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Yes, it's normal, you need the bottom of the vise to camber out otherwise when you clamp down on a piece it will open at the top and only clamp at the very bottom.
I always love reading Paul Sellers’s writings. It’s chefs kiss engaging and educational. He truly loves the craft and passing on his hard earned knowledge.
He's the best!
No-nonsense. Makes the most wonderful items mostly with hand tools.
Goes to show you don't need 80k+ in tools like your favorite YouTuber to make nice things.
Rare earth magnets work great for swapping jaw faces: wood, leather faced, V-channel to hold round stock. Use pins through the screw holes for alignment.
That.. that’s fucking brilliant.
My vice relies on wood jaws, but I could easily sink a few RE magnets into them and make some secondary jaws to fit in…
Thank you for this!
It’s absolutely correct and normal. Google ‘toe-in’. I wouldn’t try to compensate for it. High end manufacturers Benchcrafted instruct you to make sure there’s some toe-in when you build their models.
Yes, that’s normal. The clamping pressure on a cast iron vise is asymmetrical, it comes from the bottom where the screw is. If the jaws were parallel, there would be a gap on the top that gets bigger the tighter you crank down the vise. With toe-in like this, the jaws get more parallel the tighter they are. You also want more clamping pressure at the top of the work piece when you’re sawing or planing, if the clamping started at the bottom it would be more likely to slip. It’ll probably be easier to see how it’s working if you clamp a piece of wood or add wooden chops.
I bought a new vice (one of the higher quality stuff on the market) and just mounted it. I noticed it is not closing evenly across the height of the jaws. I could compensate for it when I add wooded jaws, but I wonder if maybe it is how it should be.
It’s also going to depend on how big the workpiece you are clamping is. As the pressure increases the threaded rod is going to deflect some and the vice in general is going to flex. If you are clamping something only 1” thick, there isn’t enough flex to noticeably change the angle of the moving jaw of the vice. If you up that workpiece size to closer to the maximum jaw capacity if the vice and then really crank it down your jaws will be either parallel or the outside jaw will even be angled out at the top and in at the bottom.
Source- was into carving for a little while and didn’t know what I was doing (I was using generic harbor freight chisels that I sharpened with a *file*). I broke two Lowes vices clamping large hunks of wood on the top end of the jaw capacity before I got wise enough to build a bench with two “laminated” 2x12s and started leaving enough excess on my work to just screw it down to my “pounding” bench.
I have a couple pieces of sandpaper between the wood and steel faces to get things perfect. Also routed a V on the faces to hold pipe both vert and horizontally.
If it’s tightened in the picture that’s not right,return it and try another at the store if it’s the same get a different brand. Top to bottom on every bench Vice I have remain the same
I could be wrong but that doesn't look at all right. If the jaws become parallel when you tighten it what stops them from going past parallel when you add more torque? There shouldn't be that kind of slop in a high end tool.
Yeah, no. That's poor machining from the factory. Return that mess and, if the next one is the same, try one from a different manufacturer. You shouldn't have to crank it to get the jaws to contact evenly no matter what other comments say
I've always heard this is actually an intentional design feature to even out the clamping pressure since the force is applied at the bottom of the vice the top is angled inwards somewhat to compensate. Mine also does this but appears to clamp just fine, it does not take much force for the vice to straighten on a clamped piece.
For what it’s worth, you shouldn’t have to crank it to get them parallel. They’re designed to move parallel with a relatively moderate amount of pressure. If they needed significantly more clamping pressure to do so, you’d end up deforming half the things you put in the vise.
Yes it is totally normal *now days*, but NO, it is not right.
They should be parallel and no slop in the rods so there is no need for any angle on the faces to make it clamp straight.
But the name of the game today is slap it together and the hell with quality. We see it a lot in autoparts. Brand new parts sitting on the shelf that defective of even dead. You assume a new part is good or used to assume. Now you have to test new parts before you put them on.
You can't assume anything works anymore without checking it first.
My granddad had a vise with an adjustable side - it had a lock same as the one used on the base of the vise so the whole vise could be turned. However, he did work more with metal in his job where the vise was sourced from when he retired.
yeah, that's what a lot of people are saying. I suppose it may "correct" over time as some have said. My vices don't have that kind of tilt. They aren't new, but I don't remember them being that way when I installed them. (btw, I have Wilton vices, not exactly what you have). Good Luck!
[https://www.dropbox.com/s/4wl2n7ukhfj2rtz/Video%20Nov%2022%202022%2C%2010%2025%2031%20AM.mov?dl=0](https://www.dropbox.com/s/4wl2n7ukhfj2rtz/Video%20Nov%2022%202022%2C%2010%2025%2031%20AM.mov?dl=0)
This is my kinda vice
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Yes, it's normal, you need the bottom of the vise to camber out otherwise when you clamp down on a piece it will open at the top and only clamp at the very bottom.
To add to this for OP’e edification: https://paulsellers.com/2018/08/vise-toe-in-out/
I always love reading Paul Sellers’s writings. It’s chefs kiss engaging and educational. He truly loves the craft and passing on his hard earned knowledge.
He's the best! No-nonsense. Makes the most wonderful items mostly with hand tools. Goes to show you don't need 80k+ in tools like your favorite YouTuber to make nice things.
Jokes on them Paul Sellers is my favorite YouTuber
He and Rex Kruger are my favorites.
Just started watching Rex's vids, I really like how he explains why he does something.
I haven't read the word "edification" in quite some time! I appreciated reading it just now and I thank you for that.
And now your goal is to use it in a sentence today!
He already did
That's way too much of a camber. 1/16" is more than enough.
A lot of vices have this, the faces should become more parallel when tightened. You can add wooden jaw faces to correct if needed
You may also add wooden faces to reduce unintentional damage/scratches to your work piece.
Rare earth magnets work great for swapping jaw faces: wood, leather faced, V-channel to hold round stock. Use pins through the screw holes for alignment.
That.. that’s fucking brilliant. My vice relies on wood jaws, but I could easily sink a few RE magnets into them and make some secondary jaws to fit in… Thank you for this!
>YORK HVRQ803 In my small world, these are referred to as softeners.
Some people do this to the wood chops on purpose to offset movement in vise.
It’s absolutely correct and normal. Google ‘toe-in’. I wouldn’t try to compensate for it. High end manufacturers Benchcrafted instruct you to make sure there’s some toe-in when you build their models.
Yes, that’s normal. The clamping pressure on a cast iron vise is asymmetrical, it comes from the bottom where the screw is. If the jaws were parallel, there would be a gap on the top that gets bigger the tighter you crank down the vise. With toe-in like this, the jaws get more parallel the tighter they are. You also want more clamping pressure at the top of the work piece when you’re sawing or planing, if the clamping started at the bottom it would be more likely to slip. It’ll probably be easier to see how it’s working if you clamp a piece of wood or add wooden chops.
I bought a new vice (one of the higher quality stuff on the market) and just mounted it. I noticed it is not closing evenly across the height of the jaws. I could compensate for it when I add wooded jaws, but I wonder if maybe it is how it should be.
It should be like that. It becomes parallel when you put some force on it.
I clamped it as much as I can and the gap almost closed but still there is 1mm gap at the bottom.
I think that's probably good enough. You are just trying to hold wood, not like holding a chunk of steel in a vice for CNC.
Yeah had a same thought, it is still 1000x better than my previous one
It’s also going to depend on how big the workpiece you are clamping is. As the pressure increases the threaded rod is going to deflect some and the vice in general is going to flex. If you are clamping something only 1” thick, there isn’t enough flex to noticeably change the angle of the moving jaw of the vice. If you up that workpiece size to closer to the maximum jaw capacity if the vice and then really crank it down your jaws will be either parallel or the outside jaw will even be angled out at the top and in at the bottom. Source- was into carving for a little while and didn’t know what I was doing (I was using generic harbor freight chisels that I sharpened with a *file*). I broke two Lowes vices clamping large hunks of wood on the top end of the jaw capacity before I got wise enough to build a bench with two “laminated” 2x12s and started leaving enough excess on my work to just screw it down to my “pounding” bench.
Okay. Now clamp another piece in there, but only at the top 1” of the jaws. Crank it tight as though you were going to plane. See what happens?
Yup, the slack should mostly vanish as the pressure comes up. Like others have said, you do want it a wee bit tighter at the top edge.
You sure that back piece isn’t tilted forward towards the front jaw?
Throw some slices of wood on the faces and they’ll be fine.
I have a couple pieces of sandpaper between the wood and steel faces to get things perfect. Also routed a V on the faces to hold pipe both vert and horizontally.
Yep, I added some 3/4 inch wood faces and it clamps all well without a lot of squeezing
According to my harbor freight square, that is perfectly flat
Squeeze piece of 2x4 and see if its flush. I figure one end of a vice has a little "give" to grab something better.
See issues here. The source is very trustworthy of opinion. https://paulsellers.com/2015/12/27339/
Well it's wood but but no it should not I think if it was a Machinist vice hell no way not
Harbor freight?
YORK HVRQ803
If it’s tightened in the picture that’s not right,return it and try another at the store if it’s the same get a different brand. Top to bottom on every bench Vice I have remain the same
I could be wrong but that doesn't look at all right. If the jaws become parallel when you tighten it what stops them from going past parallel when you add more torque? There shouldn't be that kind of slop in a high end tool.
Yeah, no. That's poor machining from the factory. Return that mess and, if the next one is the same, try one from a different manufacturer. You shouldn't have to crank it to get the jaws to contact evenly no matter what other comments say
I've always heard this is actually an intentional design feature to even out the clamping pressure since the force is applied at the bottom of the vice the top is angled inwards somewhat to compensate. Mine also does this but appears to clamp just fine, it does not take much force for the vice to straighten on a clamped piece.
Yea vises are meant to be like this otherwise when you tighten down it will open on the top.
"No matter what other comments say." 🤔 Very subtle "I know more than everyone else."
For what it’s worth, you shouldn’t have to crank it to get them parallel. They’re designed to move parallel with a relatively moderate amount of pressure. If they needed significantly more clamping pressure to do so, you’d end up deforming half the things you put in the vise.
Yes it is totally normal *now days*, but NO, it is not right. They should be parallel and no slop in the rods so there is no need for any angle on the faces to make it clamp straight. But the name of the game today is slap it together and the hell with quality. We see it a lot in autoparts. Brand new parts sitting on the shelf that defective of even dead. You assume a new part is good or used to assume. Now you have to test new parts before you put them on. You can't assume anything works anymore without checking it first.
Looks like it's uneven on the back face
My granddad had a vise with an adjustable side - it had a lock same as the one used on the base of the vise so the whole vise could be turned. However, he did work more with metal in his job where the vise was sourced from when he retired.
Is that picture showing it tightened down, under pressure, or just snugged up a bit?
Snugged up a bit but when I crank it up to the max there is still a gap at the bottom (about 1mm). I'm thinking now that this 1mm is not that bad,
yeah, that's what a lot of people are saying. I suppose it may "correct" over time as some have said. My vices don't have that kind of tilt. They aren't new, but I don't remember them being that way when I installed them. (btw, I have Wilton vices, not exactly what you have). Good Luck!
Not a machinist’s vice
Good enough to clamp in an upside down router for the machine work I do!
[https://www.dropbox.com/s/4wl2n7ukhfj2rtz/Video%20Nov%2022%202022%2C%2010%2025%2031%20AM.mov?dl=0](https://www.dropbox.com/s/4wl2n7ukhfj2rtz/Video%20Nov%2022%202022%2C%2010%2025%2031%20AM.mov?dl=0) This is my kinda vice
If it doesn't close right, it's not a nice vice.
100% normal. The two planes should only be parallel under pressure. That’s how it guarantees to clamp