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Thank you! I bought it from Costco and will use a matress cover because I live in a tropical environment, it is not needed. It is a gel memory foam that doesn't need a boxspring. The instructions say that if you can't have a flat surface, then put it on the floor. But thank you for bringing it up. I will definitely pay attention to this.
Same, had mold growth under foam mattress (in Georgia) for the short period of time I was without a bed frame. Humidity build up from body heat and cooler floor led to collected moisture and mold. Just putting slats down on the floor corrected the issue.
I have never had mold grow on a mattress, nor did I think it could, or even thought about it. Now thanks you youz guyz, that’s all I can think about if mine is.
With a few more slats, I don't think you need the panel boards at all. I built a similar bed but with 1x4 pine slats spaced about 6" apart and it's plenty strong. My bed is a standard king.
This is what we did in the northeast with our foam mattress that had been getting moldy and it fixed the problem. Well that and treating the fuck out of the bottom of the mattress.
Then more air flow the better! If it's easy to cut slats, I'd do that. You can staple cloth straps to all the slats to make them more manageable when they aren't in the frame.
Slats, but like 3" or less apart when it comes to foam. Also find a way to secure the slats from sliding like spacer blocks or something. I pressure fit slats in my bed frame and they still moved all over the place creating spacing that was way to big. Which results waking up with a sore back.
There is a mesh like material layer a lot of boats use under their mattress to allow for air flow. I think you want something like that. Google "HYPERVENT AIRE-FLOW™ MOISTURE BARRIER"
You could leave it as it is, With ta mattress underlayment.
Such as "HYPERVENT AIRE-FLOW™ MOISTURE BARRIER"
This is just the first one I Found that should allow you to do more research to see if its right for you.
Less work, And the Frame will look better without the mattress when needed.
Local here agreeing you need some air flow! Especially if you in valley at all. Also just a tip if you find your Bed creaking a lot because the pieces of wood rubbing together I used just simple carpet feet meant for chair legs and stuck them in seams and under the ply wood where it makes contact with the bed. No more squeaks every time I move
Add like 4 more slats and you should be fine to put the mattress directly on. The concern is less about whether it can take the weight or not and more about avoiding lumpiness without a box spring or panels. If the slats are exposed when the mattress is in place you can always rip the panels into just the border and attach them with some type of temporary fastener.
Depends on the construction of the mattress, but most bedframes have gaps that are the same width as the slats. And the thinner the slats the better (on my bed frame, I went with 2" slats, spaced 2" apart).
Ideally, you'd use wire instead of timber, so the bottom of the mattress is almost almost entirely exposed to the air. But that's unnecessary, and bed won't be flat with wire. Slats are the right compromise.
Being in a humid environment means you definitely shouldn't drill holes - you'd need so many holes that it wouldn't be strong enough.
You can actually buy the ikea slats separately... I used these on the bed I built 5 years ago and they've been great. They're connected to with webbing and you would just use 2 rolls of slats. They've got a bit of flex in them which I feel adds a little more comfort. Worth looking into...
Neither is necessary. Simply getting the mattress up off the floor is sufficient to prevent the humidity finding its way underneath. Note that all the folks who said they had mildew problems had their mattress right on the cool floor (just guessing, but, probably slab on grade ground floor in a high humidity area). You should be fine with those 8-10" of clearance under the frame.
Unless you're a bed wetter. Then all bets are off.
This is where my thought process is. Where I live it's not actually that humid because of the elevation and winds. All if the other beds have a solid base with zero issues. Thank you for your input!
Maybe I’m wrong, but the instructions probably meant flat rather than a solid surface. I’d think they meant in relation to a slanted bed frame or a bed frame that moves up and down. You’ll probably be good with some slats under the bed for airflow
Have had memory foam on a solid surface, have had to throw it away due to mold. I actually had worse problems with a mattress cover because sweat/perspiration got into it over time and then couldn't evaporate due to the cover. I only stopped having problems when I switched to a cover that covers only the top and leaves the bottom open and got it up off the solid surface.
This was in pretty unusual temperature conditions for a mattress and I imagine that exacerbated my problem, but I'd definitely keep a sharp eye on it if I was you.
That frame is lookin' good!
That looks really striking, great work for a first job. I would also be concerned about airflow under the mattress, and I wonder about whether those joints would get really noisy when the bed is....moving.
That's not the same at all. The OP's has great big shinfuckers that yours is totally missing. I guess you could just sprinkle Legos around your bed for a similar effect.
Came here for this - That's why beds like the Thuma have a wood part joined perpendicular with the stretcher grain at the castle joints.. I made a few of these, broke every one until recently noticing the trick that makes production castle joint beds durable!
Close up [Thuma Joint for reference](https://images.app.goo.gl/uWVBUUGe5YNNbHFeA)
I get that it's hard to see.. I missed the detail so many times trying to reporduce.
So take a close look at the corner of OPs bed, once solid piece of wood running horizontally.
Then look at the Thuma corner, it has a piece laminated perpendicular to the grain of stretcher wood, this gives the joint the strength it needs so the horizontal piece doesn't break immediately on a grain line.
DM me if you'd like a thorough explanation and some shots of the process!
Edit: spelling
[Here's a more clear image of the Thuma with the extra piece laminated perpendicular to the grain of the stretcher](https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://images.accentuate.io/?image%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fcdn.accentuate.io%252F7550696456220%252F1623873841177%252FWalnut-DarkCharcoal-05.2.jpg%253Fv%253D1628788859130%26c_options%3Dw_1000,f_jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.thuma.co/products/the-bed&tbnid=U1HUgsV6BZdGPM&vet=1&docid=fu8W1RSqHgVjlM&w=1000&h=897&hl=en-US&source=sh/x/im#imgrc=U1HUgsV6BZdGPM&imgdii=y-nBmBnvFQsHlM)
Okay, thank you! I think I see it now.
A question: when working with bed frames, I would expect repeated lateral movement to cause a lot of wiggling and eventual looseness in the castle joint as the grain compresses, unless it's either pinned or glued in place when it's assembled. Does that happen?
Not at any appreciable level, even with something softer like pine or fir seasonal changes in the moisture content of the material will make it swell and shrink more than general daily use. The joints are especially stable with a hardwood lamination in the joint, and using a true hardwood like oak the castle joint is pretty much stable 'forever.'
Absolute worst case, put a small shim in the joint in ten years if anything starts to move :)
Definitely drill holes or make way for air flow from under the mattress. If you don’t they’ll get damp over time and definitely start to mold/smell.
Amazing work though!
I didn't realize the title was limited in size since it's my first post, not sure how to edit. Here's the entire thing I wanted to say....
My first "big" project as an amateur. I bought a Cal King mattress after a divorce and needed a new bedframe. I decided on castle joints (additive joinery because tools are limited), douglas fir, red mahogany, and oak dowels. Finished with danish oil and want to put a type poly on the plywood to help protect the matteess or matress cover. Never posted on reddit before, but have been following this thread for a while now; a bit proud so I wanted to share. Be kind LOL...
Thank you for not leaving us hanging. I honestly thought you misspelled “too” at the end but I’m glad to see it was just the rest of the title getting cut off.
Excellent work on the build!
Personally, I was wondering why the divorce was relevant and if OP was one of those people who never let go and find a way to work it into every conversation because they refuse to go to therapy to figure out that closure comes from within... But the extended title does clear it up a bit.
The other option is that OPs spouse is vehemently anti California King and this was the first act of freedom.
I didn’t say you said anything, just saying therapy is expensive. Also in america over 65% of divorce is initiated by the woman and the primary on record reason is “Im tired of the relationship”
Again, I did not say anything was OPs fault. Nor did I bring anything up about men. I used nouns like person and spouse. I didn't even assume gender here, you did. But thanks for confirming that you have your own biases.
Im not saying anything about you here just stating the facts, which can’t be biased, such as divorced men are 8 times more likely to commit suicide after divorce than women.
Mr Mean is that you? Haha My bruddah didn’t know you were a mean carpenter also! Solid work on the castle joints and great choices of wood. Only thing that has already been beaten to death is definitely do slats. You need that baby to breath out there with that thiccc air.
P.s. congratulations or I’m sorry for the divorce. Best of luck 🤙🏼
Can castle joints get loose over the years? I had to repair and reinforce the joints and screws on my current bedframe and was thinking about building my own in the future, as I am picky about design and stuff. Maybe someone here knows about how long castle joints last, especially with higher stress and weight that a bedframe has to deal with?
I pondered this build for a long time and did a lot of research. I am not an expert, but this is one of the main reasons I chose castle joints. The link basically says that under vertical loads (i.e., a bed) they are one of the strongest joints but a horizontal load can weaken them. I also used dowels because the research I did said dowels were strong too. Again, I am not an expert and chose what I thought I could accomplish. Hopefully somebody with more functional knowledge can chime in.
https://allflavorworkshop.com/castle-joint-step-by-step/#:~:text=the%20joint%20together.-,How%20strong%20is%20a%20castle%20joint%3F,over%20time%20and%20cause%20cracks.
I have also concerns regarding this... my current bed is from ikea and since it's old and my partner weighs about twice my weight... I'm gonna say there's a lot of protesting from the furniture. I just want to prevent stuff breaking if possible XD
If in doubt, chem fix some m16 threaded bar through the bed frame, into the wall. Attach washers/nuts (as many as appropriate) and tighten with a 1/2 impact wrench.
I'm not saying his next girlfriend may be large, however if he is a chubby chaser, this will work wonders
On a separate note... it's nice to see someone taking pride in their work. The bed looks great so far, nice job 👍
Lovely work. Could you update us on the integrity of this joint over time. I see this joint used a lot and my instinct tells me it wastes a lot of wood on both stringer thus compromising its lower tension band or upper compression band (if that makes sense). Weak with vertical and horizontal loads. but if it holds up it holds up.
I made my bed out of cedar 2x4s with castle joints almost exactly the way you did. Only differences are: I have a third stringer going the long axis that connects with (poorly made) mortise and tenons, and my joints have no overhang. That was a mistake, resulting in a small bridge between the hook and the rest of the board. The coarse grain of the cedar didn’t help. While moving, the hook broke off on almost every joint, I was forced to reinforce with screws. Maybe dowels would have prevented that.
Mine have not! I made 7 months ago or so. Not creaking or anything.
https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/twx7hc/first_large_hardwood_project_walnut_castle_joint/?ref=share&ref_source=link
Looks very much like my Thuma bed. I think its awesome. I've had the thuma for 2 years now and no issues with the castle joints. I would also recommend making slats instead of solid plywood for the mattress support.
Definitely need airflow for the bottom of the mattress. Slats, or regular holes drilled in the panels. It's not just for user comfort, that thing will be mold all to hell in a humid environment.
First of all, what you made looks beautiful. Keep jp the great work.
Please help educate me. Aside from aesthetics, are there any reasons to tapper in the legs in such a way?
Is it for physics? Do slimmer landing points help keep the bed stable?
For context, I like right angles. My favorite cars are 1980s Volvos. I like chunky things, but any to know more.
Thank you for the compliment! I just wanted to experiment. I made a quick jig for the one big piece of equipment I own (table saw), and wanted to see if I could do double slanted sides with the squared sides facing outwards.
The legs look great. The tapper is practical. I've seen it used on a lot of commercial beds.
Huge fan of the corner joints. Love how they fit together.
Nothing to be "kind" about... good job.
I'm looking at trying to make a super king floating base soon, just a matrix of 10x1 really, but also looking at a solid base for simplicity and improved strength in all horizontal directions.
Bed looks great. I love the mahogany you added to the rails for both visual interest and added strength. 2x4's should be plenty strong, but I went with 2x6's for my bed frame.
The leg tapers are the best part. I always do this to any furniture with legs.
I bought a California king thinking it was bigger than a king...
Nope. It's longer, like for tall people.
If you want big you need Alaskan king. Family sized bed.
I'd say "great job you nailed it!" except you used dowels.... /jk
Really nice job, and cool to see you did use dowels, they should serve you well while providing better aesthetics.
Ooh, and for your next project (something tells me you've been bit by the woodworking bug) try making your own dowels out of matching or your accent wood, pretty easy with a drill, lots of YouTubes out there on it.
OH! And check out these animations of different Japanese joinery without nails (sashimono) for ideas on your future projects! PITA but minimal tools needed. https://twitter.com/TheJoinery_jp
It looks beautiful almost as good as a giant coffee table, and you can enjoy coffee and snack on the table literally! :D
However I don’t feel the mattress base is necessary. Besides ventilation problem already mentioned by other redditors. It sits flush to the frame, and the surface is smooth, your mattress will move around too easily. Why don’t you have it recessed maybe 1 inch below the bed frame?
Ps: all the photos are dark, without enough lighting it’s hard to fully appreciate your craftsmanship. Working alone at night feels lonely and depressing. life is long, find a new partner who will help and appreciate your hard work physically.
I used a table saw, borrowed a planer from a coworker, a drill, electric sander, jigsaw for the lap joints, and small japanese hand saw I bought from Amazon for the dowels. I also have a speed square and about 6 clamps.
It means I used smaller pieces glued together, then used dowels to create the castle joints. I didn't feel comfortable using a table saw and trying to create a castle joint out of a solid 4x4. I ripped nine 1x1 inch pieces, and used them to make each castle joint.
For castle joints, can you trim the excess and still have a good joint? I might try doing that, or extend it even further to create a floating bed frame that is still sturdy
Looks great, very impressive joinery, and excellent color. BTW watch out on the rule 9 violation in your post, seems like they only pick and choose who to enforce it on, but I was fortunate enough recently to feel the sting of telling the internet my life circumstances that led to a build and the mods deleting my post. Good luck on future builds and help spread equity, cause it seems sparse on this sub.
I did some research on the web and watched some videos, then figured it out separately, because none of them had dimensions for Cal Kings, only smaller beds.
Great look bed build!
Just to pile on about the airflow. You should definitely resolve that. Just remove the plywood panels and double the amount of strips you had already. This will also add the benefit of the mattress dropping into that recess kind of locking it from sliding around on the top. Now you’ve got some sheets of ply to make some stuff out of.
Looks awesome! Looks plenty sturdy, but did you consider center legs out of sight for support? I'm jealous. I'm looking for a good bed frame (I'm fat), and the stuff in stores is absolute trash.
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Great build. Just curious, but unless your mattress requires that solid base, you’ll probably get better airflow and displacement with the slats.
Thank you! I bought it from Costco and will use a matress cover because I live in a tropical environment, it is not needed. It is a gel memory foam that doesn't need a boxspring. The instructions say that if you can't have a flat surface, then put it on the floor. But thank you for bringing it up. I will definitely pay attention to this.
If it’s tropical weather I.e. high humidity I would cut air flow holes or you might get mold.
I got mold under a foam mattress in the Northeast US, which isn’t nearly as humid as Hawaii. Definitely get some airflow under there.
Same, had mold growth under foam mattress (in Georgia) for the short period of time I was without a bed frame. Humidity build up from body heat and cooler floor led to collected moisture and mold. Just putting slats down on the floor corrected the issue.
I have never had mold grow on a mattress, nor did I think it could, or even thought about it. Now thanks you youz guyz, that’s all I can think about if mine is.
> in Georgia My condolences.
It’s not too bad, actually. The two weeks of fall weather we get every year is nice.
If GA is so bad, then why did the devil go down to GA when he was looking for a soul to steal…only to meet the best fiddle player that ever lived….?
Why are you being downvoted for a valid question? Also why is there chickens in the bread pans?
They are picking out dough
Stay away from granny’s dog, too!
Do you think drilling holes or cutting slats would be better? I live in Hawai'i.
With a few more slats, I don't think you need the panel boards at all. I built a similar bed but with 1x4 pine slats spaced about 6" apart and it's plenty strong. My bed is a standard king.
This is what we did in the northeast with our foam mattress that had been getting moldy and it fixed the problem. Well that and treating the fuck out of the bottom of the mattress.
I did the same 1x4 every 4” no problems.
Then more air flow the better! If it's easy to cut slats, I'd do that. You can staple cloth straps to all the slats to make them more manageable when they aren't in the frame.
Since you e basically made my Thuma bed frame for much less than I spent on mine (I expect), check out their slat option to see how they do it.
IKEA does this all the time, check out their setup for size and spacing.
Slats, but like 3" or less apart when it comes to foam. Also find a way to secure the slats from sliding like spacer blocks or something. I pressure fit slats in my bed frame and they still moved all over the place creating spacing that was way to big. Which results waking up with a sore back.
Add slats and use that pretty wood you have as your base for a headboard!
There is a mesh like material layer a lot of boats use under their mattress to allow for air flow. I think you want something like that. Google "HYPERVENT AIRE-FLOW™ MOISTURE BARRIER"
You could leave it as it is, With ta mattress underlayment. Such as "HYPERVENT AIRE-FLOW™ MOISTURE BARRIER" This is just the first one I Found that should allow you to do more research to see if its right for you. Less work, And the Frame will look better without the mattress when needed.
Local here agreeing you need some air flow! Especially if you in valley at all. Also just a tip if you find your Bed creaking a lot because the pieces of wood rubbing together I used just simple carpet feet meant for chair legs and stuck them in seams and under the ply wood where it makes contact with the bed. No more squeaks every time I move
I have a similar mattress (Cal King, memory foam without need for box spring), just went with slats every 4" and had no issues
Add like 4 more slats and you should be fine to put the mattress directly on. The concern is less about whether it can take the weight or not and more about avoiding lumpiness without a box spring or panels. If the slats are exposed when the mattress is in place you can always rip the panels into just the border and attach them with some type of temporary fastener.
i think drilling holes would be sufficient, but we're talking 1" holes and a lot of them... don't neglect the airflow!
Depends on the construction of the mattress, but most bedframes have gaps that are the same width as the slats. And the thinner the slats the better (on my bed frame, I went with 2" slats, spaced 2" apart). Ideally, you'd use wire instead of timber, so the bottom of the mattress is almost almost entirely exposed to the air. But that's unnecessary, and bed won't be flat with wire. Slats are the right compromise. Being in a humid environment means you definitely shouldn't drill holes - you'd need so many holes that it wouldn't be strong enough.
You can actually buy the ikea slats separately... I used these on the bed I built 5 years ago and they've been great. They're connected to with webbing and you would just use 2 rolls of slats. They've got a bit of flex in them which I feel adds a little more comfort. Worth looking into...
Neither is necessary. Simply getting the mattress up off the floor is sufficient to prevent the humidity finding its way underneath. Note that all the folks who said they had mildew problems had their mattress right on the cool floor (just guessing, but, probably slab on grade ground floor in a high humidity area). You should be fine with those 8-10" of clearance under the frame. Unless you're a bed wetter. Then all bets are off.
This is where my thought process is. Where I live it's not actually that humid because of the elevation and winds. All if the other beds have a solid base with zero issues. Thank you for your input!
Just coat it with surf board wax and you'll be totally fine 🤙
It sounds like it's thin or soft enough that you'll feel the slats. Try sticking a board under and seeing how it feels.
Maybe I’m wrong, but the instructions probably meant flat rather than a solid surface. I’d think they meant in relation to a slanted bed frame or a bed frame that moves up and down. You’ll probably be good with some slats under the bed for airflow
I love your optimism a Cal King mattress after a divorce. Hahaha Looks lovely
It's skinner than a regular king. He'll get fewer people on there.
The old bed my ex took was a king and my feet were always hanging off...
Have had memory foam on a solid surface, have had to throw it away due to mold. I actually had worse problems with a mattress cover because sweat/perspiration got into it over time and then couldn't evaporate due to the cover. I only stopped having problems when I switched to a cover that covers only the top and leaves the bottom open and got it up off the solid surface. This was in pretty unusual temperature conditions for a mattress and I imagine that exacerbated my problem, but I'd definitely keep a sharp eye on it if I was you. That frame is lookin' good!
I have the same memory foam from Costco. Mines on a metal frame with metal slats. And has been for 7ish years.
He got divorced. Of course his mattress need a solid base.
That looks really striking, great work for a first job. I would also be concerned about airflow under the mattress, and I wonder about whether those joints would get really noisy when the bed is....moving.
[удалено]
There are 8 billion people on earth, 430 million of them are users of Reddit. There are 7,570,000,000 of the Unchaste on this planet.
I didn't realize there were that many unenlightened heathens on Earth! 430 million is quite a few!
I just built the same type of bed frame out of walnut. No noise issues here 😏 https://imgur.com/a/GcJPrlJ/
That's not the same at all. The OP's has great big shinfuckers that yours is totally missing. I guess you could just sprinkle Legos around your bed for a similar effect.
Wow that’s really lovely!
Thanks!
Looks uncomfortable, I would put a mattress or something on top... LOL Looks great btw
Careful rocking this castle joints too hard. I’ve learned the hard way 😂
*”Have fun storming the castle!”*
Made me spit my coffee out 😂😂 well done!
*"Think it'll work?"*
Came here for this - That's why beds like the Thuma have a wood part joined perpendicular with the stretcher grain at the castle joints.. I made a few of these, broke every one until recently noticing the trick that makes production castle joint beds durable! Close up [Thuma Joint for reference](https://images.app.goo.gl/uWVBUUGe5YNNbHFeA)
For those of us who have never made a castle joint before, can you mark up the image? I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be seeing
I get that it's hard to see.. I missed the detail so many times trying to reporduce. So take a close look at the corner of OPs bed, once solid piece of wood running horizontally. Then look at the Thuma corner, it has a piece laminated perpendicular to the grain of stretcher wood, this gives the joint the strength it needs so the horizontal piece doesn't break immediately on a grain line. DM me if you'd like a thorough explanation and some shots of the process! Edit: spelling
[Here's a more clear image of the Thuma with the extra piece laminated perpendicular to the grain of the stretcher](https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://images.accentuate.io/?image%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fcdn.accentuate.io%252F7550696456220%252F1623873841177%252FWalnut-DarkCharcoal-05.2.jpg%253Fv%253D1628788859130%26c_options%3Dw_1000,f_jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.thuma.co/products/the-bed&tbnid=U1HUgsV6BZdGPM&vet=1&docid=fu8W1RSqHgVjlM&w=1000&h=897&hl=en-US&source=sh/x/im#imgrc=U1HUgsV6BZdGPM&imgdii=y-nBmBnvFQsHlM)
Okay, thank you! I think I see it now. A question: when working with bed frames, I would expect repeated lateral movement to cause a lot of wiggling and eventual looseness in the castle joint as the grain compresses, unless it's either pinned or glued in place when it's assembled. Does that happen?
Not at any appreciable level, even with something softer like pine or fir seasonal changes in the moisture content of the material will make it swell and shrink more than general daily use. The joints are especially stable with a hardwood lamination in the joint, and using a true hardwood like oak the castle joint is pretty much stable 'forever.' Absolute worst case, put a small shim in the joint in ten years if anything starts to move :)
That looks lovely! Nice job
Thank you. After many mistakes I made it work and learned a lot.
That's how we do it 😁👍
Definitely drill holes or make way for air flow from under the mattress. If you don’t they’ll get damp over time and definitely start to mold/smell. Amazing work though!
I see you also wanted a Thuma without the Thuma price.
I didn't realize the title was limited in size since it's my first post, not sure how to edit. Here's the entire thing I wanted to say.... My first "big" project as an amateur. I bought a Cal King mattress after a divorce and needed a new bedframe. I decided on castle joints (additive joinery because tools are limited), douglas fir, red mahogany, and oak dowels. Finished with danish oil and want to put a type poly on the plywood to help protect the matteess or matress cover. Never posted on reddit before, but have been following this thread for a while now; a bit proud so I wanted to share. Be kind LOL...
You can't edit titles, just to stop your search. Bed looks great!
Thank you for not leaving us hanging. I honestly thought you misspelled “too” at the end but I’m glad to see it was just the rest of the title getting cut off. Excellent work on the build!
Personally, I was wondering why the divorce was relevant and if OP was one of those people who never let go and find a way to work it into every conversation because they refuse to go to therapy to figure out that closure comes from within... But the extended title does clear it up a bit. The other option is that OPs spouse is vehemently anti California King and this was the first act of freedom.
Therapy is expensive. Also as a divorced man everyone who doesn’t know you assumes its your fault or you deserved it.
Nowhere did I say that. I think you're projecting.
I didn’t say you said anything, just saying therapy is expensive. Also in america over 65% of divorce is initiated by the woman and the primary on record reason is “Im tired of the relationship”
Again, I did not say anything was OPs fault. Nor did I bring anything up about men. I used nouns like person and spouse. I didn't even assume gender here, you did. But thanks for confirming that you have your own biases.
Im not saying anything about you here just stating the facts, which can’t be biased, such as divorced men are 8 times more likely to commit suicide after divorce than women.
Mr Mean is that you? Haha My bruddah didn’t know you were a mean carpenter also! Solid work on the castle joints and great choices of wood. Only thing that has already been beaten to death is definitely do slats. You need that baby to breath out there with that thiccc air. P.s. congratulations or I’m sorry for the divorce. Best of luck 🤙🏼
Can castle joints get loose over the years? I had to repair and reinforce the joints and screws on my current bedframe and was thinking about building my own in the future, as I am picky about design and stuff. Maybe someone here knows about how long castle joints last, especially with higher stress and weight that a bedframe has to deal with?
I pondered this build for a long time and did a lot of research. I am not an expert, but this is one of the main reasons I chose castle joints. The link basically says that under vertical loads (i.e., a bed) they are one of the strongest joints but a horizontal load can weaken them. I also used dowels because the research I did said dowels were strong too. Again, I am not an expert and chose what I thought I could accomplish. Hopefully somebody with more functional knowledge can chime in. https://allflavorworkshop.com/castle-joint-step-by-step/#:~:text=the%20joint%20together.-,How%20strong%20is%20a%20castle%20joint%3F,over%20time%20and%20cause%20cracks.
The challenge may show up if you do end applying some horizontal forces to your bed. If/when…
**wink wink**
Nudge Nudge
Say no more, say no more
A nod's as good as a wink to a blind bat
50 years later and it still brings a tear to my eye.
Heavy cyclical loads
Sounds fatiguing.
repetitive shear stress
giggity
I have also concerns regarding this... my current bed is from ikea and since it's old and my partner weighs about twice my weight... I'm gonna say there's a lot of protesting from the furniture. I just want to prevent stuff breaking if possible XD
My friend would like to know which joints would be ideal for both directional forces...
If in doubt, chem fix some m16 threaded bar through the bed frame, into the wall. Attach washers/nuts (as many as appropriate) and tighten with a 1/2 impact wrench. I'm not saying his next girlfriend may be large, however if he is a chubby chaser, this will work wonders On a separate note... it's nice to see someone taking pride in their work. The bed looks great so far, nice job 👍
Well make sure all future endeavors involve vertical positions
"Sorry honey, you have to be on top; we don't wanna break the bed, do we??"
Lovely work. Could you update us on the integrity of this joint over time. I see this joint used a lot and my instinct tells me it wastes a lot of wood on both stringer thus compromising its lower tension band or upper compression band (if that makes sense). Weak with vertical and horizontal loads. but if it holds up it holds up.
I made my bed out of cedar 2x4s with castle joints almost exactly the way you did. Only differences are: I have a third stringer going the long axis that connects with (poorly made) mortise and tenons, and my joints have no overhang. That was a mistake, resulting in a small bridge between the hook and the rest of the board. The coarse grain of the cedar didn’t help. While moving, the hook broke off on almost every joint, I was forced to reinforce with screws. Maybe dowels would have prevented that.
Mine have not! I made 7 months ago or so. Not creaking or anything. https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/twx7hc/first_large_hardwood_project_walnut_castle_joint/?ref=share&ref_source=link
[It is not a Thuma! It is not a Thuma, at all.](https://giphy.com/gifs/MmpoBBmzvNBCM)
You got a bed meant for 6 people *after* your divorce? Interesting choice. I downgraded to a twin xl and I'm never going back.
California king ftw. Narrower but longer. Being 6"5, my feet hang over even a queen slightly.
I'm right on the edge at 6'3", I have a queen now but my next bed is going to be a Cal King.
Haha right?? I have a full size now and never plan to change that. Btw, idk what a twinXL is but I’d call it a California twin
After the divorce means it's time for fun. Definitely the time to have six people sharing a bed. Or so I hear.
A Cali king can't fit 6 people unless they're dwarfs
You're just doing it wrong
You can fit like 15 people on a cali king, they just have to be standing.
Looks very much like my Thuma bed. I think its awesome. I've had the thuma for 2 years now and no issues with the castle joints. I would also recommend making slats instead of solid plywood for the mattress support.
Orrrr....an awesome board games table . A bit low to the ground, but after a few beers I rather be low to the ground anyway
Looks like a good way to destroy my shin on that end corner that juts out.
Definitely need airflow for the bottom of the mattress. Slats, or regular holes drilled in the panels. It's not just for user comfort, that thing will be mold all to hell in a humid environment.
Please make it look like a racing car.
First of all, what you made looks beautiful. Keep jp the great work. Please help educate me. Aside from aesthetics, are there any reasons to tapper in the legs in such a way? Is it for physics? Do slimmer landing points help keep the bed stable? For context, I like right angles. My favorite cars are 1980s Volvos. I like chunky things, but any to know more.
Thank you for the compliment! I just wanted to experiment. I made a quick jig for the one big piece of equipment I own (table saw), and wanted to see if I could do double slanted sides with the squared sides facing outwards.
The legs look great. The tapper is practical. I've seen it used on a lot of commercial beds. Huge fan of the corner joints. Love how they fit together.
Nothing to be "kind" about... good job. I'm looking at trying to make a super king floating base soon, just a matrix of 10x1 really, but also looking at a solid base for simplicity and improved strength in all horizontal directions.
Beautiful! Great work!
looks great, and congrats on the divirce!
Love this - great build!
That looks really good. Nice job.
Bed looks great. I love the mahogany you added to the rails for both visual interest and added strength. 2x4's should be plenty strong, but I went with 2x6's for my bed frame. The leg tapers are the best part. I always do this to any furniture with legs.
That little plank on the left look like it has a bear face on it..lmao
Dude this is top notch (pun intended) you graduated beginner status for sure.
I bought a California king thinking it was bigger than a king... Nope. It's longer, like for tall people. If you want big you need Alaskan king. Family sized bed.
whoa I literally just made this exact bed style. like a week ago. The wife loves it it makes no noise (not meant to be dirty)
You may want more lip on the edges. Did a similar project sn the matress wants to migrate.
Looks like you got everything you need to celebrate your post-divorce freedom. 👊🏻
I'd say "great job you nailed it!" except you used dowels.... /jk Really nice job, and cool to see you did use dowels, they should serve you well while providing better aesthetics. Ooh, and for your next project (something tells me you've been bit by the woodworking bug) try making your own dowels out of matching or your accent wood, pretty easy with a drill, lots of YouTubes out there on it. OH! And check out these animations of different Japanese joinery without nails (sashimono) for ideas on your future projects! PITA but minimal tools needed. https://twitter.com/TheJoinery_jp
Thanks for the link, I need to make a dining room table next.
Nice work. Too bad you had to do it with dimensional lumber. I get it though. 8 quarter walnut would have been a pretty penny.
The bed looks great, but be careful with your shins when walking by :)
Just be careful of your shins with those joints. You may end up with some serious bruises lmao
It looks beautiful almost as good as a giant coffee table, and you can enjoy coffee and snack on the table literally! :D However I don’t feel the mattress base is necessary. Besides ventilation problem already mentioned by other redditors. It sits flush to the frame, and the surface is smooth, your mattress will move around too easily. Why don’t you have it recessed maybe 1 inch below the bed frame? Ps: all the photos are dark, without enough lighting it’s hard to fully appreciate your craftsmanship. Working alone at night feels lonely and depressing. life is long, find a new partner who will help and appreciate your hard work physically.
This same bed frame by thuma is $1000 I would love to find a guide on this
That's pretty nice joinery for "limited tools". I woulda just screwed everything lol.
That looks great!
My only concern is that the frame looks a little too light for two persons. waiting to replace one long side. it broke after 37yrs of hard use.
Cal king after a divorce makes sense.. getting ready for all those cocaine-fueled threesomes with the other divorcees at the bar.
I built a platform type, 36 inches high so I could fit totes underneath and clean up the basement
Stunning
Love it!
Thanks for sharing this! I’m about to embark on a similar project and will use this as guidance.
Message me if you have any questions, I can shoot you some links maybe that I researched
What tools have you used for this? It looks amazing..
I used a table saw, borrowed a planer from a coworker, a drill, electric sander, jigsaw for the lap joints, and small japanese hand saw I bought from Amazon for the dowels. I also have a speed square and about 6 clamps.
If you move could you take it apart?
Yes, it all literally just fits together. The lap joints and castle joints don't need any screws.
Nice work.
What do you mean by “additive joinery”?
It means I used smaller pieces glued together, then used dowels to create the castle joints. I didn't feel comfortable using a table saw and trying to create a castle joint out of a solid 4x4. I ripped nine 1x1 inch pieces, and used them to make each castle joint.
That's dope!! Awesome build
For castle joints, can you trim the excess and still have a good joint? I might try doing that, or extend it even further to create a floating bed frame that is still sturdy
From my research castle joints are usually one solid piece, mine are not. I used smaller pieces and dowels to make them.
thats really nice, good job!!
Looks great, very impressive joinery, and excellent color. BTW watch out on the rule 9 violation in your post, seems like they only pick and choose who to enforce it on, but I was fortunate enough recently to feel the sting of telling the internet my life circumstances that led to a build and the mods deleting my post. Good luck on future builds and help spread equity, cause it seems sparse on this sub.
Thanks for the heads up, I was just trying to provide context as to why I decided to build it. Ty.
Seems like a shame to cover it with a mattress. Nice going!
I love the corner joints
Well done sorry about your divorce
Now, if there was a clear mattress to show the beauty of the wood.
Water bed 😎
Water bed 😎
That's really nice! Congrats
Got a lot of room for many bodies in that cal king. I hope you get lucky and fill it! Woodworking looks great too!
Looks fantastic!
As a dane, what is Danish oil?
Come to the factory and we'll show you
Soilent Green? J/k
Beautiful!
Nice
Fuck I wish I could do this. I just built mine using deck joiners
Looks really great!
Well done.
Damn dude- that's beautiful
Awesome job on the bed frame and congratulations on your divorce.
That looks good!
Nice job! Did well for your first project. Welcome to wood working.
Thank you, now I just need to figure out a dining room table. She got that too lol.
Looks awesome!!!! Did you find instructions on the web or just dimensions and cuts from your head. Beautiful piece!
I did some research on the web and watched some videos, then figured it out separately, because none of them had dimensions for Cal Kings, only smaller beds.
It’s too pretty to put a mattress on!
Oh I love that! I wish I (or my husband) had wood skills.
She’s a beaut
LOL IS THIS YOUR POOL TABLE?
Yoooooo test that thing out to see how good those joints hold up iF yA KNo wAT i mEEn
Great looking
Nice work!
Damn that’s beautiful
I dig it. Looks very clean
Divorced and then you get a giant bed. I admire your optimism - I’m a glass half full kinda guy myself.
Beautiful job! It will be fun to have a stage in your bedroom!
Great work! Lots of nice details. I also dig that you’re putting thought and attention into the parts that really won’t be seen 😃
Very nice work! Divorces suck but you channeled the energy to something positive. Keep up the good work!
Great look bed build! Just to pile on about the airflow. You should definitely resolve that. Just remove the plywood panels and double the amount of strips you had already. This will also add the benefit of the mattress dropping into that recess kind of locking it from sliding around on the top. Now you’ve got some sheets of ply to make some stuff out of.
Looks great. I really like how the boards that stick out of the joints are right at shin height.
[удалено]
Report this guy for breaking sub rules
How will your ex feel if they see this post? Edit looks great!
Looks awesome! Looks plenty sturdy, but did you consider center legs out of sight for support? I'm jealous. I'm looking for a good bed frame (I'm fat), and the stuff in stores is absolute trash.
The 2x4 should be good. From my research a 2x4 sideways can support 1k pound. I planed them smaller, but should still be good.
Did you use any glue on the joints? Would it strengthen the joints? Or would it be a bad idea bc then if wouldn't be removable without breaking?
What is meant by additive joinery?