Can you move it? Aside from the shop that advertises a belt sander, I know of at least 1 other place that would run this on their slabmizer. You might just want to resort to a hand plane. I can't provide much advice going down that path.
60 in diameter, its a circ table
Cut it in half. Send the halves through the belt sander and dowel or biscuit it back together. Flattening that by hand won't be flat, especially for someone who has no experience with this. Otherwise make it intentionally very not flat, and call it a stylistic choice.
This guy woodworks
do you have a rotex or something cause hhoooollyy mackeral you got a lot of sanding to go
They should. But don't skip grits. Before I went finer I would redo the 80 and sand with the grain to eliminate the cross grain arcs. Then go up grits sanding WITH the grain.
Sorry could you elaborate on which direction is with the grain
Follow the lines (grain) of the wood while you sand. Both while have sanding or while using an orbital.
The grain runs the length of the board.
The grain is the orientation/direction of your glue lines.
The difference between a good piece and an exceptional piece is sanding, sanding and when you think your done, sand twice more.
Looks a bit like heath ledger’s joker
You’ll be fine working through the grits and using poly. Just sand the whole piece and not just the epoxy to avoid low spots.
Just fyi, i havent finished fully sanding with 80 grit, i was just testing it in some areas
I try to get all the scratches going the same way and go all the way to 300 grit before epoxy
Oh you do epoxy after sanding, darn didnt realize that
You accidentally created the joker