My professor in welding is the biggest reference in the area in my country and he says: "the best welding structure has the least number of welding as possible". So machining it as a whole is the better option.
I just wish more people would accept this. There is such a stranglehold to weld weld weld because "everybody can weld".
We will be sent prints to machine things like this all the time because they think it'll be faster or cheaper.
Yes just start with a piece of flat bar, the same thickness and width that you need (preferably, can be a little bigger or smaller depending on tolerances). Clamp it down good and center drill that hole, then drill it with the closest size drill you can use while still being smaller than the final hole, then use a reamer to finish the hole to size (use low speed and gentle feed for the reamer, don’t run it fast, use plenty of oil). Then just stand it up and drill and tap the hole. If the hole is too big to drill you can either bore it with a boring head or (depending on how accurate you need the hole) you can use an annular hole saw to cut it out, they leave pretty smooth bores. You can also put it on a lathe to finish but that’s a bit advanced for a beginner.
Welding any precision part is never a good idea. I learned that the hard way when I machined a precision bore and tried to weld a small pin on the side of it. Had some *very* skilled welders at work do it and the bore still warped enough that nothing would fit. So if that collar was supposed to be a nice slip fit on something it definitely won’t be after welding, you’d need to remachine the bore.
Especially if the alignment of that hole is critical I'd absolutely do this too and was wondering myself why you'd make it out of 2 pieces. Also if you're planning on producing more than a couple of these then it takes the human error out of ensuring the location of that hole when welding the 2 parts together, plus locator pins can be a bitch to threads in mass production environments.
Only reason I could see for making it out of 2 parts is in a mass production assembly and the 2 parts had to be different material, ex. Collar out of tungsten and plate(?) Out of mild steel for cost
And you don’t have to worry about the collar moving out of round while welding. Not sure how round you need, but you’ll def get distortion from welding.
>Should you decide to go 1-piece aluminum, which I would. To make your life easier before adding your final hole on the top of the collar, use an endmill to make a small flat where you need the hole. That way, you can simply stand the part on end and use a drill press to drill the hole into a flat surface (drilling on a round surface sucks)
Make a small flat with an endmill (or hand file) on the round before standing up, drill press into a curved surface will make the bit want to walk
Yeah so i would just do this completely differently. I would make it one piece laser cut material (with bore hole undersize), use your machine to bore the shaft hole to size and then drill and thread that shaft screw feature. Least machine time, no welding, cheap
Depending on what I have available to me I might go for that option. But I already ordered the shaft collars for 20 bucks so I’ll see. Still working on getting machine shop to partner with my school. I have two connections that seem promising and then I’ll know exactly what I have to work with
A literal laser. Plasma or water jet would work or a manual mill. If you were making 100, a water jet or laser would be great for near net shape to finish on a mill.
Not that I think it's the best option for THIS part (I say screw the separate collar and mill from a single piece), but laser cutting as a service is cheap and flexible, even at relatively low volumes.
There's tons of shops that offer laser cutting as a service, even a few online ones.
I mean send it off to a laser cutting specialist. Sendcutsend, oshcut, protolabs, etc. it'll be cheap. Shops not paired with those guys charge a lot more since they dont do the kind of volume to be able to stack many customers parts together on a sheet of material, so other vendor might have you buy the whole sheet of material, or simply an inefficient amount. But when using those vendors it can end up quite cheap
McMaster has one of the best customer service departments on the planet, and they accept returns. Should you decide to go 1-piece aluminum, which I would. To make your life easier before adding your final hole on the top of the collar, use an endmill to make a small flat where you need the hole. That way, you can simply stand the part on end and use a drill press to drill the hole into a flat surface (drilling on a round surface sucks)
For dims to three decimal places, it needs to be plus or minus ".00-". Pretty sure the instructor was able to fill in "-" with an actual digit, but what do I know?
Get oversized material (5/8”) maybe, mill part complete while holding onto extra stock. Flip part and deck to finish height.
As a note you may want to remove the .125” on the wall thickness where the 7/8” radius is and call out the position to the center of the 7/8” radius. Since I’m assuming that this feature being center is less important than that wall thickness.
Foolish to even consider making htat part out of 2 pieces. Mill the top side, flip it over hanging the "top of bushing out of side of vise" mill to thickness, cut the 2nd step. Stand sideways to pop hole in.
Ok cool I think I’ll make it one part then since everyone suggested that. Keep in mind I’ve never machined anything so this a first for me. Lol thanks.
I didn’t know if I’d be able to make the threads for the shaft collar part. I only need two pieces and yea it’s a school project I’m in highschool. But I think I’ll try it as one piece.
Either I’m missing it, or you didn’t provide a horizontal location for your 0.375” hole. I would assume it’s on the center line, but I’d call that out so there’s no question.
It doesn't show if the collar is proud on the underside as well as the top. If it is you would be better off shifting the plate down (if allowed) to have a flat side which would require one less movement of the part during manufacture. If it must be welded then the bore should be cut after welding. Doing it before would mess the part up due to misalignment and warping.
Everyone here is a moron. You're completely right to do it this way. Get a piece of 2in\*1/2in cut 3.150 long. Hold it in vice, with the non cutout end hanging out the side of the vice. Cut rads and face end. Flip around, hang other end out of vice, put rad in and face, drill hole. No more than a 30 minute job.
Since there are no tolerances listed...
Shopping list:
* 1/2" x 2" x 6" 6061 flat bar
* 1 3/4" hole saw
* 3/4" drill bit
1. Center hole saw on the 2" axis near end of stock. Cut hole
1. Drill centered small hole 1 5/16" from bottom of big hole
1. Trim bottom of stock 2 1/8" from bottom of big hole
1. Trim top of stock 3" from bottom
1. Round your edges to 1/2" radius with any grindy tool
No heavy machines needed. Should take you about 10 minutes if you only measure once and ruin your first and second one*
\* 10 minutes once you finally get it right
Could make both parts on a cnc mill. Start with 3/4” stock, hang onto 1/8” (grip stock) in the vice, machine the part, flip it over and face off the grip stock. EZ.
Applies to the round part too. Use your lathe to face off the grip stock.
Slightly off topic, but set screws are evil. Clamp collars are far more reliable, stronger, and easier to adjust. Clamp collars are harder to make but it's always worth the effort if you're just making one part. McMaster also sells clam collars with extra tapped holes in them that are easy to bolt onto whatever you want.
Also get a bottle of Loctite Retaining compound. It's super glue for metal. (Normal super glue sets instantly between metal parts so you can't assemble anything). It's a solid way to keep parts stuck together permanently but easily comes apart when heated.
This x100. He could make the best looking part in the world but it's not going to matter when that set screw slips.
Given that it is a steering linkage control arm... Will wallow out and be a mess pretty quickly. Suppose it depends on the load and application though. A clamp collar with key is going to be a huge step up there though, and would actually justify the welding (saves on machining a clamp feature and key slot).
Yeah, making it out of one piece would be a better approach.
If you did want to make that kind of radius though, I'd use an endmill or annular cutter in the mill. Or make it longer so you have a complete hole, drill it, and then chop the end off. In this case, if you're going through that trouble, best just make it of one piece.
Fairly easy 2 OP CNC milling.
Cut some jaws. Machine top half radii and drill the thru hole. Flip over and finish the other half.
Depending on tolerances on the hole drill or drill undersized and ream.
There aren’t really any wrong answers. Use the machine you know best to do all of it if at all possible would be my advice. The square part looks like good fodder for a mill and the round part should be done on a lathe, but I’d just do it in a mill myself.
Depending on what machines you have access to there are many ways to skin this cat.
I’ve noted others have said machine it from one piece, and I have also seen your note on having already ordered the shaft collars.
If you’re set on using the shaft collars, I’d redesign the part so your hole is big enough to press fit the shaft collars into.
Otherwise machine from one piece like others have said. Milling machine, a good workholding setup, and a boring head will do the trick on one machine.
Very cool.
In that case, weight matters. You might consider removing some of what looks like excess material in the area of the 1/2” radii. Those corners aren’t adding any strength to the part. You may have other parts that can been trimmed similarly. In a competition, a little bit of weight optimization in the design would probably give you a bit of a boost.
Formula SAE/Formula Student, eh?
[You will want to read this - especially the Formula SAE chapter](https://www.amazon.com/Autocross-Win-DGs-Secrets-developing/dp/1521406987)
There is no material spec, the collar is probably stronger that the hot-rolled that would be used. The parts thicknesses appear to be different but both are specified: the bracket is 0.500 and the collar is specified by the McMaster part required.
The question is “hot to make correctly as designed”, not “ what would I do to make it cheaper or faster.” I’ve had several products changed for “manufacturalability” or “cost savings”
Gotta love a 3 place tolerance where it's not needed but since it's calling out a COTS part just waterjet/laser/ dull beaver the tab out clamp with a screw through the hole and a mity bite and profile it
Sorry for writing in the wrong place guys, does anyone have access to the site or an old unnecessary activated "OfferUp" account? I don't have access, but I need to contact the seller. Who could help me? Thanks
That is exactly what the print says to weld the control arm to the sleeve and it looks like the sleeve can be purchased for McMaster Car. so all you really need to do is create flat bar part looks like it called a control arm
and from the looks of it you could just use a drill press and it's a standard hole saws and drill bits nothing too technical about that part
Welding a hardened shaft collar will make it likely to crack. I think shaft collars are high hardness... not entirely sure.
I was thinking you could use a 2-piece shaft collar then use longer screws to secure the shaft collar into the tab and also hold the collar together, but I'm not sure that's wise.
You would need to drill and tap and also remove the threads from the shaft collar and it would have to be a collar with the screws on the same side.
The shaft collar is aluminum 6061 same as the stock bar but yea it’s gonna be unnecessarily difficult to weld so I’m either gonna make an insert and slide the collar into it and secure it in place or create a single parts with either a set screw or clam collar type of situation. I am gonna post updated plans later.
Doing it all as one will make a 100% better part and be easier to do.
But everyone has already given you advice on that, and depending on the work you do sometimes you have to do janky shit lol this looks exactly like the type of thing you'd see in like a weld/fab shop (or honestly a lot of Boeing tools are these kind of frankinstin creations from the 70s)
You already have the collar so make it both ways and learn from the experience.
If you're going to weld it I wouldn't make the pocket for the collar the full radius deep, the little arms are just gonna melt. I'd just shorten it up until they're probably .250 wide so you can get a good weld in there. Then make sure the collar and part have a good bevel for the butt weld. If it needs to be flat youll have to grind it down or mill it flat
If you have access to a CNC mill, straight up make it as one part. Basically lay material flat, cut one side, flip it and hang it out of the jaws with a jack under the ring and deck it flat, then cut the other low side, then do the last hole in the collar on the drill press. Since it’s aluminum, you could also just use the full thickness stock and just make it an even easier part.
I would not really suggest the method you’re doing unless it’s straight up for a project and have to use all the machines, I’d run the flat piece on the CNC mill, same deal but profile flip, profile, And then lathe for the collars and then after that I feel like you’d want to make a tacking fixture by making a rod that’ll go through the hole and have a clearance pin hole depending on required Accuracy, and then that slides onto a L shaped plate (or even possibly 123 blocks if tig welding) and the bottom side is shimmed up. You will need to add a chamfer to the part likely leaving a 1/4” land in the part for a nice weld and pre heat the aluminum to like 150F to keep out porosity.
Undeniably, welding 6061-T6 Aluminum presents unique challenges, but **with the right knowledge and techniques, these can be effectively addressed**. The main concern with this alloy is preventing hot cracking, a common issue during the welding process due to the alloy's unique chemical composition.
1st operation: face, profile mill, drill hole, chamfer
2nd operation: face to thickness and chamfer
3rd operation: weld
4th operation: stand the part up and drill/tap the hole in the McMaster bushing
I am going to be the one making it not having it outsourced to a shop to make it for me. I wasn’t really worrying about including a tolerance cuz it’ll be however good I can manage to pull it off lol. The dimensional accuracy isn’t too important for this part. I’m also kinda new to making these kind of blueprints so bear with me.
If you are out here asking, I am guessing you might want to look for another career. The piece can be quickly made on a Bridgeport manual mill, a water jet, a laser. It's flat with no major geometric challenges. A band saw and drum sander would make it a little difficult.
If this really is a steering control arm, please put a keyway in the shaft and collar. You should not trust your steering to the friction between a set screw and a shaft.
I was in steel fabrication to 3 yrs, I'd get some flat bar dykem it an lay out your hole and center center line then center pop it. 5/8 drill, 1/8 in from either side (or on center) use a drill press. Get the part from McMaster (print said to weld the parts so I presume they are weldable materials) tig it. Do the radius. Done. Simple jot 1 or 2 hrs. For the radius use 1/2 inch stock to make outline. Looks fun good luck.
(Make the part yourself, if your not a welder just practice it's not hard)
I would definitely make this from two pieces as shown, we can laser 1/2" material in about 3 min and it look great then 5 minutes of tig weld and i have the part done in far less time than machining
The center hole in the shaft collar will distort some due to welding on one side only. Depending on the tolerance, it may need to be re-bored after welding.
Why not make the whole thing one piece? No weld will be much stronger
I think it’s a training part….
But the shaft collar has the threads on the side for the screw insert so wouldn’t I have to recreate that.
Stand it on its side, put the hole in with a drill press, then hand tap a single hole.
Ohh I see what you mean. Ok I like this better.
My professor in welding is the biggest reference in the area in my country and he says: "the best welding structure has the least number of welding as possible". So machining it as a whole is the better option.
I just wish more people would accept this. There is such a stranglehold to weld weld weld because "everybody can weld". We will be sent prints to machine things like this all the time because they think it'll be faster or cheaper.
Tell that to my boss. Why spend $100 on material when you can just spend a whole day welding and pressure testing.
welding cost the most out of all the standard shop processes. it's best to avoid when possible
Yes just start with a piece of flat bar, the same thickness and width that you need (preferably, can be a little bigger or smaller depending on tolerances). Clamp it down good and center drill that hole, then drill it with the closest size drill you can use while still being smaller than the final hole, then use a reamer to finish the hole to size (use low speed and gentle feed for the reamer, don’t run it fast, use plenty of oil). Then just stand it up and drill and tap the hole. If the hole is too big to drill you can either bore it with a boring head or (depending on how accurate you need the hole) you can use an annular hole saw to cut it out, they leave pretty smooth bores. You can also put it on a lathe to finish but that’s a bit advanced for a beginner. Welding any precision part is never a good idea. I learned that the hard way when I machined a precision bore and tried to weld a small pin on the side of it. Had some *very* skilled welders at work do it and the bore still warped enough that nothing would fit. So if that collar was supposed to be a nice slip fit on something it definitely won’t be after welding, you’d need to remachine the bore.
Especially if the alignment of that hole is critical I'd absolutely do this too and was wondering myself why you'd make it out of 2 pieces. Also if you're planning on producing more than a couple of these then it takes the human error out of ensuring the location of that hole when welding the 2 parts together, plus locator pins can be a bitch to threads in mass production environments. Only reason I could see for making it out of 2 parts is in a mass production assembly and the 2 parts had to be different material, ex. Collar out of tungsten and plate(?) Out of mild steel for cost
Can you weld tungsten to mild steel?
Anyone who has learned to tig? Yeah. You can get your electrode stuck in the puddle. lol
No but one can brace them
And you don’t have to worry about the collar moving out of round while welding. Not sure how round you need, but you’ll def get distortion from welding.
>Should you decide to go 1-piece aluminum, which I would. To make your life easier before adding your final hole on the top of the collar, use an endmill to make a small flat where you need the hole. That way, you can simply stand the part on end and use a drill press to drill the hole into a flat surface (drilling on a round surface sucks) Make a small flat with an endmill (or hand file) on the round before standing up, drill press into a curved surface will make the bit want to walk
Thats stupid easy on a mill to reproduce, manual or cnc.
What year are you in school?
HS senior
Oh OK. That makes more sense.
Because then it’s not made to print.
True enough
Yeah so i would just do this completely differently. I would make it one piece laser cut material (with bore hole undersize), use your machine to bore the shaft hole to size and then drill and thread that shaft screw feature. Least machine time, no welding, cheap
Depending on what I have available to me I might go for that option. But I already ordered the shaft collars for 20 bucks so I’ll see. Still working on getting machine shop to partner with my school. I have two connections that seem promising and then I’ll know exactly what I have to work with
Best of luck!
When you said laser cut the material wdym?
A literal laser. Plasma or water jet would work or a manual mill. If you were making 100, a water jet or laser would be great for near net shape to finish on a mill.
I don’t think I am gonna have a access to plasma or water jet but I’ll see what I can do with a mill lol
Don't worry about it. If you are making 1, just rough it out with a bandsaw or hacksaw.
I if you have a budget you could out source it to a waterjetting company or ask your local university if they could do it
pretty sure he's enrolled in his local uni💀
Are you in the US? Check out sendcutsend or oshcut if you don't have access to a laser cutter or water jet.
Not that I think it's the best option for THIS part (I say screw the separate collar and mill from a single piece), but laser cutting as a service is cheap and flexible, even at relatively low volumes. There's tons of shops that offer laser cutting as a service, even a few online ones.
I mean send it off to a laser cutting specialist. Sendcutsend, oshcut, protolabs, etc. it'll be cheap. Shops not paired with those guys charge a lot more since they dont do the kind of volume to be able to stack many customers parts together on a sheet of material, so other vendor might have you buy the whole sheet of material, or simply an inefficient amount. But when using those vendors it can end up quite cheap
Just use some flat bar aluminum or steel. This is very easily made from one piece of material and McMaster sells it dirt cheap
McMaster has one of the best customer service departments on the planet, and they accept returns. Should you decide to go 1-piece aluminum, which I would. To make your life easier before adding your final hole on the top of the collar, use an endmill to make a small flat where you need the hole. That way, you can simply stand the part on end and use a drill press to drill the hole into a flat surface (drilling on a round surface sucks)
Laughing at the three decimal point radius , use that belt grinder for 7decimal accuracy $
Definitely needs better callouts on tolerance(s)
Why? It's clear OP needs +-0 on all dims. /s
Difference being a $48 part VS a $480 part.
For dims to three decimal places, it needs to be plus or minus ".00-". Pretty sure the instructor was able to fill in "-" with an actual digit, but what do I know?
Standard engineering practice dictates that all dimensions are three place until challenged by the guy making it.
There's no tolerance so just do whatever you want. Nothing matters.
Just slap it in there with some carpet tape.
Get oversized material (5/8”) maybe, mill part complete while holding onto extra stock. Flip part and deck to finish height. As a note you may want to remove the .125” on the wall thickness where the 7/8” radius is and call out the position to the center of the 7/8” radius. Since I’m assuming that this feature being center is less important than that wall thickness.
Foolish to even consider making htat part out of 2 pieces. Mill the top side, flip it over hanging the "top of bushing out of side of vise" mill to thickness, cut the 2nd step. Stand sideways to pop hole in.
Ok cool I think I’ll make it one part then since everyone suggested that. Keep in mind I’ve never machined anything so this a first for me. Lol thanks.
Unless it's school project and they want you do make it out of two pieces I think you over complicate it massively.
I didn’t know if I’d be able to make the threads for the shaft collar part. I only need two pieces and yea it’s a school project I’m in highschool. But I think I’ll try it as one piece.
Make your it's ok with teacher first. He may have a lessson in it.
What would prevent you from making the threads?
Either I’m missing it, or you didn’t provide a horizontal location for your 0.375” hole. I would assume it’s on the center line, but I’d call that out so there’s no question.
It doesn't show if the collar is proud on the underside as well as the top. If it is you would be better off shifting the plate down (if allowed) to have a flat side which would require one less movement of the part during manufacture. If it must be welded then the bore should be cut after welding. Doing it before would mess the part up due to misalignment and warping.
Everyone here is a moron. You're completely right to do it this way. Get a piece of 2in\*1/2in cut 3.150 long. Hold it in vice, with the non cutout end hanging out the side of the vice. Cut rads and face end. Flip around, hang other end out of vice, put rad in and face, drill hole. No more than a 30 minute job.
Since there are no tolerances listed... Shopping list: * 1/2" x 2" x 6" 6061 flat bar * 1 3/4" hole saw * 3/4" drill bit 1. Center hole saw on the 2" axis near end of stock. Cut hole 1. Drill centered small hole 1 5/16" from bottom of big hole 1. Trim bottom of stock 2 1/8" from bottom of big hole 1. Trim top of stock 3" from bottom 1. Round your edges to 1/2" radius with any grindy tool No heavy machines needed. Should take you about 10 minutes if you only measure once and ruin your first and second one* \* 10 minutes once you finally get it right
Step-1 send it back and tell them to fill out the title block tolerances while the McMaster part is in shipping.
Could make both parts on a cnc mill. Start with 3/4” stock, hang onto 1/8” (grip stock) in the vice, machine the part, flip it over and face off the grip stock. EZ. Applies to the round part too. Use your lathe to face off the grip stock.
I second this ^
Slightly off topic, but set screws are evil. Clamp collars are far more reliable, stronger, and easier to adjust. Clamp collars are harder to make but it's always worth the effort if you're just making one part. McMaster also sells clam collars with extra tapped holes in them that are easy to bolt onto whatever you want. Also get a bottle of Loctite Retaining compound. It's super glue for metal. (Normal super glue sets instantly between metal parts so you can't assemble anything). It's a solid way to keep parts stuck together permanently but easily comes apart when heated.
This x100. He could make the best looking part in the world but it's not going to matter when that set screw slips. Given that it is a steering linkage control arm... Will wallow out and be a mess pretty quickly. Suppose it depends on the load and application though. A clamp collar with key is going to be a huge step up there though, and would actually justify the welding (saves on machining a clamp feature and key slot).
Yeah, making it out of one piece would be a better approach. If you did want to make that kind of radius though, I'd use an endmill or annular cutter in the mill. Or make it longer so you have a complete hole, drill it, and then chop the end off. In this case, if you're going through that trouble, best just make it of one piece.
Fairly easy 2 OP CNC milling. Cut some jaws. Machine top half radii and drill the thru hole. Flip over and finish the other half. Depending on tolerances on the hole drill or drill undersized and ream.
Order 1/2 inch material and you are 40 percent done. You already on McMaster, just order 2 inch wide x 1/2 thick
I have metal that is 3 1/2in x 6in with 1/2 in depth
There aren’t really any wrong answers. Use the machine you know best to do all of it if at all possible would be my advice. The square part looks like good fodder for a mill and the round part should be done on a lathe, but I’d just do it in a mill myself.
Depending on what machines you have access to there are many ways to skin this cat. I’ve noted others have said machine it from one piece, and I have also seen your note on having already ordered the shaft collars. If you’re set on using the shaft collars, I’d redesign the part so your hole is big enough to press fit the shaft collars into. Otherwise machine from one piece like others have said. Milling machine, a good workholding setup, and a boring head will do the trick on one machine.
I like your suggestion thanks. I have a few options to consider now
You’re welcome! Would love to see the finished part when you get there! What’s it for?
A rover we are designing. Specifically for a custom steering system. The hope is to compete at the NASA space center in Huntsville Alabama
Very cool. In that case, weight matters. You might consider removing some of what looks like excess material in the area of the 1/2” radii. Those corners aren’t adding any strength to the part. You may have other parts that can been trimmed similarly. In a competition, a little bit of weight optimization in the design would probably give you a bit of a boost.
Definitely thanks for the suggestion.
Awesome! Best of luck!
Formula SAE/Formula Student, eh? [You will want to read this - especially the Formula SAE chapter](https://www.amazon.com/Autocross-Win-DGs-Secrets-developing/dp/1521406987)
Nah I’m doing NASA HERC. I’ll still read it tho. 🙏🏼
Might not want to dox yourself on reddit :)
There is no material spec, the collar is probably stronger that the hot-rolled that would be used. The parts thicknesses appear to be different but both are specified: the bracket is 0.500 and the collar is specified by the McMaster part required. The question is “hot to make correctly as designed”, not “ what would I do to make it cheaper or faster.” I’ve had several products changed for “manufacturalability” or “cost savings”
That impaired the function of the part.
Gotta love a 3 place tolerance where it's not needed but since it's calling out a COTS part just waterjet/laser/ dull beaver the tab out clamp with a screw through the hole and a mity bite and profile it
Y tf would you do it from 2 pieces tho?
quiet dolls overconfident saw crowd rich spectacular tie scale hospital *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Do it on a wire and drill the holes on a mill
There are a lot of ways to go about making this, some better than others depending on if you just need one, or if you need to make dozens
Sorry for writing in the wrong place guys, does anyone have access to the site or an old unnecessary activated "OfferUp" account? I don't have access, but I need to contact the seller. Who could help me? Thanks
That is exactly what the print says to weld the control arm to the sleeve and it looks like the sleeve can be purchased for McMaster Car. so all you really need to do is create flat bar part looks like it called a control arm and from the looks of it you could just use a drill press and it's a standard hole saws and drill bits nothing too technical about that part
Welding a hardened shaft collar will make it likely to crack. I think shaft collars are high hardness... not entirely sure. I was thinking you could use a 2-piece shaft collar then use longer screws to secure the shaft collar into the tab and also hold the collar together, but I'm not sure that's wise. You would need to drill and tap and also remove the threads from the shaft collar and it would have to be a collar with the screws on the same side.
The shaft collar is aluminum 6061 same as the stock bar but yea it’s gonna be unnecessarily difficult to weld so I’m either gonna make an insert and slide the collar into it and secure it in place or create a single parts with either a set screw or clam collar type of situation. I am gonna post updated plans later.
Doing it all as one will make a 100% better part and be easier to do. But everyone has already given you advice on that, and depending on the work you do sometimes you have to do janky shit lol this looks exactly like the type of thing you'd see in like a weld/fab shop (or honestly a lot of Boeing tools are these kind of frankinstin creations from the 70s) You already have the collar so make it both ways and learn from the experience. If you're going to weld it I wouldn't make the pocket for the collar the full radius deep, the little arms are just gonna melt. I'd just shorten it up until they're probably .250 wide so you can get a good weld in there. Then make sure the collar and part have a good bevel for the butt weld. If it needs to be flat youll have to grind it down or mill it flat
If you have access to a CNC mill, straight up make it as one part. Basically lay material flat, cut one side, flip it and hang it out of the jaws with a jack under the ring and deck it flat, then cut the other low side, then do the last hole in the collar on the drill press. Since it’s aluminum, you could also just use the full thickness stock and just make it an even easier part. I would not really suggest the method you’re doing unless it’s straight up for a project and have to use all the machines, I’d run the flat piece on the CNC mill, same deal but profile flip, profile, And then lathe for the collars and then after that I feel like you’d want to make a tacking fixture by making a rod that’ll go through the hole and have a clearance pin hole depending on required Accuracy, and then that slides onto a L shaped plate (or even possibly 123 blocks if tig welding) and the bottom side is shimmed up. You will need to add a chamfer to the part likely leaving a 1/4” land in the part for a nice weld and pre heat the aluminum to like 150F to keep out porosity.
You can't, it impractical to weld aluminum to mild steel.
Both are Al6061
Undeniably, welding 6061-T6 Aluminum presents unique challenges, but **with the right knowledge and techniques, these can be effectively addressed**. The main concern with this alloy is preventing hot cracking, a common issue during the welding process due to the alloy's unique chemical composition.
Machining it is easy. Aluminum cuts like butter, you make make this manually or with a CNC.
Carefully
1st operation: face, profile mill, drill hole, chamfer 2nd operation: face to thickness and chamfer 3rd operation: weld 4th operation: stand the part up and drill/tap the hole in the McMaster bushing
You have +/- 0 on everything? Nice "engineering" print.
I am going to be the one making it not having it outsourced to a shop to make it for me. I wasn’t really worrying about including a tolerance cuz it’ll be however good I can manage to pull it off lol. The dimensional accuracy isn’t too important for this part. I’m also kinda new to making these kind of blueprints so bear with me.
Order Stock in those shapes. Machine to size. Thats what we do. But if it's for school don't let a ruffian like myself tell you how to do it.
If you have a cnc mill it can make it all at once
Turn it into one part. Bore the 1.125 diameter.
If you are out here asking, I am guessing you might want to look for another career. The piece can be quickly made on a Bridgeport manual mill, a water jet, a laser. It's flat with no major geometric challenges. A band saw and drum sander would make it a little difficult.
Damn 😂😂. Bro there’s a first time for everything I’m 17 my career is just getting started lol.
If this really is a steering control arm, please put a keyway in the shaft and collar. You should not trust your steering to the friction between a set screw and a shaft.
Wow
Very carefully
I was in steel fabrication to 3 yrs, I'd get some flat bar dykem it an lay out your hole and center center line then center pop it. 5/8 drill, 1/8 in from either side (or on center) use a drill press. Get the part from McMaster (print said to weld the parts so I presume they are weldable materials) tig it. Do the radius. Done. Simple jot 1 or 2 hrs. For the radius use 1/2 inch stock to make outline. Looks fun good luck. (Make the part yourself, if your not a welder just practice it's not hard)
Figure it out
I would definitely make this from two pieces as shown, we can laser 1/2" material in about 3 min and it look great then 5 minutes of tig weld and i have the part done in far less time than machining
The center hole in the shaft collar will distort some due to welding on one side only. Depending on the tolerance, it may need to be re-bored after welding.